A  09«aft£r  Hi 

jKSty  ^^8ftc^ 


in 


WILLIAM  C.  ALLEN 


GIFT  OF 


If  "A  Quaker  Dairy  in  the  Orient "  proves  inter- 
esting please  tell  others.  Such  courtesy  on  the  part  of 
readers  will  extend  its  circulation  more  than  much  adver- 
tising. 

For  sale  at  $1.00  per  copy,  post-paid,  by 
WRIGHT-ELEY  Co.,  San  Jose,  California,  or  by  dealers. 


A  QUAKER  DIARY 

IN  THE  ORIENT 


BY  WILLIAM  C.  ALLEN 


PRESS  OF 

WRIGHT-ELEY  COMPANY 
SAN  JOSE,  CALIFORNIA 

1915 


COPYRIGHT,  1915 
BY  WILLIAM  C.  ALLEN 


T  shall  come  to  pass  that  in  the  place  where  it 
^  was  said  unto  them,  Ye  are  not  my  people,  it 
shall  be  said  unto  them,  Ye  are  the  sons  of  the  liv- 
ing God. 

Hosea,  i .10. 


CONTENTS 


PAGE 

I.    FIRST  DAYS  IN  JAPAN 10 

II.    WITH  PEACE  WORKERS  AND  PREMIER 19 

III.  THE  MITO  TRIP : 29 

IV.  TOKYO  AND  YOKOHAMA 33 

V.     LAST  DAYS  IN  JAPAN 40 

VI.     KOREA  47 

VII.     IN  PEKING 54 

VIII.     OVERTIME  IN  PEKING 62 

IX.    THE  HEART  OF  CHINA 68 

X.     SOUTHERN  CHINA  79 

XL     THE  PHILIPPINES  88 

XII.  SOUTHWARD  BOUND  ...  95 


LIST  OF  ILLUSTRATIONS 

(From  Photographs  by  the  Author.) 


Missionaries  on  S.  S.  Siberia Frontispiece 

PAGE 

In  Yokohama  Harbor 11 

Gym  Work  at  Friends'  School,  Tokyo 11 

Street  Scene  in  Tokyo 16 

Gateway  to  Public  School,  Kobe 16 

A  Typical  Temple  24 

A  Little  Garden  in  Japan 24 

Two  Little  Friends 30 

"Going  to  Meeting" 30 

A  "Little  Mother"  34 

"I  Go  a  Fishing" 34 

Village  Scene  near  Kyoto 42 

In  Zoological  Garden  of  Kyoto..... 42 

Theological  Students  at  Seoul 46 

One  of  the  Gates  of  Seoul 46 

"Temple  of  Heaven,"  Seoul 50 

Korean  Country  Life  and  Mourning  Hats 50 

Amber  Merchants  at  Seoul 54 

Chinese  Architecture 54 

Llama  Temple,  Peking 58 

Priests  at  Llama  Temple  at  Peking 58 

American  Board  Compound,  Peking 66 

One  of  the  Many  Towers  of  Peking 66 

A  Peking  Street  Barber : 74 

Boat  Life  in  Canton 74 

A  "Slipper  Boat"  at  Canton 82 

On  the  Pasig  River  at  Manila 82 

A  Nipa  House  in  the  Philippines 90 

In  Old  Manila  : 90 

In  the  Heart  of  Manila 98 

One  of  the  Old  Gates  of  Manila....  98 


A  FTER  leaving  Asia  my  thought  was  this: 
•*  *•  Nineteen    centuries    ago    Jesus    Christ    with 
humble   mien   visited    the    people   of   Asia.      They 
nailed  him  to  a  tree  and  thought  they  had  destroyed 
him. 

Now  the  still-living  Christ  triumphantly  returns  to 
Asia.  Her  strong  men  begin  to  feel  that  the  regener- 
ation of  their  continent  must  be  found  in  him. 

They  do  not  want  a  vaguely-understood  Christ — 
they  need  the  real  Christ. 

Can  we  not  help  them? 


FOREWORD. 

ARLY  in  the  year  1914  I  suddenly  became  impressed  with  the  be- 
lief that  it  was  the  Divine  will  that  I  should  visit  the  Far  East, 
^^  etc.  Yielding  to  this  impulse  I  secured  the  credentials  which 
are  granted  to  its  ministers  by  the  Society  of  Friends — often  called 
Quakers — for  religious  work  abroad.  My  friend  of  many  years,  Wil- 
liam B.  Harvey,  an  elder  in  the  same  denomination,  accompanied  me. 
My  devoted  wife  formed  the  third  and  ever  optimistic  and  helpful 
member  of  the  party. 

Long  after  we  had  settled  on  a  date  for  sailing,  the  great  war  broke 
out.  Whilst  many  of  our  friends  naturally  felt  that  conditions  were 
inopportune,  and  personally  dangerous  for  such  work,  my  own  impres- 
sion was  that  it  was  right  to  leave  America  at  the  time  originally  ex- 
pected. We  had  to  proceed  on  faith.  Events  proved  that  the  time 
for  participating  in  the  particular  service  into  which,  from  country  to 
country,  we  were  led,  was  both  opportune  and  providential. 

Before  leaving  America,  numerous  church  leaders  of  different  de- 
nominations on  the  Pacific  Coast  became  interested  in  the  prospective 
trip,  and  took  occasion  to  utilize  it  on  behalf  of  the  International  Peace 
movement  with  which  I  had  for  a  number  of  years  been  associated  with 
them.  The  many  letters  of  introduction  granted  me  by  these  brethren, 
and  other  men  well  known  in  America  and  the  Orient,  assisted  in  many 
ways.  I  am  glad  to  here  acknowledge  their  sympathy  and  help. 

Up  to  the  time  of  our  departure  I  could  not  see  or  tell  the  nature  of 
the  anticipated  work.  Much  of  it  developed  into  efforts  to  neutralize 
the  unhappy  attempts  made  on  the  part  of  some  to  sow  discord  between 
America  and  Japan.  This  work  seemed  to  be  fruitful  and  has  enlarged 
the  way  for  further  action  by  Christian  organizations  in  the  same  di- 
rection. 

A  large  part  of  our  labor  proved  to  be  on  gospel  lines  according  to 
the  simple  usage  of  conservative  Friends.  Hence,  when  speaking  of 
worship,  the  repeated  references  to  times  of  silent  prayer  or  waiting 
upon  God.  I  have  kept  to  the  old  Quaker  way  of  speaking  of  dates  in 
numerical  fashion.  Thus  "Ninth  month"  is  September,  "First  month" 
is  January,  and  so  on.  "First  day"  is  Sunday,  etc. 

This  rather  desultory  diary  was  not,  as  may  easily  be  seen,  origi- 
nally intended  for  other  eyes  than  my  own.  It  claims  no  literary 
merit.  It  may  interest  some  who  are  not  attracted  to  philosophical 
discourses  on  internationalism.  If  its  few  and  simple  pages  can  en- 
courage any  to  uphold  the  noble  band  of  Christian  workers  in  the 
Orient,  or  to  follow  the  things  that  make  for  righteousness  and  peace, 
I  shall  be  glad. 

WILLIAM  C.  ALLEN. 
San  Jose,  California. 


I. 

FIRST  DAYS  IN  JAPAN. 

Ninth  Month  23,  1914. 

On  the  fifth  of  ninth  month,  1914,  accompanied  by  my  wife 
and  William  B.  Harvey,  I  left  San  Francisco  for  Yokohoma. 
Esther  A.  Balderson,  of  the  Friends'  Tokyo  Mission,  was  also 
with  us.  Our  voyage  was  delightful  in  most  respects.  I  be- 
lieve that  there  were  only  three  tourists  on  board,  and  these 
were  not  of  the  empty-headed  variety.  The  company  of 
about  fifty  missionaries  made  a  unique  experience  in  travel- 
ing. Some  of  them  were  able  to  assist  us  with  needed  infor- 
mation with  respect  to  China,  in  event  of  our  visiting  that 
country. 

I  had  a  little  public  work  on  the  ship.  As  the  second  First- 
day  of  the  voyage  approached  I  felt  as  if  some  opportunity  to 
address  my  fellow-passengers  was  required,  but  on  inquiry 
of  the  purser  ascertained  that  an  Episcopal  service  was  to  be 
read  by  a  clergyman  of  that  denomination.  The  preceding 
evening,  however,  he  and  another  minister  asked  me  to  speak 
at  the  contemplated  service.  As  this  selection  out  of  the 
many  ministers  aboard  seemed  to  open  the  way,  I  accepted 
the  invitation.  What  I  said  was  largely  based  on  thought 
that  developed  when  once  on  my  feet,  and,  whilst  not  of  a 
nature  to  suit  those  who  desire  an  easy  Christian  life,  it 
seemed  acceptable  to  not  a  few  of  the  audience  present. 

We  arrived  at  Gilbert  Bowies'  Home  at  the  Friends'  Mis- 
sion, Tokyo,  yesterday  afternoon,  and  received  a  warm  wel- 
come. Two  meetings  were  held  to-day  in  his  parlor,  both  for 
the  purpose  of  extending  a  welcome  to  us,  and  for  formulat- 
ing tentative  plans  as  to  work  in  this  country. 

Ninth  Month  24. 

Accompanied  by  Gilbert  Bowles  on  this  morning  we  had 
an  interview  with  Baron  Sakatani,  who  had  expressed  a  de- 
sire to  meet  with  me.  He  is  ex-Minister  of  Finance  of  Japan 


12  A  QUAKER  DIARY  IN  THE  ORIENT. 

and  now  Mayor  of  Tokyo.  I  explained  to  him  the  objects  of 
The  Peace  Committee  of  the  Pacific  Coast  Churches,  of  which 
I  am  secretary,  and  the  kindly  feelings  of  the  members  of 
the  Christian  Churches  in  America  toward  Japan,  also  pre- 
senting to  him  a  copy  of  the  address  to  the  people  of  Japan 
from  the  Committee.  The  conversation  resulted  in  arrang- 
ing to  see  other  prominent  Japanese  with  the  view  of  secur- 
ing as  wide  a  dissemination  of  the  address  as  possible. 

Ninth  Month  25. 

We  to-day  called  on  Dr.  Soyeda,  ex- Vice  Minister  of  Fi- 
nance of  the  Empire.  He  impressed  me  as  a  very  able  and 
sincere  man.  I  presented  my  letter  of  introduction,  ad- 
dressed to  him,  and  he  made  valuable  suggestions  as  to  the 
prosecution  of  the  peace  embassy  from  the  Coast  churches. 
He  lives  in  a  beautiful  house  with  all  indications  of  wealth 
and  service.  It  seems  odd  in  Japan  to  be  met  at  the  doors 
by  maids  who  fall  prostrate  to  the  earth,  with  forehead  to 
the  floor,  before  speaking  to  the  visitor.  Our  host  was  so 
courteous,  and  so  transparently  interested  in  the  dissemina- 
tion of  the  spirit  of  human  brotherhood  that  it  was  difficult 
to  imagine  him  as  not  being  a  genuine  Christian. 

At  one  end  of  the  reception  room  of  one  of  Japan's  leading 
statesmen  where  we  called  to-day  was  a  wide  recess,  and  in 
it  a  large  image  of  Buddha.  It  looked  weird  in  its  home-like 
surroundings.  Its  owner  is  a  most  cultured  and  agreeable 
gentleman. 

Another  call  on  Dr.  Kozaki,  the  President  of  the  Federated 
Christian  Churches  of  Japan,  followed.  His  Christian  spirit 
was  keenly  manifested,  my  letter  presented,  and  his  assist- 
ance secured.  Then  we  went  to  see  good  Dr.  S.  Ibuka, 
President  of  the  Presbyterian  College  of  Tokyo.  My  letter 
for  him  was  delivered  and  he  promised  all  his  influence  to 
further  our  labors  in  Japan. 

We  are  compelled  to  proceed  slowly  in  making  these  visits. 
The  distances  are  great  in  Tokyo — and  communication  is 
generally  by  rickshaws.  Our  little  men  pull  us  up  and  down 
hill,  through  the  slippery  and  often  muddy  streets.  They 
almost  double  up  going  up  hill,  and  their  strength  in  their 
lower  limbs,  which  are  splendidly  developed,  is  amazing. 


^a|^^^™^-j3^^ 

™    Ml 


N  YOKOHAMA  HARBOR. 


GYM  WORK  AT  FRIENDS'  SCHOOL,  TOKYO. 


FIRST  DAYS  IN  JAPAN.  13 

Their  occupation  is  a  hard  one,  yet  the  rickshaw  men  always 
look  happy. 

If  any  one  desires  to  "get  close  to  the  people,"  all  he  has  to 
do  is  to  take  a  Tokyo  tram-car.  They  are  generally  crowded 
with  a  swaying  mass  of  middle-class  and  poorer  folk,  old  and 
young,  students  in  kimonos,  and  sometimes  women  nursing 
their  babies.  Often  some  of  the  people  will  remove  their 
geta  (wooden  shoes),  leaving  them  on  the  floor,  and  in  bare 
feet  sit  on  their  heels  on  the  seats  of  the  car.  The  hand- 
straps  that  hang  down  from  the  car  roofs  dangle  in  front  of 
the  faces  of  the  taller  white  passengers.  The  floors  are 
sanded  and  mostly  kept  wet.  They  are  not  altogether  com- 
fortable. But  the  Japanese  personal  cleanliness,  and  their 
usually  innate  politeness,  tend  to  lubricate  the  situation  with 
respect  to  the  foreigner's  feelings.  The  rickshaws,  drawn 
by  willing  and  smiling  little  men  all  over  the  city,  are  much 
more  to  my  liking. 

Ninth  Month  26. 

This  morning  I  was  able  to  make  my  introduction  the  basis 
of  an  interesting  interview  with  the  United  States  Ambas- 
sador to  Japan.  He  expressed  himself  frankly  to  us.  The 
influences  to  promote  friction  between  the  governments  of 
the  United  States  and  Japan  are  making  much  anxious  work 
for  the  officials  of  the  two  governments. 

A  large  part  of  the  afternoon  was  consumed  in  an  appoint- 
ment to  see  Baron  Shibusawa,  with  whom  we  conversed 
about  one  hour.  He  is  esteemed  the  greatest  business  man 
of  Japan  and  has  been  a  consistent  worker  on  behalf  of  in- 
ternational peace.  He  expressed  himself  desirous  of  helping 
me  in  my  efforts  and  made  some  useful  suggestions.  But  he 
at  the  same  time  expressed  the  grief  that  some  prominent 
Japanese  feel  at  what  they  apprehend  is  the  tendency  in 
America  for  the  Government  at  Washington  and  in  Califor- 
nia to  yield  to  the  anti-Japanese  element  in  the  United 
States.  He  asked,  in  effect,  what  I  had  anticipated  would  be 
a  natural  inquiry  in  Japan,  "If  many  of  your  good  citizens 
are  opposed  to  the  action  of  your  legislative  body  and 
send  us  your  address,  how  is  it  that  our  Japanese  citizens  in 
California  are  so  unfairly  discriminated  against?"  To  this 


14  A  QUAKER  DIARY  IN  THE  ORIENT. 

I  can  answer  that  in  a  democracy  the  position  of  citizens  ani- 
mated by  Christian  principle  is  not  always  such  as  they 
would  desire,  and  that  the  address  can  at  least  explain  their 
feelings.  It  can  reveal  that  they  desire  to  show  a  sympa- 
thetic Christian  attitude  toward  the  people  of  Japan,  which 
the  latter  should  certainly  appreciate,  and  also  exhibits  the 
fact  that  public  sentiment  on  the  Pacific  Coast  is  honestly 
somewhat  divided  with  respect  to  what  we  call  the  "Japa- 
nese question." 

In  all  these  interviews  we  have  been  accompanied  by  our 
invaluable  helper,  Gilbert  Bowles,  whose  sincere  labor  on  be- 
half of  good  relations  between  his  native  and  adopted  coun- 
tries is  recognized  by  many. 

Baron  Shibusawa  is  said  to  have  recently  confessed  at  a 
public  dinner,  that  he  was  so  concerned  regarding  the  deteri- 
oration of  morals  in  Japan  as  to  have  two  men  meet  with  him 
regularly  at  10  o'clock  in  evenings,  after  business  cares  were 
over,  to  read  and  instruct  him  out  of  the  Bible. 

First  Day,  Ninth  Month  26. 

A  delightful  meeting  for  worship  was  attended  by  us  in 
the  meeting-house  of  the  Friends'  Mission  in  Tokyo.  The 
spirit  of  worship  and  the  Divine  Spirit  Himself  was  in  our 
midst.  It  was  held  just  as  in  Philadelphia,  excepting  that  a 
hymn  was  sung  near  the  close. 

Tenth  Month  10. 

On  the  3rd  inst.  we  went  to  Kobe.  This  was  a  long  day's 
railway  journey  through  a  populous  and  beautiful  country. 
The  following  being  First-day,  we  attended  the  regular  union 
service  for  the  English-speaking  people  of  Kobe.  The  lat- 
ter half  of  the  service  was  given  over  to  us,  to  silent  waiting 
on  God,  and  speaking  by  me.  The  congregation  was  a  sub- 
stantial group,  and  at  the  close  of  the  service  a  fine-looking 
old  gentleman  in  clerical  garb,  Dr.  J.  C.  C.  Newton,  sought 
us  out  and  offered  to  help  all  he  could,  particularly  with  re- 
spect to  the  divinity  school  and  Christian  college  work  of  the 
city.  Others  tendered  their  sympathy  and  help. 

The  following  morning,  per  arrangement,  we  attended  the 
annual  conference  of  the  Congregational  Churches  of  Japan. 
I  addressed  them  on  the  Christian  attitude  toward  peace. 


FIRST  DAYS  IN  JAPAN.  15 

It  seemed  favorably  received.  Acquaintances  formed  at  this 
conference  promised  to  aid  us  in  the  development  of  our_an- 
ticipated  labor  in  Japan. 

On  Third-day  we  visited  the  Lambuth  Bible  Training 
School  for  young  women.  It  was  a  fine  group  of  women  we 
met  here,  pledged  as  they  are  to  Christian  work,  and  prepar- 
ing therefor  in  their  native  land.  I  endeavored  to  encour- 
age them  to  reliance  on  the  operation  of  the  Spirit  of  God  in 
their  own  hearts  and  in  the  hearts  of  others  in  their  future 
work.  In  the  afternoon  we  attended  a  called  meeting  at 
the  M.  E.  South  College,  to  be  held  in  the  interests  of  in- 
ternational peace.  But  it  really  developed  into  a  religious 
meeting  with  its  solemn  periods  of  silence  accompanied  by 
the  ministry  I  offered.  I  often  wish  that  Christians  more 
generally  knew  the  spiritual  value  of  "waiting  upon  God." 
Many  Japanese  divinity  students  were  present  and  a  number 
of  the  faculty.  At  the  close  of  the  meeting  the  young  Pres- 
ident of  the  College  Y.  M.  C.  A.  informed  us  that  he  intended 
to  start  a  peace  society. 

Fourth-day  noon  found  us  in  the  comfortable  home  of 
George  Gleason,  whose  wife  had  been  a  Friend.  That  eve- 
ning some  550  young  men  welcomed  me  at  a  meeting  in  the 
Y.  M.  C.  A.  at  Osaka.  Here  the  peace  propaganda  was  not 
treated  particularly  from  the  Christian  viewpoint,  yet 
seemed  to  deeply  impress  the  Japanese  audience,  which  was 
largely  made  up  of  earnest  non-Christians.  Even  in  this 
somewhat  indirect  way  can  the  vast  kingdom  of  our  Christ 
be  extended. 

The  next  morning  we  were  at  the  assembly  of  the  Kobe 
College  for  women.  It  was  a  season  in  which  the  divine 
presence  was  manifested.  Some  250  young  Japanese  women, 
mostly  non-Christians,  listened  attentively  to  a  gospel  mes- 
sage; and  two  periods  of  "living  silence"  crowned  the  occa- 
sion and  were  sanctioned  by  God  as  times  of  acceptable 
prayer. 

That  evening  after  tea  at  S.  F.  Gutelius'  home,  a  meeting 
after  the  old-time  manner  of  Friends  was  held  in  his  parlor. 
The  company  was  made  up  of  missionaries.  W.  B.  H.  and  I 
had  words  of  encouragment  for  them  during  a  solemn  hour 


16  A  QUAKER  DIARY  IN  THE  ORIENT. 

of  worship  and  praise.  The  following  day  was  consumed  in 
the  ride  of  about  375  miles  back  to  Tokyo. 

I  find  that  some  American  and  English  residents  of  Japan 
are  severe  on  the  Japanese  Christians.  They  claim  that  the 
latter  are  not  reliable,  and  that  they  will  not  have  them  in 
their  employ.  Here  is  a  typical  presentation  of  their  case. 
An  American  gentleman  connected  with  a  large  business  es- 
tablishment told  me  that  he  recently  met  a  Japanese  whose 
life  he  knew  to  be  unsatisfactory,  and  was  astonished  to 
behold  him  clad  in  a  clerical  garb.  He  asked  the  reason. 
"Well,"  was  the  reply,  "times  are  hard,  and  I  thought  I 
might  as  well  preach  the  gospel  as  do  anything  else,  and  the 
pay  is  not  bad."  My  informant  said,  "You  know  you  don't 
believe  what  you  preach."  The  reply  was,  "Yes,  that  is 
so,  but  even  if  I  do  not  believe  what  I  say,  I  can  get  others 
to  believe  it."  Objections  to  the  native  Christians  in  busi- 
ness circles  may  at  times  have  some  foundation ;  but  it  must 
be  remembered  that  the  objectors  may  not  always  them- 
selves live  religious  lives,  and  may  be  disposed  to  have  prej- 
udices regarding  the  missionaries.  The  latter  deny  adverse 
statements  about  their  converts  and  the  native  Christians, 
and  say  that  those  who  criticise  them  do  not  know  whereof 
they  speak.  I  think  that  there  are  many  splendid  expo- 
nents of  the  religion  of  Jesus  in  Japan,  and  that  contrary 
statements  are  mostly  incorrect. 

During  this  trip  to  Kobe  we  were  much  indebted  to  the 
following  persons  for  kindness  rendered,  besides  those  men- 
tioned above:  Dr.  H.  W.  Meyers,  missionary  of  the  Metho- 
dist Episcopal  Church  South;  President  Y.  Yoshioka  of  M. 
E.  South  College,  and  others. 

Tenth  Month  10. 

To-day  we  attended  the  annual  meeting  or  Synod  of  the 
Presbyterians  of  Japan,  held  in  Tokyo.  It  was  my  privilege 
to  address  some  150  men,  mostly  ministers,  on  the  attitude 
of  the  churches  to  the  question  of  international  peace.  I 
suggested  their  co-operation  with  the  churches  of  the  United 
States  in  order  to  assist  in  bringing  about  a  more  kindly 
spirit  between  their  country  and  my  own,  presenting  the  re- 
sponsibility of  the  professors  of  Jesus  Christ,  both  in  their 


STREET  SCENE  IN  TOKYO. 


GATEWAY  TO  PUBLIC  SCHOOL,  KOBE. 


FIRST  DAYS  IN  JAPAN.  17 

country  and  in  my  own,  with  respect  to  this  question.  It  is 
likely  that,  as  I  suggested,  they  will  inaugurate  a  movement 
among  the  Federated  Native  Churches  of  Japan  to  get  closer 
to  our  Federal  Council  in  America.  I  think  good  will  result ; 
and  the  Japanese  churches  may  thereby  have  their  con- 
science quickened  regarding  a  testimony  on  behalf  of  peace, 
and  adverse  to  war. 

Tenth  Month  11. 

At  this  (First-day)  meeting  in  Tokyo  I  spoke  on  "For  Me 
to  Live  Is  Christ." 

Shrines  and  temples  are  everywhere  in  this  country,  and 
are  resorted  to  by  men  and  women  hoping  for  at  least  ma- 
terial rewards  as  a  result  of  prayer  to  the  local  or  better- 
known  gods.  We  went  into  some  of  the  temples  of  Kobe, 
where  the  priests  were  very  polite  and  showed  us  round. 
One  temple  so  visited  had  beautiful  exterior  and  interior 
carvings ;  the  floors  were  covered  with  soft  mattings ;  before 
an  inner  shrine  were  baskets  containing  offerings  of  fruits, 
etc.,  and  in  the  rear  was  a  pretty  little  garden  with  a  foun- 
tain playing.  Some  men  in  this  temple  were  having  tea  and 
politely  responded  with  bows  to  our  English  salutations.  It 
does  not  seem  in  Japan  necessary  to  take  off  hats  in  their 
temples  as  is  expected  in  most  Christian  places  of  worship. 

If  we  stand  long  enough  at  one  of  the  outer  shrines  of 
these  temples,  very  likely  a  woman  will  approach,  kneel  a 
while  in  silent  prayer,  then  arise,  deposit  some  money  in  a 
box,  draw  a  paper  and  go  away.  This  is  shrine  worship. 
The  other  day  we  saw  a  congregation  of  Shrintoists  worship- 
ing. They  sat  on  their  heels  on  the  floor  of  a  really  very 
pretty  little  temple,  and  chanted,  somewhat  like  the  chants 
the  Indians  of  America  engage  in  when  dancing.  At  times 
the  whole  congregation  would  prostrate  their  foreheads  to 
the  ground.  The  exercises  were  terminated  by  a  period  of 
silence  of  several  minutes'  duration,  after  which  all  clapped 
their  hands  and  arose.  The  services  were  thus  ended. 

The  streets  of  the  cities  of  Japan  are  thronged  with  work- 
ers, toiling  under  burdens  that  could  not  be  tolerated  in 
America.  Men  and  boys  with  almost  superhuman  effort 
pull  loads  many  times  their  own  weight  up  the  hill  in  front 


18  A  QUAKER  DIARY  IN  THE  ORIENT. 

of  the  mission;  and  as  they  inch  by  inch  gain  ground  one 
wonders  that  they  do  not  burst  a  blood  vessel  in  doing  so. 
The  few  horses  in  Tokyo  drag  as  much  as  two  or  three  horses 
would  pull  in  America.  The  little  women  and  many  "little 
mothers"  haul  round  the  streets,  on  their  backs,  babies  or 
young  children  which  probably  weigh  as  much  as  one-third 
of  their  own  bodies.  Few  men  or  women  wear  western  foot- 
gear. Their  bare  feet  rest  almost  unrestricted  on  wooden 
sandels  that  often  are  supported  underneath  by  two  cross 
pieces  of  wood,  and  on  this  apparently  unsteady  foundation, 
men,  women,  and  children  walk  and  run  through  the  sprin- 
kled streets.  The  Japanese  as  a  race  have  beautiful  feet. 


II. 

WITH  PEACE  WORKERS  AND  PREMIER. 

Tenth  Month  14. 

Last  evening  a  dinner  was  tendered  W.  B.  H.  and  me  at 
the  Japan  Club,  Tokyo,  on  account  of  the  address  which  I 
have  brought  from  the  Interdenominational  Peace  Commit- 
tee of  Pacific  Coast  Churches,  with  the  hope  that  it  would 
tend  to  forward  international  regard  and  conciliation.  The 
event  was  made  the  opportunity  to  advertise  the  address 
through  the  newspapers  of  Japan.  Numerous  men  promi- 
nent in  Japanese  political,  financial  and  educational  matters 
were  present.  I  felt  most  seriously  my  need  of  Divine  guid- 
ance as  I  arose  to  address  those  present;  and  I  feel  that  so 
far  I  have  been  favored  to  not  harm,  but  help,  the  cause  of 
my  Lord  in  private  and  public  labor  on  behalf  of  interna- 
tional comity  and  peace.  May  the  same  much-needed  divine 
assistance  be  granted  from  place  to  place ! 

A  good  many  of  the  men  present  were  non-Christians,  yet 
a  number  of  these  promised  their  aid  to  secure  co-opera- 
tion of  the  Japanese  Christian  churches  with  the  Federal 
Council  of  Churches  in  America,  which  scheme  I  suggested, 
and  which  I  have  been  working  on  of  late.  Some  of  these 
men,  with  the  Christians  present,  can  do  much  on  this  line. 
They  include  Baron  Sakatani,  Mayor  of  Tokyo;  Baron  Shi- 
buwasa,  the  greatest  business  man  of  Japan ;  Dr.  Seyoda,  ex- 
Vice-Minister  of  Finance;  President  Nakano,  of  the  Tokyo 
Chamber  of  Commerce,  etc.,  all  non-Christians,  but  who  have 
a  great  respect  therefor.  I  herewith  introduce  a  newspaper 
report  of  this  meeting : 

NO  ANTI-JAPANESE  FEELING  NOW  IN  U.  S.  A. 

Representative  of  Pacific  Coast  Churches  Brings  Greetings 

to  Japan. 

TO  THE  PEOPLE  OF  JAPAN, 

Greeting : 

The  Interdenominational  Peace  Committee  of  the  Pacific 
Coast  Churches  of  the  United  States,  representing  many  of 


20  A  QUAKER  DIARY  IN  THE  ORIENT. 

the  Christian  organizations  on  the  Pacific  Coast  of  the  Unit- 
ed States  of  America,  desires  through  the  person  of  its  au- 
thorized representative,  the  bearer,  Mr.  Wm.  C.  Allen,  a  min- 
ister of  religion,  of  San  Jose,  California,  to  send  our  heart- 
iest Greetings  to  the  People  of  Japan. 

We  are  thankful  for  our  traditional  friendship  and  for  the 
Commercial  and  International  Ties  that  bind  us  together  as 
two  Nations.  We  rejoice  to  know  of  the  prosperity  of  your 
great  country.  We  pray  God  that  His  peace  may  rule  more 
and  more  in  your  hearts  and  in  our  own.  We  sincerely  hope 
and  trust  that  neither  you  nor  we  shall  be  in  the  least  wrong- 
ly influenced  by  the  efforts  sometimes  made  to  sow  discord 
between  us.  We  hope  that  all  possible  may  be  done,  by 
means  of  treaties  of  arbitration  and  in  every  other  way  to 
hasten  the  era  of  good-will,  and  peace  among  the  nations. 

As  Christians  and  as  believers  in  the  religion  founded  on 
Divine  Love,  we  desire  to  do  all  we  can  to  draw  your  country 
and  ours  closer  together  in  the  feelings  of  mutual  friendship, 
sympathy  and  good-will,  until  together  we  may  more  and 
more  help  forward  Universal  Peace. 
Respectfully  submitted, 

ROBERT  DOLLAR,  President. 

HARVEY  HUGO  GUY,  Secretary  pro  tern. 

The  greeting  to  the  Japanese  nation  printed  above  was 
read  at  a  dinner  given  in  the  Japan  Club  yesterday  evening 
to  Mr.  William  C.  Allen,  of  San  Jose,  President  of  the  North- 
ern California  Peace  Society.  The  dinner  was  promoted  by 
Baron  Sakatani,  Baron  Shibusawa,  Mr.  Nakano,  Dr.  Soyeda, 
and  others. 

Mr.  Allen,  who  is  accompanied  by  Mr.  William  B.  Harvey, 
of  Westtown,  near  Philadelphia,  arrived  in  Japan  on  Septem- 
ber 22  as  the  Secretary  and  representative  of  the  Pacific 
Coast  Churches.  His  introductions  are  from  Secretary  of 
State  Bryan,  the  Japanese  Consul  General,  Mr.  Y.  Numano, 
at  San  Francisco,  and  Captain  Robert  Dollar. 

Since  his  arrival  in  Japan  Mr.  Allen  and  Mr.  Harvey  have 
had  interviews  with  leading  Japanese  and  Americans,  and 
Mr.  Allen  has  addressed  the  Annual  Conferences  of  the  Con- 
gregational and  Presbyterian  Churches  of  Japan.  The  Peace 
Committee  of  the  Pacific  Coast  is  a  representative  and  in- 
fluential body,  and  numbers  leading  men  of  nearly  all  the 
churches  among  its  active  supporters. 

Mr.  Allen,  after  reading  the  greeting  to  the  people  of  Ja- 
pan, addressed  the  gathering  as  follows: 

It  will  be  observed  that  this  greeting  from  the  Peace  Com- 
mittee of  the  Pacific  Coast  Churches  can  not  attempt  to  sug- 


WITH  PEACE  WORKERS  AND  PREMIER.  21 

gest  any  solution  of  the  problems  that  grow  out  of  the  rela- 
tions of  the  United  States  and  Japan.  This  is  not  the  object 
of  the  letter.  What  we  can  do  is  to  help  to  develop  a  spirit 
of  sympathy  and  human  brotherhood  between  you  and  our- 
selves. We  honestly  desire  to  reveal  what  all  acknowledge 
should  be  the  Christian  attitude,  and  to  that  extent  can  aid 
officials.  We  want  to  assist  in  laying  a  foundation  of  mu- 
tual respect  and  love  for  one  another.  Then  the  details  of 
international  intercourse  and  of  diplomatic  and  political  ar- 
rangements can  be  more  satisfactorily  influenced  and  may 
more  safely  be  left  to  take  care  of  themselves.  If  the  root  is 
good,  the  fruit  will  also  be  good. 

I  have  no  apology  to  make  for  the  inconsistent  attitude  of 
some  so-called  Christians.  Many  of  our  Christian  people 
sincerely  regret  some  of  the  conditions  that  exist.  I  can 
state  that  our  church  leaders  in  America  are  more  and  more 
desiring  that  our  international  policies  conform  to  the  teach- 
ings of  Jesus  Christ.  Our  people  at  large  are  more  and  more 
realizing  that,  racial  prejudices,  or  any  kind  of  animosities, 
damage  the  whole  human  family.  I  am  told  that  the  gra- 
cious spirit  of  kindliness  and  good-will  in  your  country  will 
reach  across  the  sea  and  join  us  in  the  development  of  a  sim- 
ilar spirit  in  America.  We  must  aid  one  another. 

Do  not  let  us  accentuate  the  dissimilarities  of  the  two  peo- 
ples. It  may  not  be  desirable  that  we  should  all  be  alike. 
On  the  contrary,  let  us  never  fail  to  emphasize  the  very 
many  things  that  we  hold  in  common.  These  are  much  more 
numerous.  Let  us  of  Japan  and  America  always  emphasize 
our  common  heritage  of  those  grand  ideals  which  make  for 
the  uplift  of  humanity  and  the  victories  of  peace.  Let  us 
recollect  that  we  all  are  the  much-loved  children  of  the  Great 
Creator  of  the  Universe. 

The  decision  of  Japan  to  participate  in  the  great  exposi- 
tion at  San  Francisco  has  had  a  most  beneficial  effect  upon 
the  attitude  of  California  toward  Japan  and  is  appreciated 
on  our  side  of  the  Pacific  Ocean.  It  will  help  us  to  become 
better  acquainted  with  each  other. 

Innuendos  are  in  some  quarters  made  as  to  the  reality  of 
our  friendship  for  you,  often  accompanied  by  wrong  or 
garbled  statements.  How  are  your  newspapers  thus  misin- 
formed ?  Where  do  these  reports  originate  ?  Many  of  these 
statements  regarding  the  attitude  of  America  are  incorrect. 
I  would  like  to  state  as  my  personal  observation  that  while 
some  of  the  newspapers  in  America,  as  in  your  land,  at 
times  persist  in  playing  with  fire,  it  has  been  a  long  time 
since  I  have  read  an  unkindly  or  suspicious  word  about  Ja- 
pan. Thus  in  San  Francisco,  near  which  city  I  reside,  I 


22  A  QUAKER  DIARY  IN  THE  ORIENT. 

have  not  for  a  long  time  seen  a  newspaper  item  containing 
one  word  of  discourtesy  toward  Japan. 

When  men  really  try  to  live  in  concord  with  one  another 
they  generally  succeed.  The  splendid  record  of  arbitrations 
of  international  disputes  since  the  year  1800  proves  this.  But 
under  the  circumstances  that  I  address  you  I  naturally  con- 
sider the  ideal  Christian  viewpoint.  Do  not  let  us  forget 
that  the  idealist  always  leads  the  world.  One  small  Chris- 
tian denomination  has  for  250  years  declared  that  war  and 
its  spirit  is  antagonistic  to  the  spirit  of  the  teachings  of 
Jesus,  and  that  human  strife  has  therefore  retarded  human 
progress.  The  denomination  has  through  all  these  years  not 
permitted  its  members  to  take  up  arms.  Yet  historians  who 
have  investigated  its  career  have  admitted  that  by  so  doing 
it  has  done  more  to  conserve  civilization  and  develop  the 
holiest  ideals  of  men,  on  which  civilization  is  founded,  than 
if  it  had  fought  for  its  principles  with  sword  and  gun.  Ideals 
are  stronger  than  force.  Many  other  people  in  the  other 
sects  of  Christianity  have  of  recent  years  been  adopting  the 
same  views.  And  I  know  that  you,  our  friends  of  Japan, 
without  reference  to  your  religious  faiths,  will  desire  to  join 
us  in  what  we  all  recognize  as  a  noble  aspiration  calculated 
to  increase  the  happiness  of  men. 

In  America  the  advocates  of  peace  are  more  eagerly  lis- 
tened' to  than  ever  before.  Jingoism  is  regarded  as  a  sign  of 
weakness  as  we  advance  in  material  and  intellectual  things. 
The  prophecies  of  the  peace  people  that  frightful  financial 
and  moral  disaster  would  develop  from  the  outbreak  of  war 
among  civilized  peoples  has  recently  been  pitifully  realized. 
Arguments  against  war  are  being  respectfully  referred  to  as 
absolutely  correct  by  statesmen  and  men  of  affairs.  The 
man  who  stands  for  international  repose  is  acknowledged  as 
a  benefactor  of  the  race  and  as  an  exponent  of  the  loftiest 
patriotism.  No  doubt  but  that  a  similar  regard  for  the  ad- 
vocates of  international  amity  is  also  increasing  in  Japan. 

This  greeting  I  bring  from  our  committee  speaks  for  itself 
in  so  far  that  it  will  show  that  a  diversity  of  opinion  exists 
in  California  and  that  the  Christian  churches  in  particular 
are  opposed  to  unhappy  efforts  to  sow  discord  between  the 
two  nations.  In  spite  of  discouraging  conditions  abroad,  an 
increasing  number  within  our  churches  desire  to  show  that 
they  want  to  stand  by  the  teachings  of  Jesus  Christ.  We 
call  Him  the  Prince  of  Peace.  Will  you  not  continue  to  help 
us  toward  the  consummation  of  international  tranquility  ? 

Finally,  do  we  any  of  us  count  the  lust  of  power  or  money 
or  vengeance  as  among  the  better  things  of  life?  Do  not 
the  paths  of  peace  lead  toward  sound  business  and  national 


WITH  PEACE  WORKERS  AND  PREMIER.  23 

morality  and  toward  true  national  grandeur?  Let  us  then 
try  to  cultivate  within  our  own  hearts  the  noble  sentiments 
of  peace.  Let  us  destroy  within  our  own  selves  the  passions 
which  constitute  the  root  from  which  most  wars  spring. 
I  often  ask  my  own  people  to  do  this.  I  often  beg  of  them 
as  I  venture  to  suggest  to-night,  that  we  all  endeavor  to  live 
in  that  spirit  of  brotherliness  and  love  which  does  away  with 
international  suspicions  and  prejudices.  I  often  tell  them, 
as  I  suggest  to-night,  that  if  we  talk  peace  we  will  have 
peace. 

Mr.  Allen  was  introduced  by  Mayor  Baron  Sakatani,  who, 
as  Vice-President  of  the  Japan  Peace  Society,  acted  as  toast- 
master.  *  '  ••i|*!ri^; 

In  welcoming  Mr.  Allen,  Baron  Shibusawa,  Counselor  of 
the  Japan  Peace  Society,  expressed  the  hope  that  the  bear- 
ers of  expressions  of  good-will  from  America  would  continue 
to  exert  themselves  until  some  of  the  questions  between  the 
countries  shall  have  been  solved.  Thus  as  words  increas- 
ingly became  deeds,  the  uneasiness  which  is  entertained  by 
people  who  do  not  fully  understand  the  situation  will  be  al- 
layed and  the  foundations  of  international  peace  will  be 
strengthened.  Mr.  J.  M.  Gardiner,  President,  brought  greet- 
ings from  the  American  Peace  Society  of  Japan. 

Dr.  K.  Kozaki,  President  of  the  Japanese  Federation  of 
Churches,  expressed  his  cordial  appreciation  of  the  spirit  of 
the  Pacific  Coast  churches  as  expressed  in  the  letter  brought 
by  Mr.  Allen.  Dr.  J.  Soyeda  expressed  the  hope  that  the 
messengers  from  America  would  carry  back  to  their  coun- 
try some  concrete  results.  This,  he  thought,  could  be  real- 
ized through  securing  some  organization  to  represent  the 
Japanese  churches  in  continuous  co-operation  with  the 
Christian  organization  in  America.  This,  with  the  co-oper- 
ation of  business  organizations,  will  be  of  great  assistance  in 
the  future. 

Among  those  present  at  the  dinner,  besides  those  already 
named,  were  Mr.  B.  Nakano,  Mr.  S.  Hayakawa  (banker) ,  Dr. 
Clay  McCauley,  President  K.  Kamada  of  Keip  University, 
Dr.  T.  Harada,  President  of  Doshisha  University  of  Kyoto; 
Mr.  E.  W.  Frazer,  Dr.  A.  Oltmans,  Dr.  D.  B.  Schneder,  Pres- 
ident of  the  North  Japan  College  of  Sendai ;  Mr.  S.  Satake, 
M.  P. ;  Mr.  Z.  Horikoshi,  Mr.  Gilbert  Bowles,  and  Mr.  S.  Ne- 
moto,  M.  P. 

The  above  reported  dinner  and  meeting  was  prayerfully 
entered  into  by  me  with  the  feeling  that  it  was  part  of  my 
work  in  Japan.  Our  Divine  Master  has  many  ways  of  hav- 
ing His  work  accomplished,  and  the  old  admonition  to  sow  by 


24  A  QUAKER  DIARY  IN  THE  ORIENT. 

all  waters  ever  holds  good.  My  retrospect  of  this  function 
is  satisfactory.  Care  was  exercised  by  our  courteous  hosts 
to  not  infringe  on  our  simple  Friendly  ways ;  and  the  oppor- 
tunity was  given  to  extend  the  better  Christian  desires 
throughout  Japan  as  no  other  method  could.  The  address, 
and  my  speech,  I  understand,  has  by  medium  of  the  news- 
papers, been  spread  through  the  empire. 

Tenth  Month  15. 

This  afternoon,  accompanied  by  Gilbert  Bowles,  my 
friend  W.  B.  H.  and  I  called  on  the  Prime  Minister  of  Japan, 
Count  Okuma.  He  prolonged  the  audience  for  one  hour. 
His  features  are  thoroughly  Japanese,  and  in  repose  his 
mouth  is  one  great  curve  shut  like  a  vise.  But  in  conversa- 
tion his  face  is  luminous  and  with  a  great  play  of  expres- 
sion, whilst  his  eyes  fairly  twinkle  with  joy.  He  is  exceed- 
ingly animated,  gesticulating  freely  in  conversation,  more 
so  than  any  twenty  Japanese  combined  that  I  have  yet  met. 

Immediately  after  I  had  presented  an  original  copy  of  the 
address  of  the  Peace  Committee  of  Pacific  Coast  Churches, 
and  he  had  expressed  his  gratification  at  getting  such  a  com- 
munication from  Christians,  he  introduced  the  subject  of  the 
present  war  with  Germany,  saying  that  it  had  been  forced 
upon  Japan  against  his  personal  will,  and  that  of  his  country, 
but  had  to  be  entered  into  owing  to  the  treaty  between  Eng- 
land and  Japan.  He  profoundly  deplored  the  terrible  situ- 
ation, with  most  of  the  civilized  nations  of  the  world  in  con- 
flict, but  hoped  that  it  would  be  followed  by  international 
quiet,  just  as  a  calm  succeeds  a  typhoon. 

When  I  read  him  the  message  of  love  from  all  with  whom 
I  came  into  contact,  which  is  contained  in  the  credentials 
from  Philadelphia  Yearly  Meeting  of  Friends,  he  expressed 
his  appreciation  by  bowing  his  head  and  politely  exclaiming 
that  the  Friends  were  the  most  satisfactory  of  all  Chris- 
tians, or  words  to  that  effect.  This  was  followed  by  a  long 
and  remarkable  deliverance  regarding  America.  He  said 
that  America  had  been  founded  on  a  religious  basis  by  the 
Puritans  and  Friends  and  others  who  loved  God,  and  these 
men  had  had  the  highest  ideals.  No  country  had  ever  been 
so  created.  The  successors  of  the  fathers  of  the  nation  had 


A  LITTLE  GARDEN  IN  JAPAN. 


A  TYPICAL  JAPANESE  TEMPLE. 


WITH  PEACE  WORKERS  AND  PREMIER.  25 

to  a  good  degree  lived  up  to  the  law  of  righteousness.  The 
national  conscience  had  ever  been  sincere  and  great.  He 
believed  that  the  Christian  influence  still  permeated  Amer-" 
ica  and  directed  her  course.  This  was  exemplified  in  the 
fact  that  recently  the  rulers  of  the  warring  nations  of  Eu- 
rope had  written  to  President  Wilson  with  reference  to  their 
desire  to  appear  in  the  right  as  to  their  conduct  of  that  war. 
Finally,  he  considered  that  President  Wilson  embodied  in  his 
personality  the  righteousness  which  exalts  a  nation  and  was 
the  living  exponent  of  the  Christian  traditions  which  had 
made  our  country  great. 

When  I  spoke  to  him  about  the  failure  of  great  armaments 
to  protect  international  peace,  he  vigorously  assented,  and 
sent  for  a  copy  of  a  Japanese  magazine  containing  an  article 
recently  written  by  him  on  the  subject.  He  expressed  the 
hope  that  the  present  war  will  result  in  the  breakdown  of 
militarism  and  the  enlargement  of  human  liberty. 

I  was  impressed  with  the  feeling  that  we  had  been  in 
the  presence  of  an  old  man,  who  really  loved  his  fellow-men, 
and  who,  whilst  not  a  Christian  in  name,  knew  and  endeav- 
ored to  follow  the  law  of  God  written  in  his  own  heart,  whilst 
inconsistently  compelled  to  acquiesce  to  the  conditions  asso- 
ciated with  his  political  eminence  in  his  own  country  and  in 
the  world. 

The  day  after  the  dinner  at  which  the  address  was  issued 
to  the  press,  the  Emperor  sent  for  a  copy  of  it.  I  fortunate- 
ly had  provided  myself  with  three  original  signed  copies  be- 
fore leaving  San  Francisco,  so  both  the  Emperor  and  Prime 
Minister  now  have  received  them. 

Tenth  Month  16. 

To-day  was  very  busy  getting  off  reports  to  the  Federal 
Council  of  the  Churches  of  Christ  in  America,  etc.  This 
morning  I  addressed  a  large  Bible  class  at  Keio  University 
on  Christianity  and  business;  and  in  the  evening  spoke  to 
about  thirty-three  young  men  gathered  in  the  parlor  of  Gil- 
bert Bowles. 

Bishop  McKim,  of  the  Protestant  Episcopal  Church  of  Ja- 
pan, called,  and  I  laid  before  him  the  need  of  church  action 
with  respect  to  the  continuance  of  friendship  between  the 


26  A  QUAKER  DIARY  IN  THE  ORIENT. 

United  States  and  Japan.  I  told  him  of  the  necessity  of  pro- 
tests from  the  American  churches  regarding  racial  preju- 
dice and  militarism  if  the  missionary  efforts  of  the  churches 
in  non-Christian  lands  are  to  be  developed.  He  has  a  big 
and  generous  heart.  He  listened  carefully,  and  said  that 
next  week  the  mission  conference  of  Japan  of  their  denomi- 
nation would  meet,  and  that  he  would  prepare  resolutions 
and  bring  the  matter  before  the  conference,  looking  toward 
co-operation  between  themselves  and  the  churches  in  our 
country.  I  am  happy  to  think  that  now  three  annual  assem- 
blies of  Christian  bodies  in  Japan  are  started  on  this  work 
in  connection  with  this  visit  to  Japan. 

Tenth  Month  17. 

Calling,  getting  ready  for  the  anticipated  trip  into  China, 
and  a  meeting  with  an  English-speaking  Society,  at  which  I 
spoke  on  American- Japanese  relations,  occupied  to-day. 

Tenth  Month  18. 

I  was  silent  in  the  morning  (First-day)  meeting.  W.  B. 
H.  was  favored  in  delivering  a  message  to  the  people. 

I  spoke  at  the  Bible  class  afterward,  according  to  arrange- 
ment, on  "Worship." 

The  Friends'  Meeting  for  Worship  in  Tokyo  introduces 
some  novel  ways  to  foreigners.  Thus  if  a  man  in  the  meet- 
ing desires  to  speak  he  often  walks  to  the  front,  bows  first 
to  those  on  the  platform,  then  to  the  congregation,  which 
bows  in  return,  and  then  he  proceeds  to  deliver  his  message. 
At  the  conclusion  the  bows  all  round  are  repeated.  Two  ap- 
parently helpful  messages  from  the  congregation  were  deliv- 
ered to-day.  The  Japanese  are  in  many  ways  most  punctil- 
ious and  ceremonious. 

A  quiet  and  restful  little  meeting  for  worship  was  also 
held  in  the  afternoon  at  the  home  of  the  teachers  connected 
with  the  Mission. 

Tenth  Month  19. 

This  morning  we  went  to  the  Meiji  Gaku-in,  or  Presbyte- 
rian College.  Two  meetings  were  held;  first  with  about 
twenty-seven  theological  students,  and  afterward  with  250 
or  over  young  men.  In  both  of  these  meetings  I  had  to 


WITH  PEACE  WORKERS  AND  PREMIER.  27 

preach  the  gospel  of  love  and  forgiveness  as  taught  by  the 
written  words  of  the  New  Testament  and  the  inward  law  of 
God  in  our  own  hearts.  The  need  of  Christian  workers  ~be^ 
ing  separated  unto  Christ  was  emphasized  in  the  opportuni- 
ty with  the  divinity  class,  and  it  was  a  solemn  season. 

The  faculties  at  the  numerous  educational  institutions  we 
have  visited  have  been  most  kind  in  their  expressions  of 
sympathy  with  the  exception  of  one  very  dour  young  man, 
who,  I  fear,  is  somewhat  of  a  stranger  to  the  sweetness  there 
is  in  Christ  and  to  the  possibilities  of  joy  in  Him. 

Tenth  Month  20. 

I  have  been  disappointed  to-day  in  not  getting  out,  but  for- 
tunately only  semi-working  engagements  and  one  social  en- 
gagement were  interfered  with.  The  enforced  rest  may  be 
useful  in  many  respects — not  the  least  spiritually.  Oh!  I 
need  power,  power,  power  from  the  one  Infinite  Source  of 
spiritual  activity  if  I  am  to  be  able  to  preach  the  unsearch- 
able riches  of  Christ ! 

Tenth  Month  21. 

This  morning  we  met  Drs.  Haven  and  North,  representing 
the  Federal  Council,  and  a  few  other  men  at  breakfast  at  the 
Imperial  Hotel,  in  conference,  as  to  what  may  be  done  to  help 
solve  the  problems  that  create  irritation  between  our  coun- 
try and  Japan.  It  was  a  most  interesting  occasion  and 
some  helpful  conclusions  were  arrived  at.  Eleven  men  were 
present. 

Afterward,  in  Yokohama,  W.  B.  H.  and  I  met  two  very  dif- 
ferent men,  but  both  imbued  with  the  spirit  of  our  Master. 
Dr.  John  Bearing  is  young  and  full  of  energy — Dr.  Henry 
Loomis  is  one  of  the  oldest  missionaries  in  Japan  and  pos- 
sesses a  rare  charm  of  gentleness  and  love.  He  told  me 
about  Asa  Hirooka,  a  woman  who  in  various  departments  of 
business  life  had  been  extraordinarily  successful,  and  who 
all  the  time  had  been  a  devout  Buddhist.  She  finally  re- 
solved to  study  the  Bible  and  decided  on  the  existence  of  a 
God.  She  could  not,  however,  for  a  long  time  feel  any  sense 
of  sin  or  of  the  need  of  a  Savior.  Yet  in  this  attitude  of 
mind  she  would  go  into  the  woods  and  pray  that  if  there  was 


28  A  QUAKER  DIARY  IN  THE  ORIENT. 

a  Savior  He  might  be  revealed  to  her.  Finally  the  connec- 
tion was  fastened  in  her  mind,  that  Jesus  Christ  was  her 
salvation  and  hope.  She  lived  a  new  life  after  this  conver- 
sion; gave  up  her  large  business  interests,  and  spends  her 
strength  in  going  among  her  own  people  and,  in  largely  at- 
tended meetings,  telling  of  her  conversion  and  preaching 
Christ.  She  will  stand  on  the  platform  and  say,  "What  I 
tell  you  is  real ;  this  is  my  individual  experience ;  I  feel  and 
know  within  me  that  Jesus  Christ  is  my  Savior." 


III. 

THE  MITO  TRIP. 

Tenth  Month  23. 

On  the  22nd  inst.  our  party  went  to  Nikko,  and  enjoyed  a 
vacation  there  until  the  morning  of  the  24th  inst.  Our  day 
of  rest  was  passed  in  rickshaw  rides  up  the  lovely  valley  and 
under  the  cryptomeria  trees.  The  temples  and  tombs  at 
Nikko  are  very  interesting.  The  former  exhibit  rare  beauty 
and  marvelous  lacquer  work.  We  went  through  one  of  these 
temples  with  throngs  of  tourists  who,  as  non-Christians, 
would  stop  before  the  various  shrines,  prostrate  themselves 
and  throw  coin  into  the  sacred  enclosure,  whilst  priests 
stood  by  and  harangued  them.  Thousands  of  college  men 
and  schoolboys  were  visiting  Nikko  and  its  temples  this  day, 
it  being  a  holiday. 

Tenth  Month  24. 

On  the  24th  we  proceeded  to  Shimodate  and  in  the  house 
of  T.  Mishima  held  a  meeting.  But  few  were  present. 

Tenth  Month  25. 

The  following  being  First-day  we  attended  two  meetings 
in  Mito,  having  reached  the  hospitable  home  of  Gurney  and 
Elizabeth  Binford  the  evening  before.  I  spoke  in  both  meet- 
ings. Because  of  the  foreigners  present  the  morning  period 
of  worship  was  longer  than  usual. 

Tenth  Month  27. 

The  27th  inst.  found  us  at  Ishioka,  where  good  Christian 
work  is  accomplished  by  the  local  evangelist,  C.  Suzuki. 

This  Friend  was  most  attractive  to  us.  As  his  children 
were  born  he  based  the  naming  of  them  on  the  text:  'The 
Kingdom,  the  Power  and  the  Glory."  Thus,  one  child,  a  boy, 
was  given  the  Japanese  name  for  "Peace — Kingdom";  the 
second,  a  girl,  "Glory,"  and  the  third,  a  boy,  was  called 


30  A  QUAKER  DIARY  IN  THE  ORIENT. 

"Power"  in  Japanese.  As  other  children  came  he  com- 
menced another  text:  "I  am  the  Way,  the  Truth  and  the 
Life."  Thus  the  Japanese  name  for  "Way"  was  applied  to 
a  girl,  and  that  of  "Truth"  to  a  boy.  A  sixth  child,  a  boy, 
appeared  and  was  given  a  name  which  means  "to  work  with 
zeal." 

Our  friend  Suzaki  had  a  goodly  company  gathered  in  his 
home,  and  the  occasion  was  a  particularly  favored  one.  Our 
Heavenly  Father  was  in  our  midst.  I  find  that  as  the  people 
are  acquainted  writh  the  Friendly  habit  of  spending  part  of 
the  hour  of  worship  in  silent  waiting  upon  God,  just  about 
in  proportion  seems  there  to  be  solidity  of  deportment  and 
a  uniting  sense  of  the  divine  presence  and  love.  I  notice  in 
many  places  that  the  Japanese  temperament  seems  to  pecu- 
liarly accommodate  itself  to  silent  devotion. 

Tenth  Month  28. 

On  the  28th  we  went  by  rickshaws  some  ten  miles  distant 
to  Minato.  It  was  a  pleasant  drive  there  and  back  through 
typical  Japanese  rural  scenes.  The  processes  of  rice  harvest 
were  all  before  us,  the  cutting,  the  hanging  up  on  bamboo 
fences  of  the  sheaves  to  dry,  the  separation  of  the  grain  from 
the  straw,  the  use  of  the  flail  on  the  threshing  floors,  and 
the  hauling  from  place  to  place  of  the  heavy  sheaves.  We 
saw  that  everything  was  done  by  hand  with  the  most  prim- 
itive implements.  Old  people  and  young  girls,  with  others, 
staggered  under  loads  fit  for  a  horse  in  our  blessed  land. 
Countless  women,  often  with  naked  limbs,  spend  day  by 
day  working  in  the  paddy  fields  in  mud  and  water  a  foot  or 
more  deep.  Added  to  this  are  the  sometimes  unpleasant 
habits  of  the  poor  that  violate  the  ideas  of  modesty  cherished 
in  Western  countries.  Crossing  the  river  in  a  sam-pan,  rick- 
shaws and  all,  was  a  novel  experience.  Our  rickshaw  men 
trotted  the  whole  ten  miles  to  Minato,  and  the  ten  miles 
back,  in  about  one  and  a  half  hours  each  way,  and  charged 
us  60  cents  American  money  for  their  toil. 

Everywhere  I  go  I  see  that  Japan  needs  Christ.  He  is,  as 
everywhere  else,  in  proportion  as  we  really  accept  and  obey 
Him,  the  only  cure  for  poverty  and  sin. 


Two  LITTLE  FRIENDS  OF  TSUCHIURA  CONGREGATION. 


"GOING  To  MEETING. 


THE  MITO  TRIP.  31 

The  meeting  in  the  house  of  the  local  evangelist  at  Minato 
was  not  encouraging  to  me,  owing  to  the  great  unsettlement 
that  prevailed,  all  being  late  and  a  few  leaving  when  we  were 
about  half  through.  I  was  greatly  distressed,  but  tried  to 
keep  my  mind  centered  on  the  object  of  our  gathering  and 
to  deliver  a  message  that  in  spite  of  difficulties  seemed  to 
arise  with  spiritual  life  in  my  own  mind.  The  meeting  con- 
cluded with  prayer.  Possibly  some  good  was  accomplished 
which  1  will  never  know  about.  I  am  told  that  there  is  a 
solid  group  of  Christians  at  this  place,  among  them  the  post- 
master and  the  town  printer,  and  that  their  devotions  are 
generally  favored  as  much  as  elsewhere. 

Tenth  Month  29. 

Our  intercourse  with  the  Binfords  at  Mito  has  been  very 
enjoyable  and  they  have  imparted  much  information  with 
respect  to  mission  work  and  other  conditions  in  Japan.  This 
morning  we  left  Mito  for  Tokyo,  stopping  en  route  at  Tsuch- 
iura.  This  meeting  was  so  typical  of  others  we  have  held  at 
mission  stations  that  I  will  venture  a  little  account  of  it. 

A  few  of  the  Friends  met  us  at  the  railway  station.  All 
by  dress  and  manner  showed  a  superior  condition  to  the 
non-Christian  people  about  them.  We  went  to  the  home  of 
the  local  evangelist,  Mansaku  Nakamura,  and  removed  our 
shoes,  put  on  our  house  slippers,  and  soon  participated  in  the 
noon-meal.  Most  of  this  we  to-day  had  brought  for  our- 
selves, as  the  native  seaweed  soup  and  raw  fish  or  other 
strange  diet  has  not  always  proved  satisfying.  Then  the 
people  commenced  to  gather.  As  we  were  introduced  to 
them  they  would,  on  hands  and  knees,  bow  their  faces  to  the 
floor.  This  at  our  initial  experience  in  Japan,  seemed  to  us 
very  subservient,  but  really  means  no  more  than  handshak- 
ing does  to  us.  All  sat  around  on  the  soft  floor  matting,  my 
Elizabeth  alone  enjoying  a  chair.  I  can  not  sit  on  my  heels, 
so  sit  'Turk  fashion."  W.  B.  H.  sits  all  sorts  of  ways. 
Finally  an  opening  hymn  was  sung,  followed  by  reverent 
waiting  upon  God.  Then  I  spoke  and  the  wife  of  our  Jap- 
anese host  interpreted  most  fluently  for  me.  The  evangel- 
ist said  a  few  words,  not  interpreted  to  the  four  foreigners 
present,  then  I  offered  prayer,  and  after  a  season  of  reverent 


32  A  QUAKER  DIARY  IN  THE  ORIENT. 

silence  a  concluding  hymn  was  sung.  The  congregation  was 
of  the  helpful  sort  to-day.  Among  the  members  of  Friends 
present  was  the  local  agent  of  the  Standard  Oil  Company,  a 
sugar  merchant,  and  banker,  and  other  well-known  citizens 
of  Tsuchiura.  Two  dear  little  children,  a  boy  aged  four 
years,  and  a  girl  two  and  a  half  years,  sat  during  the  meet- 
ing with  a  charming  dignity  and  quietness.  These  little 
fantastically  dressed  children  would  have  done  credit  to  our 
solid  old  Quaker  meeting  at  "Fourth  and  Arch." 

Mansaku  Nakamura,  the  minister,  is  a  young  man  who  a 
few  years  ago  was  on  his  last  year  of  college  course  of  civil 
engineering  in  Tokyo.  One  evening  a  few  years  ago  he  came 
with  a  companion  to  the  Friends'  Mission  in  Tokyo  so  full  of 
hatred  of  the  Christians  as  to  determine  to  break  up  the 
meeting  then  in  progress.  The  hymn  being  simg  as  he  en- 
tered wonderfully  affected  him  and  he  left  the  meeting  re- 
solved to  investigate  the  new  faith.  He  before  long  gave 
proof  of  his  conversion  and  felt  he  must  preach  the  gospel. 
According  to  the  custom  of  the  country  he  called  his  family 
and  relations  together  and  told  them  that  his  anticipated  life 
work  for  which  he  had  been  preparing,  and  for  which  they 
had  been  paying,  must  be  surrendered.  They  were  bitter  in 
their  denunciation,  but  he  stood  firm.  A  few  days  later  he 
met  an  uncle  who  said  to  him :  "We  all  were  opposed  to  you 
the  other  day,  but  I  have  since  then  decided  that  you  can  do 
as  you  feel  you  must.  What  is  more,  the  family  has  had 
another  meeting  and  agree  to  let  you  become  a  Christian  and 
preach  the  Gospel."  Thus,  after  these  bitter  trials,  a  clear 
way  was  made  for  him,  and,  as  M.  P.  Bowles  told  us,  from 
that  day  to  this  Mansaku  Nakamura  "has  not  made  one  false 
step"  in  his  Christian  life. 


IV. 

AROUND  TOKYO  AND  YOKOHAMA. 

Tenth  Month  30. 

About  800  young  men  and  boys  met  us  at  the  Rikkyo 
Gakuin,  or  St.  Paul's  College  of  the  Episcopal  Church,  this 
morning,  where  we  were  warmly  welcomed  by  the  President, 
Dr.  C.  S.  Reifanider  and  the  Principal,  Dr.  Motoda.  The 
audience  included  pupils  from  the  "middle  school"  and  also 
theological  students.  W.  B.  H.  first  gave  a  little  address  on 
Westtown,  and  I  spoke  on  ' 'International  Peace."  It  is  a 
privilege  to  plead  on  behalf  of  the  higher  ideals  from  the 
Christian,  economic  or  moral  viewpoint,  to  so  many  young 
people  who  will  be  likely  to  help  mould  the  thought  of  the 
nation. 

Eleventh  Month  1. 

First-day.  Attended  the  large  union  service  for  American 
Christians  in  Tokyo.  I  spoke  from  the  text:  "I  will  never 
leave  thee  nor  forsake  thee."  A  large  part  of  the  service 
was  conducted  as  a  Friends'  meeting,  with  periods  of  rev- 
erent waiting  upon  God,  and  two  other  ministers  of  other 
denominations  participated  in  it  to  our  great  comfort  and 
satisfaction. 

Eleventh  Month  2. 

Not  long  ago  we  heard  that  a  certain  president  of  a  well- 
known  school  of  Japan  had  stated  to  his  1000  students  that 
war  with  the  United  States  was  inevitable,  and  asked  them 
to  prepare  for  it.  I  felt  I  would  like  to  talk  with  him,  and 
W.  B.  H.  and  Gilbert  Bowles  concurring,  arrangements  were 
made  to  see  him.  We  found  his  antagonism  to  our  country 
was  largely  based  on  the  fact  that,  whilst  during  a  recent 
visit  to  America  he  had  personally  received  the  utmost  cour- 
tesy everywhere,  he  had  met  with  his  own  countrymen,  who 
complained  of  what  they  felt  had  been  insults  to  them  be- 


34  A  QUAKER  DIARY  IN  THE  ORIENT. 

cause  of  their  nationality.  Thus  in  San  Francisco  a  Jap- 
anese man's  silk  hat  had  blown  off  his  head,  and  a  workman 
who  picked  it  up  had  treated  it  with  ridicule.  I  laughed  and 
made  the  president  laugh  as  I  explained  how  silk  hats  are  an 
object  of  scorn  on  anybody's  head  in  the  minds  of  our  rough- 
er element  on  the  Pacific  Coast.  He  complained  that  his 
compatriots  had  told  him  that  all  over  America  they  were 
not  waited  on  until  the  last  in  the  stores,  and  that  in  the 
street  cars  other  people  would  slip  into  vacant  seats  just  be- 
fore them,  all  things  indicating  unfair  treatment  because  of 
their  racial  appearance.  I  replied  that  our  Japanese  friends 
were  too  sensitive,  that  frequently  since  being  in  Tokyo 
young  men  had  pushed  into  seats  in  the  tram-cars  right  be- 
fore me  in  spite  of  my  mature  years,  but  I  had  never  once 
felt  insulted  or  that  it  was  so  intended  because  of  my  being 
of  a  different  race.  On  the  contrary,  I  had  simply  recog- 
nized that  in  Tokyo  as  in  America  the  ruder  classes  look  out 
for  themselves.  He  was  evidently  sincerely  affected  by  my 
remarks,  which  were  reinforced  by  W.  B.  H.'s  testimony 
that  that  very  morning  he  had  had  a  similar  experience.  The 
good  president,  a  most  cultured  man,  repeatedly  expressed 
his  regret.  We  talked  over  a  good  many  things,  I  pointing 
the  need  that  nothing  be  done  or  said  to  excite  irritation 
between  the  two  countries,  and  that  so  doing  would  only  ac- 
centuate and  never  solve  the  problems  of  race  between  us. 
He  agreed  to  this.  I  also  showed  him  that  the  efforts  on  the 
part  of  the  many  friends  of  the  Japanese  in  America  to  help 
them  would  be  thwarted  and  these  American  friends  them- 
selves alienated  by  a  lack  of  consideration  or  forbearance  on 
the  part  of  the  Japanese  in  their  own  country.  We  must 
have  mutual  sympathy  for  each  other.  At  the  close  of  the 
conversation  this  most  delightful  gentleman,  who  had  once 
seemed  to  be  bitter  toward  the  American  people,  asked  me  to 
address  his  school,  and  a  special  assembly  is  called  for  it. 
He  has  seemed  wonderfully  won  over,  and  now  I  pray  that  I 
may  be  divinely  helped  to  carefully  speak  to  this  important 
body  of  students  in  the  hour  allotted  for  the  purpose. 


AROUND  TOKYO  AND  YOKOHAMA.  35 

Eleventh  Month  3. 

A  luncheon  was  given  us  in  Yokohama  yesterday.  I  pray- 
erfully considered  that  the  opportunity  presented  to  address 
such  an  influential  body  of  merchants  and  bankers  in  one  of 
the  great  world  ports  should  not  be  ignored.  Many  of  the 
men  present  were  non-Christians,  but  some  of  these  bowed 
their  heads  reverently  when  I  referred  to  the  power  of  the 
religion  of  our  Lord.  As  a  result  of  this  occasion,  new  offers 
of  opportunities  for  public  service  were  presented,  but  I  am 
compelled  to  decline  new  engagements.  I  see  clearly  that 
I  must  consider  myself  released  from  the  locality  of  Tokyo 
on  the  tenth  of  this  month.  Here  is  the  newspaper  account : 

Under  the  auspices  of  the  Yokohama  branch  of  the  Japan 
Peace  Society  a  tiffin  was  given  at  the  Bankers'  Club  yester- 
day noon  in  honor  of  Mr.  Wm.  C.  Allen,  President  of  the 
Northern  California  Peace  Society,  who  is  now  visiting  Ja- 
pan. Since  his  arrival  in  Japan  at  the  latter  part  of  last 
month,  Mr.  Allen,  who  is  accompanied  by  Mr.  William  B. 
Harvey,  has  had  frequent  interviews  with  the  leading  Jap< 
anese  and  American  residents. 

In  his  capacity  as  the  Secretary  and  representative  of  the 
Pacific  Coast  Churches  of  the  United  States,  Mr.  Allen, 
through  the  interpretation  of  Mr.  Nomura,  addressed  the 
gathering  as  follows: 

As  you  know,  I  bring  to  Japan  an  address  from  the  Peace 
Committee  of  the  Christian  churches  of  the  Pacific  Coast, 
signed  by  Captain  Robert  Dollar,  who  is  doubtless  known  to 
many  of  you.  *  *  *  This  address  can  at  least  explain 
our  feelings  toward  the  people  of  Japan  which  the  latter  cer- 
tainly appreciate. 

The  attitude  of  our  President  toward  international  comity 
and  friendship  is  well  known  and  should  be  a  guarantee  to 
all  other  nations  of  the  sincere  desire  of  our  administration 
to  pursue  an  honorable  course  in  international  relations. 
Many  of  us  feel  that  Christianity  has  been  the  foundation 
of  the  prosperity  of  America,  and  it  has  been  a  source  of 
happiness  to  me  to  observe  that  the  missionaries  coming  to 
your  country  from  ours  are  appreciated  as  bringing  with 
them  the  ideals  which  may  be  a  blessing  to  your  land  as  well 
as  to  ours. 

The  peace  propaganda  in  America  offers  many  strong 
pledges  of  good-will  and  friendship  between  your  country 
and  my  own.  Possibly  some  of  you  little  know  how  much 
time  is  devoted  by  our  leading  men  to  the  furtherance  of 


36  A  QUAKER  DIARY  IN  THE  ORIENT. 

international  good-will.  Among  the  many  agencies  devoted 
to  this  service  may  be  mentioned  the  following  organiza- 
tions, and  officered  by  leading  business  men,  bankers,  or  edu- 
cators : 

The  Japan  Society,  the  American-Scandinavian  Society, 
The  Pan- American  Society,  the  German-American  Society, 
The  Grange,  representing  1,000,000  farmers ;  The  Inter-Par- 
liamentary Union,  associated  with  the  leading  Parliamen- 
tarians of  other  nations.  There  are  hundreds  of  peace  so- 
cieties. Besides,  our  leading  bankers,  lawyers,  merchants, 
educators,  etc.,  are  interested  in  this  great  movement.  Some 
of  these  men  count  it  a  privilege  to  travel  hundreds  of  miles 
to  deliver  an  address  on  this  leading  world  question. 
********** 

At  the  annual  congress  of  the  Association  of  Chambers 
of  Commerce  of  the  United  Kingdom  held  in  1913,  Sir  Alger- 
non F.  Firth,  its  President,  in  his  opening  speech,  referred  to 
the  increasing  and  appalling  expenditure  on  armaments.  He 
said:  "At  the  present  rate  of  increase,  Europe  in  ten  years 
would  be  spending  on  armaments  annually  a  sum  sufficient 
to  replace  the  mercantile  marine  of  the  world."  He  called 
attention  to  "this  handicap  upon  the  world's  industry."  He 
asked  the  greatest  business  body  of  the  world  that  they, 
"with  no  uncertain  voice  call  upon  statesmen  to  get  together 
and  devise  a  better  scheme." 

Some  of  us  of  America  particularly  ask  your  sympathy 
and  co-operation  with  us.  The  leading  men  of  Yokohama 
have  much  at  stake  in  connection  with  the  maintenance  of 
international  peace.  The  system  of  war  is  admittedly  false 
to  humanity.  History  reveals  that  it  does  not  permanently 
settle  quarrels.  It  only  breeds  succeeding  wars;  it  can  not 
be  depended  upon  as  a  means  of  deciding  the  equities  of  in- 
ternational disputes;  whereas,  an  International  Court  of 
Justice  has  proved  its  value  in  this  respect.  War  represents 
only  the  power  of  brute  force.  Banking,  commerce  and  edu- 
cation, on  the  other  hand,  exalt  the  power  of  the  intellect. 
War  represents  the  ideals  of  the  past.  Your  great  profes- 
sion of  banking  is  associated  with  the  ideals  of  the  future. 
May  I  not  appeal  to  you  to  assist  some  of  us  in  America  to 
replace  the  antique  system  of  war  with  the  saner  methods  of 
international  arbitration  or  judicial  procedure? 

The  possibilities  connected  with  the  determination  of  busi- 
ness men  to  protect  their  own  and  national  interests  from 
the  damage  done  by  militarism,  and  by  doing  all  they  can  to 
assist  a  spirit  of  international  co-operation,  are  very  great. 

Business  men  of  all  others  should  be  interested  in  the 
organized  peace  work.  You  have  some  active  peace  socie- 


AROUND  TOKYO  AND  YOKOHAMA.  37 

ties  organized  in  Japan,  officered  by  some  of  your  best  men. 
They  take  the  broad  view  of  patriotism  which  looks  to  the 
conserving  of  the  moral  and  material  interests  of  national 
life  as  against  the  waste  and  deterioration  resulting  from 
lapses  in  international  friendship.  I  appeal  to  you  to  do  all 
you  can  to  support  these  organizations  in  the  success  of 
which  you  must  admit  your  own  financial  interest  is  in- 
volved. 


It  has  been  a  source  of  regret  to  me  since  reaching  Japan 
to  find  prevalent  at  the  present  time  in  a  few  of  your  news- 
papers just  what  we  in  America  have  to  contend  with  at 
other  times.  I  refer  to  the  spirit  of  jingoism.  I  have  read 
numerous  reports  about  contemplated  action  on  the  part  of 
the  United  States  which  might  be  adverse  to  Japan,  and 
while  every  one  of  these  reports  have  been  proved  to  be 
false,  they  continue  to  do  their  unhappy  work  and  may 
estrange  some  of  your  people  from  a  spirit  of  friendship 
which  they  have  for  America  and  which  we,  on  our  part, 
most  certainly  feel  toward  Japan.  Can  you  not  invoke  the 
support  of  your  better  newspapers  in  stopping  this  unhappy 
work?  Such  loose  talk  is  full  of  danger.  I  appeal  to  you 
to  take  active  measures  to  bring  your  influence  to  bear  where 
necessary,  in  order  to  neutralize  the  jingoistic  spirit. 

In  responding  to  Mr.  Allen,  Mr.  Otani,  President  of  the 
Yokohama  Chamber  of  Commerce,  expressed  his  sincere  wel- 
come of  the  visit  of  Messrs.  Allen  and  Harvey.  He  stated 
that  such  a  question  as  the  conflict  which  is  feared  in  some 
quarters  of  this  country  and  also  in  the  United  States  is  a 
faint  dream  of  the  fool,  which  is  scarcely  worth  the  consid- 
eration of  those  of  common  sense. 

The  war  between  Japan  and  the  United  States  is  an  abso- 
lute impossibility,  in  view  of  geographical  and  historical 
points.  But  things  of  triflying  nature  are  often  liable  to 
cause  the  origin  of  matters  of  gravity.  Consequently,  it  is, 
as  expressed  by  Mr.  Allen,  sincerely  hoped  that  all  members 
of  the  society  in  co-operation  of  those  of  business  circles, 
banking  enterprises  and  industrial  bodies,  try  to  exert  them- 
selves toward  the  promotion  of  peace  between  this  country 
and  America. 

Among  those  present  yesterday  in  addition  to  those  above 
mentioned  were  Mayor  Mr.  Ando,  Mr.  Inouye,  director  of  the 
Yokohama  Specie  Bank;  Judge  Sato  Hakuai,  Mr.  H.  Idzuka, 
of  the  Tokyo  Risen  Kaisha ;  Rev.  I.  Mori,  Dr.  J.  L.  Bearing, 
Mr.  Gilbert  Bowles,  Dr.  Clay  McCauley,  the  Rev.  H.  Loomis, 


38  A  QUAKER  DIARY  IN  THE  ORIENT. 

Mr.  M.  Kobayashi,  Secretary  of  the  Yokohama  branch  of 
the  Japan  Peace  Society,  and  others. 

Eleventh  Month  5. 

This  morning  W.  B.  H.  and  I  went  to  the  Aoyama  Gakuin 
(M.  E.  College),  where  at  the  assembly  I  had  a  full  oppor- 
tunity to  speak  to  about  450  students.  The  subject  of  ideals 
was  presented,  and  an  earnest  appeal  made  to  follow  the 
great  idealist,  our  Savior,  who  leads  His  people  into  peace  of 
heart  and  home  and  national  happiness. 

Another  meeting  was  held  with  the  theological  students, 
some  thirty  in  number,  and  the  faculty  of  that  department. 
I  am  sure  that  the  graciousness  of  heavenly  love  rested  upon 
us. 

Eleventh  Month  7. 

About  800  students,  and  the  faculty,  of  the  middle  high 
school  of  Tokyo,  greeted  us  to-day.  The  young  people  and 
others  were  intensely  interested,  often  laughed  and  applaud- 
ed as  I  piled  up  arguments  in  favor  of  international  concord, 
and  against  war.  I  also  referred  to  conditions  in  California, 
showing  the  reasonable  objections  raised  by  some  of  our  cit- 
izens against  some  of  their  countrymen.  It  required  prayer- 
ful caution,  lest  I  say  something  that  would  hurt  the  feel- 
ings of  anyone  present.  The  president  and  others  seemed 
highly  pleased,  he  remarking  more  than  once :  "It  was  a  fine 
speech,  a  very  fine  speech."  So  I  am  glad.  This  school  is 
considered  the  finest  of  its  kind  in  the  Empire,  as  into  it  by 
process  of  elimination  are  entered  the  most  promising  youth 
of  the  country. 

I  go  from  high  school  to  college,  Christian  or  non-Chris- 
tian, and  in  them  all  see  the  young  men  engaged  in  military 
training.  The  Christian  college  people  say  they  are  obliged 
to  do  this,  as  without  it  they  would  not  obtain  governmental 
recognition.  Truly  many  difficulties  have  seemed  in  my 
pathway,  but  they  have  all  vanished  as  I  have  proceeded. 

I  have  had  much  fun  over  my  coat-tails  in  Japan.  I  left 
America  with  a  black  business  suit,  which  I  hoped  would 
answer  for  all  occasions,  but,  on  reaching  the  land  of  Orien- 
tal-occidental etiquette,  found  that  a  tail-less  coat  would  not 


AROUND  TOKYO  AND  YOKOHAMA.  39 

be  suitable  for  public  addresses,  dinners  or  even  morning- 
calls  on  prominent  men.  So  a  coat  with  tails  was  added~to- 
my  equipment.  Our  guide,  philosopher  and  friend,  Gilbert 
Bowles,  keeps  me  posted  as  to  what  good  form  in  Japan 
requires  day  by  day.  Thus  I  will  say  in  the  morning,  "Well, 
Gilbert,  is  it  tails  or  no  tails  this  morning?"  If  he  says 
"tails,"  on  goes  the  otherwise  avoided  coat. 


V. 

LAST  DAYS  IN  JAPAN. 

Eleventh  Month  8. 

There  are  many  traits  in  the  Japanese  character  which  we 
can  admire.  For  instance,  at  a  hotel  in  Kobe,  we  met  with 
some  German  refugees  from  Vladivostock,  who  fled  to  Japan 
as  a  result  of  the  war  in  Europe.  Although  Japan  is  also  at 
war  with  Germany,  these  refugees  in  Japan  are  perfectly 
safe,  and  treated  with  the  utmost  respect.  They  have  per- 
sonal freedom  so  long  as  they  strictly  act  the  part  of  non- 
combatants.  On  the  other  hand,  Japanese  civilization  is 
very  different  from  ours.  It  offers  a  moderate  extension  of 
public  utilities,  and  has  a  strong  army  and  navy  in  so  far  as 
these  indicate  "civilization."  But  the  crowded  manner  of 
living,  the,  to  us,  often  disagreeable  habits  of  the  poorer 
people,  the  prevalence  of  skin  diseases,  etc.,  all  make  one  feel 
that  this  admirable  race  has  yet  much  to  attain  in  the  com- 
ing years.  Yet  they  keep  their  persons  and  houses  scrupu- 
lously clean. 

In  considering  the  desire  of  some  Japanese  to  have  full 
access  to  America — most  of  them,  I  believe,  do  not  care  for 
that — it  must  be  remembered  that  their  Government  is  said 
to  have  returned  to  Korea  and  China  some  years  ago  a  few 
shiploads  of  Coolies  whose  possible  entrance  into  Japan 
threatened  to  cheapen  labor  in  the  latter  country.  At  a 
large  meeting  held  at  Kobe  in  the  year  1912  to  protest 
against  the  anti- Japanese  legislation  in  California,  which 
was  adverse  to  Japanese  residents  of  that  State,  I  am  in- 
formed that  Dr.  Myers  in  an  address  reminded  his  hearers 
that  they  were  in  essence  protesting  against  the  same  sort 
of  action  as  they  had  themselves  exercised  toward  Asiatics 
a  few  years  before.  The  large  audience  took  its  "medicine," 
saw  the  point,  and  laughed  whilst  cheering  the  speaker. 


LAST  DAYS  IN  JAPAN.  41 

First-day :  At  the  mission  meet  this  morning,  in  which  I 
preached  from  the  text:  'The  Gospel  of  the  Kingdom,"  en- 
larging upon  the  spiritual  nature  of  tHe  Kingdom  of  our 
Lord  and  the  terms  upon  which  it  is  to  be  entered  and  en- 
joyed. Was  on  my  feet  almost  one  hour — quite  long! 

In  the  afternoon  at  the  Y.  M.  C.  A.  we  met  with  a  group 
of  serious  men,  to  whom  I  spoke  from  the  text:  "This  is 
life  eternal,  to  know  Thee,  the  only  true  God,  and  Jesus 
Christ,  whom  Thou  hast  sent."  It  was  a  solemn  meeting 
and  conducted  after  the  simple  manner  of  Friends — no  sing- 
ing— again  showing  that  the  Japanese  temperament  can 
well  adapt  itself  to  silent  worship  if  encouraged  thereto.  I 
frequently  hear  that  this  is  the  case. 

The  Japanese  during  their  war  with  Russia  were  the  first 
to  recognize  the  possibilities  of  sanitation  in  connection  with 
army  life.  In  that  campaign,  lasting  almost  two  years,  only 
about  30  per  cent,  of  their  losses  were  from  disease  and  70 
per  cent,  in  battle.  This  comparison  is  all  the  more  strik- 
ing when  we  recall  that  the  normal  mortality  in  war  has  been 
80  per  cent,  from  disease  and  20  per  cent,  from  battle  "cas- 
ualties." Yet  at  army  matters  their  sanitary  success  seems 
to  stop.  Their  cities  have  no  sewer  system.  Foul  and  of- 
fensive smells  everywhere  greet  the  visitor  in  Tokyo  and 
other  great  communities.  Carts  dragged  by  many  men  and 
boys  and  loaded  with  sewage,  and  polluting  the  air,  are 
encountered  at  every  turn.  No  doubt  this  antique  condition 
is  the  result  of  lack  of  funds  which  has  developed  from  their 
public  expenditure  largely  going  into  national  defense. 

Eleventh  Month  9. 

Oh,  the  horrors  of  packing  and  re-packing!  To-day  has 
been  employed  in  making  financial  and  traveling  arrange- 
ments in  Yokohama  and  in  segregating  our  effects.  Some 
go  to  Hongkong,  whilst  winter  goods  and  other  daily  essen- 
tials we  take  with  us  into  Korea  and  China. 

The  Japanese  language  is  full  of  superlatives.  Thus  the 
use  of  the  word  "honorable"  seems  very  funny.  "0-yu"  is 
"honorable  hot  water."  I  often  want  it — certainly  it  is  not 
to  be  despised.  A  certain  vegetable  much  used  throughout 
the  empire,  and  somewhat  like  our  cabbage,  is,  I  am  told, 


42  A  QUAKER  DIARY  IN  THE  ORIENT. 

called  only  by  the  name  "the  honorable  leaves."  The  street 
car  conductors  do  not  just  say  "please  move  up  front."  They 
call  out,  "Please  exert  your  honorable  human  strength  by 
stepping  to  the  front." 

T  have  made  considerable  inquiry  from  missionaries  and 
non-Christians  as  to  how  the  European  war  is  affecting  the 
non-Christian  population's  attitude  toward  Christianity. 
The  missionaries  tell  me  that  many  of  the  Japanese  say 
nothing,  or  little,  about  it,  but  that  reticence  may  indicate 
much  thinking  on  their  part.  So  I  find  it.  Most  of  the  mis- 
sionaries express  the  hope  that  their  work  will  not  be  hurt 
by  the  terrible  inconsistency  of  so-called  Christian  nations 
being  involved  in  this  hideous  struggle.  One  thing  I  do  ob- 
serve: the  Japanese  are  highly  gratified  to  become  partici- 
pants in  a  war  with  Christian  nations  as  allies.  Dr.  Nitobe 
the  other  day  overheard  some  Japanese  conversing  about  the 
war  and  Christians.  Said  one  to  the  other:  "They  say  we 
have  no  religion,  but  theirs  is  only  a  veneer.  Look  how 
when  their  passions  are  aroused  their  religion  fails  to  re- 
strain them.  See  how  in  this  war  they  behave  worse  than 
we  do." 

Eleventh  Month  12. 

I  was  able  to  make  three  appointments  to-day.  We  went 
to  the  7 :45  a.  m.  assembly  at  Doshisha  University  in  Kyoto, 
where  I  spoke  to  670  students  from  the  text,  "Whatsoever 
a  man  soweth,  that  shall  he  also  reap."  It  was  a  solemn 
message,  and  so  felt,  I  believe. 

At  2  p.  m.  we  met  the  80  theological  students  of  the  same 
institution,  and  a  few  religious  workers  from  the  city.  This 
was  a  peace  meeting,  in  which  I  endeavored  to  quicken  the 
sense  of  responsibility  of  these  young  Christians  with  re- 
spect to  international  peace,  also  presenting  many  facts  re- 
garding the  general  and  local  California  situation.  They 
were  very  much  interested.  W.  B.  H.  also  spoke  a  few 
words  of  encouragement  which  made  a  helpful  close  to  the 
meeting. 

The  last  dinner  given  to  us  in  Japan,  in  recognition  of  my 
being  President  of  the  Northern  Californian  Peace  Society, 
and  the  bearer  of  a  letter  from  the  Peace  Committee  of 


VILLAGE  SCENE  NEAR  KYOTO. 


IN  ZOOLOGICAL  GARDEN  OF  KYOTO. 


LAST  DAYS  IN  JAPAN.  43 

Churches,  was  participated  in  by  us  in  the  evening.  It  con- 
cluded a  hard  day's  work.  We  had  a  free  discussion  about 
international  matters,  and  as  to  what  might  be  done  to  mit- 
igate any  tension  between  Japan  and  America.  The  dinner 
was  given  in  the  handsome  new  Chamber  of  Commerce 
building.  This  city  of  Kyoto,  with  its  423,000  people,  has 
many  wealthy  merchants.  At  the  conclusion  of  this  oppor- 
tunity, in  a  short  formal  speech,  the  President  of  the  Cham- 
ber of  Commerce  said  that  when  we  consider  the  present 
war  in  Europe,  our  visit  to  Japan  at  such  a  time  might  be 
considered  like  a  plum  blossom  in  the  snow;  and  he  inti- 
mated that  although  such  was  the  c'ase,  the  blossom  would 
bear  fruit  after  the  chill  had  vanished.  May  his  gracious 
expression  be  realized! 

I  may  here  bear  witness  to  the  cleverness,  courtesy  and 
mental  discipline  manifested  in  the  educated  men  of  Japan 
whom  it  has  been  my  privilege  to  meet  on  this  trip. 

Eleventh  Month  13. 

We  were  again  at  Doshisha  University  before  8  a.  m.  to- 
day to  have  a  meeting  with  the  girls'  department.  As  the 
service  was  given  into  our  hands  I  asked  the  head  of  the  de- 
partment if  we  could  have  it  on  the  basis  of  a  Friends'  meet- 
ing. She  gladly  assented,  saying  that  they  never  had  such 
a  service  before,  and  how  glad  she  was  to  have  such  an  op- 
portunity with  the  200  students  present.  It  was  a  good 
meeting.  I  spoke  from  the  first  few  verses  of  the  16th  chap- 
ter of  the  Gospel  of  Mark,  and  the  silences  before  and  after 
were  as  profound  and  reverent  as  I  ever  witnessed. 

We  took  tiffin  with  this  excellent  woman.  Part  of  the  day 
was  devoted  to  the  much-needed  change  of  sight-seeing  and 
a  little  shopping.  Some  gardens  we  visited  were  the  first 
beautiful  ones  we  had  seen  in  Japan,  and  my  trusty  camera 
was  brought  into  frequent  requisition. 

Whilst  speaking  of  Doshisha  University,  I  must  not  for- 
get how  Dr.  Harada,  its  able  President,  has  assisted  us.  He 
is  one  of  the  great  men  of  Japan  to  whom  I  was  favored  to 
have  introductions  from  mutual  friends  in  America.  One 
was  from  a  leading  business  man  of  San  Francisco  who 
years  ago  had  been  the  means  of  saving  the  life  of  Dr. 


44  A  QUAKER  DIARY  IN  THE  ORIENT. 

Harada  in  a  shipwreck  off  the  coast  of  Japan,  and  a  warm 
friendship  has  been  maintained  between  these  two  men  ever 
since.  Doshisha  University  is  the  largest  Christian  educa- 
tional institution  in  Japan,  and  has  over  1300  students. 

Many  young  men  met  us  at  the  Y.  M.  C.  A.  meeting 
in  the  evening.  W.  B.  H.  first  spoke,  particularly  emphasiz- 
ing the  fruits  of  Christianity  as  revealed  in  the  beautiful 
building  we  met  in,  which  was  the  gift  of  a  Philadelphia 
Christian  merchant,  John  Wanamaker.  I  spoke  on  "Why  I 
Am  a  Christian,"  giving  some  of  the  leading  reasons  that 
appeal  both  to  the  intellect  and  heart  for  belief  in  the  Lord 
Jesus  Christ  as  the  real  Son  of  God  and  Savior  of  the  world. 
About  85  per  cent,  of  those  present  were  non-Christians. 
They  leaned  forward  in  their  chairs,  with  intense  expres- 
sions, anxious  to  grasp  every  word  regarding  a  subject  that 
they  evidently  felt  was  of  vital  interest  to  them.  We  con- 
cluded with  a  time  of  deep,  silent  prayer. 

Eleventh  Month  14. 

The  morning  was  devoted  to  a  drive  to  one  of  the  Emper- 
or's gardens  (Shu  Gakum)  near  Kyoto.  Our  party  was  so 
fortunate  as  to  meet  a  Princess  of  the  royal  family  to  whom 
we  had  been  introduced  the  day  before,  so  that  some  special 
privileges  were  granted  us.  I  did  not  participate  in  all  the 
walking  required,  so  whilst  the  others  wandered  through  the 
grounds  I  sat  with  thankful  heart  enjoying  the  communion 
with  nature  and  God  that  the  quiet  and  beautiful  scene  af- 
forded. 

To  Kobe,  Imperial  Hotel,  in  the  p.  m. 

Eleventh  Month  16. 

As  we  part  from  picturesque  Japan  and  her  courteous  peo- 
ple, many  recollections  of  what  I  have  seen  and  heard  crowd 
to  my  view.  These  have  in  larger  or  smaller  degree  a 
'bearing  on  international  relations.  Here  I  refer  to  a  sub- 
ject that  is  a  simple  matter,  on  the  face  of  it,  yet  one  that 
contributes  its  share  toward  the  maintenance  of  good  feel- 
ing between  that  country  and  America.  Tourists  sometimes 
go  through  the  empire  or  stop  at  its  ports  with  exaggerated 
ideas  of  the  low  cost  of  everything.  They  have  been  known 


LAST  DAYS  IN  JAPAN.  45 

to  hire  rickshaws  for  most  of  the  day  and  then  offer  only  a 
few,  ten  or  twenty  sen  (5  or  10  cents),  for  the  service  ren- 
dered, whereas  the  regular  price  in  such  cities  would  be 
twenty  or  thirty  sen  an  hour.  Bad  feeling  can  not  fail  to 
result  from  such  conduct.  In  many  Japanese  shops  (except 
second-hand  shops)  the  one-price  system  prevails  except 
when  a  special  offer  is  made  for  the  purchase  of  several 
articles  together.  Yet  tourists  have  too  often  been  known 
to  pick  up  the  goods  desired,  lay  down  the  money  they 
thought  might  be  fair,  and  make  off.  The  store-keepers 
protest,  but  are  too  good  mannered  to  place  their  "custo- 
mers" under  arrest.  Anything  that  Christians  can  do  to 
call  attention  to  the  avoidance  of  such  acts  of  injustice  will 
assist  in  promoting  a  feeling  of  friendliness  between  the 
Japanese  and  English-speaking  peoples. 

Japanese  thought  regarding  Christianity  will  have  much 
influence  on  our  international  relations  with  that  country. 
As  I  write  elsewhere,  our  holy  faith  incurs  their  tremendous 
criticism  as  a  result  of  its  assumed  association  with  the 
spirit  of  war.  The  Japanese  mind  fully  grasps  the  incon- 
sistency of  war  with  the  profession  of  Christ,  and  this  fact, 
combined  with  the  burdens  of  militarism  and  excessive  tax- 
ation resulting  therefrom  in  their  own  land,  will  fully  pre- 
pare them  to  welcome  declarations  from  the  churches  of 
America  or  elsewhere  that  are  adverse  to  militarism.  The 
sum  of  my  investigations  in  Japan  lead  to  the  belief  that 
the  churches  of  America  have  everything  to  gain  by  faith- 
fully continuing  their  recently  adopted  policy  of  publicly 
testifying  against  war  or  preparation  for  it. 

Eleventh  Month  16. 

This  day  we  left  Japan  by  steamship  from  Shimonoseki. 
Our  eight  weeks  in  Japan  have  been  full  of  work  and  inter- 
est. The  manifestation  of  the  presence  of  the  Spirit  of  God 
has  been  present  in  many  of  our  meetings.  From  city  to 
city  prominent  men  of  affairs  and  church  people  have  de- 
clared their  satisfaction  with  our  visit  and  their  feeling 
that  the  peace  propaganda  particularly  was  most  opportune. 
Numerous  leading  newspapers  have  favorably  and  civily 
commented  on  the  fact  that  the  Christian  churches  have 


46  A  QUAKER  DIARY  IN  THE  ORIENT. 

taken  up  the  subject  of  internationalism  and  peace.  I  be- 
lieve I  have  been  preserved  from  making  mistakes  at  a  time 
when  much  delicacy  of  expression  in  a  trying  condition  of 
animosity  toward  my  own  country  was  extremely  necessary. 
My  prayers  have  been  realized,  and  for  all  this  I  thank  God. 
That  gentle  and  strong  man,  Gilbert  Bowles,  has  helped  me 
much. 

The  supersensitiveness  of  the  Japanese  as  to  what  other 
nations  may  possibly  be  thinking  of  them  is  admitted  by 
many  eminent  Japanese,  in  private  conversation,  as  a  diffi- 
culty to  be  overcome.  It  bodes  ill  for  their  future  peace 
and  comfort  as  well  as  for  that  of  those  who  may  be  brought 
into  contact  with  them.  The  United  States  passed  through 
a  similar  period  of  self -consciousness  some  fifty  to  one  hun- 
dred years  ago,  and  let  us  hope  that  Japan  will  peacefully 
emerge  from  such  an  experience.  They  admit  the  fairness 
of  the  general  principle  held  by  America  adverse  to  unre- 
stricted immigration,  but  do  ask  for  courteous  treatment  in 
connection  therewith.  Surely  this  is  their  due. 

No  one  should  venture  to  extend  peace  work  in  Japan  and 
grapple  with  the  many-sided  California-Japanese  question 
who  does  not  intimately  know  the  faults  on  both  sides  and 
the  dangers  involved  with  respect  to  the  controversy,  and 
who  can  deal  with  them  in  a  broad  and  sympathetic  spirit. 
On  both  sides  of  the  broad  Pacific  their  people  and  our  own 
have  need  to  cultivate  the  "international  mind/'  And  the 
Christian  worker's  recourse  to  watchfulness  and  prayer  is 
his  crowning  asset.  The  Christian  solution  of  this  perplex- 
ing question  will  be  the  only  enduring  one.  Force  or  talk 
of  bloodshed  will  never  settle  it. 


THEOLOGICAL  STUDENTS  AT  UNION  BIBLE  INSTITUTE,  SEOUL. 


ONE  OF  THE  PICTURESQUE  GATES  OF  SEOUL. 


VI. 
KOREA. 

Eleventh  Month  17. 

We  arrived  in  Seoul,  Korea,  about  8  p.  m.,  where  we  were 
welcomed  at  the  train  by  Bishop  M.  C.  Harris  of  the  M.  E. 
Church  in  Korea,  Dr.  H.  C.  Underwood,  and  others.  Our 
two  days  and  one  night  of  travel  to  Seoul  had  been  partic- 
ularly pleasant.  We  were  the  only  first-class  travelers  most 
of  the  way  and  were  not  subjected  to  crowding  or  to  the 
annoyance  of  constant  second-hand  tobacco  smoke.  The 
steamship  purser  proved  to  be  a  Christian  and  helped  us 
much.  The  scenery  of  southern  Japan  and  the  Inland  Sea 
was  charming  all  of  yesterday.  At  Fusan  we  were  met  by 
Masaru  Fujiwara,  a  Friend  of  the  Japanese  meeting.  He  is 
an  officer  in  the  customs.  He  feels  his  isolation.  We  sym- 
pathized with  him,  and  tried  to  encourage  him  in  his  Chris- 
tian experiences. 

Korea  has  a  population  of  about  13,000,000  people.  There 
are  about  200,000  Christians  in  this  land.  It  was  annexed 
by  Japan  about  four  years  ago.  The  deposed  emperor,  Li, 
still  lives  in  his  ancestral  palace  at  Seoul.  The  people  are 
naturally  non-aggressive,  and  have  yielded  to  the  active  rule 
of  Japan. 

Eleventh  Month  18. 

A  very  strenuous  campaign  awaits  us  here.  Our  good 
missionary  friends  are  going  to  make  the  most  of  us.  I  have 
been  extensively  advertised  as  a  well-known  church  peace 
advocate,  and  much  interest  is  excited  in  our  visit.  As  for 
me,  I  must  "look  up  unto  the  hills  from  whence  cometh  my 
help!"  My  prayers  are  often  more  that  the  people  I  meet 
with  may  be  blessed  with  the  enlightening  influence  of  the 
Holy  Spirit  than  that  His  power  attend  my  imperfect  min- 
istry. 


48  A  QUAKER  DIARY  IN  THE  ORIENT. 

In  the  evening  a  peace  meeting  was  held  in  the  Japanese 
Y.  M.  C.  A.  for  business  men.  It  was  presided  over  by  the 
President  of  the  Supreme  Court  of  Korea,  N.  Watanabe,  and 
about  200  were  present.  This  gentleman  greatly  impressed 
me.  He  is  a  fine  man  and  a  Christian. 

Eleventh  Month  19. 

Again  I  spoke  twice  to-day  on  international  peace.  A 
union  meeting  of  the  theological  students  of  Seoul  was  held 
in  the  picturesque  old  building  where  the  Union  Bible  Insti- 
tute meets.  Over  100  men,  most  from  25  to  30  years  of  age, 
eagerly  listened  to  the  message  of  peace  that  I  was  led  to 
deliver.  After  the  opportunity  I  took  a  picture  of  the  group. 
I  everywere  do  but  little  sight-seeing. 

Thirteen  hundred  students  crowded  the  Presbyterian 
place  of  worship  in  the  afternoon  to  listen  to  another  peace 
address.  As  on  other  occasions  they  sat  on  the  floor,  some 
on  their  heels,  and  others  with  crossed  feet.  They  partic- 
ularly applauded  some  of  the  appeals  I  made  for  the  bravery 
than  can  be  exercised  in  peaceful  pursuits,  or  on  behalf  of 
moral  issues.  This  exhibition  of  feeling  showed  where  their 
hearts  were.  The  missionaries  seem  very  happy  at  being 
able  to  introduce  to  the  city  a  service  that  will  extend  the 
work  of  the  Christian  churches,  and  for  the  first  time  has 
brought  the  non-Christian  members  of  the  public  schools 
into  their  churches.  A  large  majority  of  the  students  pres- 
ent were  from  different  high  schools  of  Seoul,  and  repre- 
sentatives of  the  faculty  of  these,  and  the  Christian  col- 
leges and  schools,  sat  together  on  the  platform.  I  am  always 
glad  to  be  the  means  of  helping  these  faithful  missionaries  in 
their  work,  besides  spreading  peace  principles.  It  was  a  fine 
meeting. 

Eleventh  Month  20. 

We  held  a  Gospel  meeting  for  worship  for  the  students  of 
the  M.  E.  College  and  high  school  to-day,  about  400  being- 
there.  I  spoke  from  the  last  verse  of  the  first  Psalm.  It 
was  a  Friends'  meeting,  not  even  an  opening  hymn,  and  I 
hope  may  have  been  blessed,  as  seemed  to  be  fully  the  case. 


KOREA.  49 

Eleventh  Month  21. 

The  mission  field  of  Korea  has  been  the  most  signally" 
blessed  of  all  for  many  years.  Apostolic  conditions  have 
prevailed.  The  outpouring's  of  the  Holy  Spirit  have  amazed 
the  workers  as  in  the  days  of  old.  We  hear  many  anecdotes 
proving  that  literally  signs  and  wonders  have  followed  those 
who  believe.  Here  is  a  sample  from  a  most  creditable 
source. 

Last  evening  during  a  most  delightful  dinner  hour  in  the 
hospitable  home  of  Dr.  Underwood,  we  heard  the  following: 
A  few  years  ago  a  certain  elder  in  a  Christian  church,  out 
in  a  country  village,  died,  or  to  all  appearances  died.  After 
a  good  many  hours,  whilst  preparations  for  the  funeral  were 
being  made,  he  came  to  life  and  sat  up,  to  the  amazement 
of  his  friends.  They  said  to  him,  "We  thought  you  were 
dead."  He  replied,  "I  have  been  dead."  They  asked  him 
where  had  he  been.  He  told  them  that  he  had  died  and 
gone  to  the  door  of  a  beautiful  place  which  he  was  informed 
was  heaven.  He  was  about  to  enter  when  an  angel  stopped 

him,  just  as  he  also  saw  another  Christian,  Bro. ,  who 

lived  in  a  neighboring  village,  go  in.  "Why  can  I  not  go  in  ?" 
he  asked  the  angel;  "you  have  just  let  Bro.  —  -  go  in?" 
The  angel  answered,  "Yes,  but  Bro.  -  —has  been  faith- 
ful ;  you  have  not  been  faithful.  Go  back  and  commence  life 

again."  Not  long  after  it  v/as  ascertained  that  Bro. 

had  died  in  the  neighboring  village  at  exactly  the  same  time 
that  the  elder  had,  and  had  been  buried  soon  thereafter. 
The  church  elder  is  still  living. 

The  above  incident  is  well  known  in  the  locality  where  it 
occurred,  but  the  missionaries  have  not  advertised  it,  lest  a 
possible  misguided  enthusiasm,  based  upon  it,  may  lead 
astray  inexperienced  converts. 

One  of  the  eminent  missionaries  of  Korea,  to  whom  I  had 
an  introduction,  and  who  has  helped  us  much,  was  about 
thirty-two  years  ago  preparing  himself  for  the  missionary 
field  in  India.  Yet  very  often  the  thought  of  Korea  kept,  at 
first  much  against  his  wishes,  intruding  itself  into  his  mind. 
His  arrangements  were  finally  consummated,  except  that  he 
must  vvrite  a  letter  definitely  accepting  a  station  in  India. 


50  A  QUAKER  DIARY  IN  THE  ORIENT. 

He  wrote  the  letter  and  was,  at  the  letter-box,  just  going  to 
post  it,  in  New  York  City,  when  he  clearly  heard  a  voice  be- 
hind him  saying,  "What  about  Korea  ?"  He  looked  around, 
but  saw  no  one,  left  the  letter-box  and  decided  that  he  would 
test  this  strange  call  once  more.  He  went  to  the  office  of 
the  Mission  Board,  where  the  elderly  Secretary  sat  reading 
a  letter.  The  latter  looked  up  from  his  correspondence  and 
remarked :  "If  ever  there  was  coincidence  in  God's  work,  here 
it  is.  I  am  just  reading  a  letter  from  the  young  man  we  had 
expected  to  send  to  Korea,  informing  me  that  he  can  not  go. 
Just  at  the  same  moment  you,  who  want  to  go  there,  come 
in.  Get  your  medical  certificate  and  we  will  see  if  we  can 
send  you."  Soon  thereafter  the  young  man  left  for  his  work 
in  this  land,  and  it  has  been  wonderfully  blessed. 

We  had  a  delightful  meeting  for  worship  with  about  125 
girls  and  young  women  in  the  Presbyterian  Girls'  School  this 
morning.  We  afterward  dined  with  John  F.  Genso  and  wife 
and  others.  The  girls  had  prepared  a  hymn  in  our  honor  to 
the  tune  of  "America,"  and  sang  it  at  the  close  of  the  meet- 
ing. 

Eleventh  Month  22. 

First  day :  At  the  Korean  First  Presbyterian  Church  to- 
day we  met  with  about  250  native  Christians.  I  spoke  a 
short  time. 

The  union  services  of  missionaries  and  their  families,  as 
far  as  I  have  ever  seen,  are  in  all  lands  seasons  of  spiritual 
uplift  to  the  workers  visiting  them.  This  afternoon  we 
faced  a  splendid  group  of  men  and  women,  some  150  in  num- 
ber, of  the  description  referred  to.  It  was  intended  to  be 
held  as  a  conservative  Friends'  meeting,  and  was  so,  except 
that  two  hymns  were  proposed  and  sung  from  the  body  of 
the  congregation,  but  it  was  the  meeting  of  these  dear  breth- 
ren and  sisters  as  well  as  mine;  they  did  not  quite  under- 
stand, and  I  did  not  feel  badly  about  it,  as  possibly  the 
hymns  without  an  organ  helped  to  lift  them,  who  rely  so 
much  on  music,  into  the  heavenly  places  into  which  we  were 
all  introduced. 

At  my  request  their  regular  collection  was  deferred  until 
the  close  of  the  service,  and  then  it  was  proposed  to  apply 


"TEMPLE  OF  HEAVEN,"  SEOUL. 


KOREAN  COUNTRY  LIFE  AND  MOURNING  HATS. 


KOREA.  51 

it  to  the  relief  of  non-combatants. 

This  brought  out  numerous  expressions  revealing  the 
deep  feeling  of  those  present  on  the  subject.  I  had  previ- 
ously commenced  a  sermon,  determined  not  to  say  a  word 
about  the  peace  question,  of  which  I  often  get  tired,  but, 
before  I  concluded,  realized  that  my  own  peace  consisted 
in  also  speaking  somewhat  about  the  sins  of  militarism  and 
sorrows  of  non-combatants.  This  I  had  been  favored  to  do 
in  connection  with  the  tenor  of  the  discourse,  without  low- 
ering the  power  or  weight  of  it.  It  is  always  most  impor- 
tant for  the  preacher  to  make  instant  response  to  the  lead- 
ings of  God. 

Eleventh  Month  23. 

Happily  we  had  no  public  engagements  to-day,  as  stormy 
weather  prevailed. 

The  sights  in  Korean  congregations  are  very  novel  to  a 
man  from  the  Occident.  A  curtain  hung  on  a  cord  about 
eight  feet  high  and  running  from  the  pulpit  to  the  rear  of 
the  room  separates  the  sexes.  The  women  and  girls  sit  on 
the  floor,  clad  in  wide  Turkish  trousers,  drawn  tightly  at  the 
ankles,  and  in  voluminous  skirts.  Their  heads  are  covered 
with  peaked  red,  fur-lined  caps.  The  men  also  sit  on  the 
floor,  mostly  arrayed  in  long  white  robes.  Many  wear  their 
funny  little  black  hats  during  the  service.  These  hats  are 
much  the  shape  of  the  tall  hats  of  civilization,  but  are  much 
smaller  and  made  of  horsehair.  They  are  perched  on  top  of 
the  heads  of  the  wearers,  and  are  fastened  by  bands  brought 
under  the  chin.  The  sincere  fervor  of  these  Christians 
would  well  put  to  shame  some  in  the  home-land  whose  attire 
may  be  very  grotesque.  These  Koreans  are  indefatigable 
Bible  students.  They  are  strong  in  prayer.  They  really 
consecrate  their  lives  to  Christ.  Most  of  the  congregations 
do  not  depend  on  funds  from  America,  but  are  absolutely 
self-supporting.  They  are  even  sending  missionaries  of 
their  own  into  China. 

Eleventh  Month  29. 

Almost  one  week  has  elapsed  since  the  last  date  recorded 
in  this  diary.     On  the  24th  inst.  we  visited  the  Severence 


52  A  QUAKER  DIARY  IN  THE  ORIENT. 

Hospital.  It  brought  to  mind  the  needs  of  our  Friends' 
Tokyo  Mission  in  this  respect.  Some  of  the  surplus  family 
expenditure  of  our  Friends  in  Philadelphia  yearly  meeting, 
or  of  even  the  plainer  sort  of  Christians  anywhere,  would 
easily  alleviate  the  sufferings  of  thousands  of  distressed 
people  in  Tokyo,  if  applied  to  medical  mission  work,  through 
the  agency  of  that  Mission.  Above  all,  through  such  physi- 
cal means  is  the  Gospel  carried  to  longing  hearts. 

After  the  visit  to  the  hospital  we  dined  with  Dr.  Mills  and 
wife,  she  being,  it  is  believed,  the  only  Friend  in  Korea. 
Then  we  met  about  eighteen  of  the  principal  men  connected 
with  the  civil  and  educational  administration  of  Korea  and 
Seoul  at  the  Y.  M.  C.  A.  largely  in  connection  with  an  inspec- 
tion of  the  fine  new  buildings.  I  embraced  an  opportunity 
to  make  a  short  appeal  for  the  development  of  the  spiritual 
as  well  as  the  material  interests  of  the  people  committed  to 
the  care  of  the  officials  who  were  present.  It  was  well  re- 
ceived. 

In  the  evening  we  met  with  about  450  young  men  at  the 
Y.  M.  C.  A.  Both  W.  B.  H.  and  I  earnestly  entreated  them 
to  enter  into  the  Christian  life  and  accept  the  Lord  Jesus 
Christ  as  their  Savior.  About  85  per  cent,  of  those  present 
were  non-Christians.  They  listened  with  tense  interest. 

Beside  us  on  the  platform  sat  the  Korean  Y.  M.  C.  A. 
Secretary,  and  at  the  conclusion  of  the  meeting  he  most 
earnestly  addressed  the  congregation.  He  is  an  orator.  Yi 
Sang  Chai  has  had  an  extraordinary  experience.  Years  ago 
he  was  Secretary  of  the  Korean  Legation  at  Washington, 
D.  C.,  proud  of  his  learning  and  seeming  ability  to  confute 
the  followers  of  Christ.  Finally  as  a  result  of  a  revolution 
he  was  thrown  into  a  miserable  prison,  where  his  son  was 
tortured  before  his  eyes,  and  he  daily  expected  death.  Some 
of  the  missionaries  sought  the  veteran  statesman,  but  he 
resisted  their  appeals  to  seek  Christ.  One  day  a  sense  of 
his  sins  and  need  of  a  Savior  burst  into  his  soul.  He  accept- 
ed Jesus  as  that  Savior.  He  immediately  comrr.  enced  to 
preach  Christ  to  the  other  prisoners.  Since  then  his  life  has 
been  devoted  to  bringing  young  men  to  the  Lord  whom  he 
once  defied.  He  now,  in  his  old  age,  after  at  one  period 


KOREA.  53 

hating  life  and  feeling  through  with  the  world,  has  charge 
of  the  religious  work  of  the  Seoul  Y.  M.  C.  A.  and  brings 
many  converts  to  the  Master  whom  he  so  ardently  loves. 

On  the  29th  inst.,  at  the  conclusion  of  the  service  in  the 
Korean  M.  E.  Church,  a  new  church-member  made  an  offer- 
ing of  his  spectacles,  which  cost  three  yen  ($1.50),  and 
which  was  all  he  had  to  give  to  the  work  of  the  Lord.  Some 
may  smile  at  this,  but  the  incident  is  typical  of  the  willing- 
ness among  Christians,  everywhere  in  this  country,  to  sur- 
render all  they  have  to  Christ. 

That  night  I  was  taken  ill,  but  am  now  rapidly  improving. 
Happily  our  hotel  is  a  new  one,  beautifully  planned  and  con- 
ducted, and  very  comfortable.  How  true  it  is  that  the  Lord's 
mercies  are  deftly  and  lovingly  mingled  with  the  trials  that 
of ttimes  harass  his  people !  Good  Bishop  Harris,  of  lovable 
personality — he  really  is  as  young  as  a  boy — has  called  to 
see  us  every  day. 

The  sights  of  Korea  are  wonderful  to  a  stranger.  The  im- 
mense "mourning  hats"  are  intended  to  indicate  shame  be- 
cause of  the  loss  of  near  relatives,  and  they  are  seen  every- 
where. The  oxen  carry  huge  bundles  of  brush  along  the 
country  highways.  The  people  look  dreamy  as  they  sit  and 
smoke  in  the  winter  sunlight. 


VII. 
IN  PEKING. 


Twelfth  Month  5. 


On  the  30th  ult.  we  left  Seoul  for  Peking.  The  journey 
required  four  days  and  three  nights.  The  days  were  passed 
in  fairly  comfortable  coaches;  and  the  nights  were,  in  that 
region  unfrequented  by  foreign  travelers,  not  so  pleasant. 
Terribly  cold  weather  greeted  us  in  Manchuria.  At  our  last 
resting-place,  Shanhaikwan,  a  miserable  experience  from  the 
coldness  of  our  rooms  awaited  us.  In  the  main  the  trip  did 
us  good  and*  afforded  a  much-needed  opportunity  to  relax 
from  the  exercises  connected  with  our  work. 

The  sorrowful  poverty  of  the  people  was  continually  in 
evidence.  The  strange  and  primitive  habits  of  the  popula- 
tion were  a  source  of  continual  interest.  The  station  scenes, 
sometimes  with  out-door  restaurants,  where  the  cooking  of 
uncertain  concoctions  on  the  station  platforms  was  observed, 
were  full  of  excitement  and  life.  My  wife  was  almost  the 
only  white  woman  we  saw  in  these  four  days  of  travel.  She 
was  a  source  of  great  curiosity  to  the  throngs  that  some- 
times peered  into  the  railway  car  windows.  Now,  in  Peking 
new  scenes  and  work  await  us. 

The  past  two  days  have  been  largely  devoted  to  interview- 
ing officials  connected  with  the  Christian  schools  and  uni- 
versities, and  others,  and  making  engagements  for  next 
week.  An  open  door  awaits  us.  Our  errands  around  this 
city  of  great  distances  are  performed  by  means  of  rickshaws. 
The  cost  is  about  ten  cents  per  hour  American  money.  It 
is  a  favor  that  lovely,  bracing  weather  has  made  this  pre- 
paratory work  so  agreeable. 

To-day  we  were  glad  to  meet  with  E.  W.  Thwing,  the 
China  Secretary  of  the  International  Reform  Bureau.  He 
is  a  great  fighter  on  behalf  of  better  moral  conditions  in  the 
republic.  His  home  and  office  are  reached  by  a  circuitous 


AMBER  MERCHANTS  ON  MISSIONARY  PORCH,  SEOUL. 


CHINESE  ARCHITECTURE  is  RICH  IN  DETAIL. 


IN  PEKING.  55 

route  through  weird  gateways  and  between  high  stone  walls 
off  the  main  highway.  We  also  conferred  with  the  Amer-- 
ican  Ambassador,  Dr.  Reinsh.  Both  he  and  Dr.  Thwing 
were  able  to  offer  suggestions  connected  with  the  address  to 
the  people  of  China,  which  I  bring  from  our  Church  Peace 
Committee  of  the  Pacific  Coast. 

We  notice  many  points  of  difference  between  Japan  and 
China.  The  people  in  China  dress  almost  in  one  color — blue. 
There  are  few  women  and  children  in  the  streets.  Long  fur 
overcoats  or  padded  robes  are  worn  by  the  men  at  this  sea- 
son of  the  year  here  in  the  North.  The  street  scenes  in  Pe- 
king baffle  description.  Thousands  of  rickshaws  stream  up 
and  down  the  principal  streets,  for  there  is  not  a  tram-car  in 
this  city  of  1,000,000  people.  Some  people  ride  on  mules, 
some  in  the  little  comfortless,  covered,  non-springing  two- 
wheeled  carts  wherein  the  occupants  crowd,  bowed  out  of 
human  shape.  Occasionally  a  sleepy  Chinaman  rides  by  in 
a  coupe  which  has  two  men  in  front,  and  an  outrider  stand- 
ing on  the  rear  of  the  vehicle.  Trains  of  big  camels  with 
their  supercilious  lips  push  their  way  through  the  motley 
throngs,  and  at  intervals  the  toot  of  a  motor-car  horn  warns 
all  hands  to  the  unpaved  sidewalk.  The  impassive  faces  out- 
side of  the  working  classes  much  impress  me.  Funny  little 
shops  and  gay  signboards  abound  on  every  hand. 

One  thing  we  do  not  yet  hear  in  China  which  annoyed  us 
in  Japan.  It  is  the  sharp  click  of  the  night  watchman's 
instrument  as  he  performs  his  hourly  rounds.  Yet  I  con- 
fess that  that  ear-penetrating  sound  has  its  advantages.  It 
warns  the  evil-doer  to  desist  in  his  operations  until  the  po- 
liceman has  moved  on.  It  keeps  the  patrolman  from  contact 
with  the  prospective  evil-doer,  and  thus  invites  safety  for 
the  minion  of  the  law.  Both  parties  should  be  perfectly  sat- 
isfied. 

I  was  profoundly  interested  at  seeing  this  week  in  a  Chi- 
nese graveyard — these  family  cemeteries  dot  the  landscape 
everywhere — a  whole  family  bowed  to  the  earth  with  their 
heads  literally  buried  in  the  soft,  freshly  heaped  mound. 
They  were  motionless,  as  thus  engaged,  whilst  two  little  chil- 
dren stood  by  and  wonderingly  looked  on.  I  thought  of  that 


56  A  QUAKER  DIARY  IN  THE  ORIENT. 

splendid  expression  of  our  Lord's,  'This  is  life  eternal  to 
know  Thee  the  only  true  God  and  Jesus  Christ  whom  Thou 
hast  sent."  When  China  emerges  from  the  unsatisfying  re- 
ligions, or  superstitions,  that  oppress  her,  into  the  light  of 
the  Gospel  of  Christ,  she  will  develop  into  a  happiness  of 
which  her  philosophers  and  statesmen  have  not  dreamed. 

Twelfth  Month  7. 

Last  evening — First-day — we  met  with  '1000  students  at 
the  Peking  University.  It  was  laid  upon  me  to  present 
to  them  their  individual  responsibility  with  respect  to  the 
moral,  material,  and  spiritual  uplift  of  China.  Spiritual  re- 
generation will  be  the  only  foundation  upon  which  the  other 
conditions  can  be  constructed.  They  must  follow  the  Chris- 
tian nations  not  in  those  things  wherein  the  professors  of 
Christ  have  brought  shame  to  His  name,  but  in  the  develop- 
ment of  the  grand  spiritual  forces  whereon  Christian  civili- 
zation has  been  built.  Imitation  of  Christianity  will  avail 
but  little.  The  young  people  whom  I  addressed  must  them- 
selves experience  the  regenerating  work  of  the  Spirit  of  God 
in  their  own  hearts.  They  must  pass  through  the  gates  of 
repentance,  and  submit  to  the  power  of  Christ  in  their  own 
lives,  and  be  filled  with  the  spirit  of  the  Savior  before  they 
can  do  all  that  they  yearn  to  do  for  China.  Then  in  the 
broad  vision  that  He  gives  His  people  they  will  see  the  needs 
and  sufferings  of  those  about  them,  and  participate  in  the 
splendid  Christian  patriotism  that  China,  and  all  the  world, 
so  badly  needs  to-day.  I  concluded  with  a  solemn  appeal  to 
humble  themselves  as  little  children  that  they  may  thus  see 
and  enter  the  Kingdom  of  God.  The  Divine  Spirit  Himself 
was  in  our  midst  at  this  meeting. 

I  was  tired  after  the  meeting,  and  we  did  not  get  back  to 
dinner  until  half  past  eight  o'clock. 

In  the  afternoon  we  had  been  at  the  Y.  M.  C.  A.  It  was 
the  gift  of  John  Wanamaker,  and  is  a  fine  building.  His 
gifts  to  this  work  in  some  of  the  large  cities  of  the  Orient 
are  valuable  beyond  human  appreciation.  We  had  had  the 
noon  meal  with  John  S.  Burgess  and  wife,  once  of  Morris- 
ville,  Pa.,  who  are  acquainted  with  many  of  our  Friends 
near  Philadelphia.  He  is  connected  with  the  Peking  Y.  M. 


IN  PEKING.  57 

C.  A.  Many  hundreds  of  young  men  are  in  the  Bible  classes 
under  his  supervision,  and  many  of  them  are  non-Christians. 
But  adopting  the  faith  of  Jesus  generally  succeeds  the  seri- 
ous investigating  of  it. 

I  have  been  sorry  to  learn  of  the  illness  of  my  interpreter 
in  Seoul  when  we  were  there.  He  has  broken  down  under 
the  stress  of  a  revival  in  the  church  in  which  he  is  pastor. 
He  is  a  fine  man,  and,  I  have  been  told,  would  even  on  winter 
mornings  go  out  into  the  hills,  hours  before  daybreak,  and 
pray  for  his  people  and  country.  I  do  not  forget  our  first 
interview  with  him,  when,  telling  a  little  about  his  personal 
history,  he  suddenly  exclaimed  with  illuminated  countenance 
and  powerful  emphasis,  "I  have  been  redeemed  by  the  blood 
of  Jesus." 

Twelfth  Month  8. 

A  shopping  expedition  consumed  part  of  yesterday.  Back 
into  the  narrow  streets  and  up  crooked  alley-ways  are  found 
some  of  the  shops  and  factories  that  have  made  chinaware 
famous  for  centuries.  In  them  you  can  purchase  choice 
works  of  art  almost  in  the  same  rooms  where  painstaking 
artists  ply  brush  and  pencil.  It  is  all  exceedingly  interest- 
ing. 

Among  many  merchants  in  Korea  and  China,  even  in  the 
lobby  of  our  hotel,  the  one-price  system  does  not  prevail. 
The  vendors  of  bric-a-brac,  jade  and  embroidery  ask  big 
prices  and  are  certainly  disappointed  in  the  buyer  and  seem 
to  feel  that  the  transaction  is  "no  game"  if  he  fails  to  offer 
much  less  for  the  goods  than  is  at  first  demanded.  "What 
you  give  ?"  is  the  almost  inevitable  question  that  quickly  fol- 
lows a  declination  to  purchase.  "Friend  Harvey"  in  a  shop 
recently  bid  $5  for  jade  that  was  offered  to  him  at  first  for 
$25,  and  at  the  last  moment  was  surprised  to  have  his  offer 
accepted.  He  declares  that  he  does  not  now  wish  that  he 
had  tendered  only  $3  for  that  jade ! 

Fully  500  young  men  were  addressed  by  me  last  evening 
at  a  Y.  M.  C.  A.  rally.  Most  of  them  were  non-Christians. 
The  historical  proofs  of  the  verity  of  the  religion  of  Christ, 
as  witnessed  in  the  fulfillment  of  prophecy  regarding  Him, 
and  His  hidden  yet  definite  work  in  the  hearts  of  men,  was 


58  A  QUAKER  DIARY  IN  THE  ORIENT. 

my  theme.  The  secretaries  connected  with  this  Y.  M.  C.  A. 
are  overworked,  and  the  meeting  called  at  7  p.  m.  did  not 
commence  until  almost  8  o'clock.  We  left  before  it  conclud- 
ed, but  even  then  did  not  sit  down  to  dinner  until  after  9  p.  m. 
The  hotel  dinner  does  not  commence  until  8  o'clock,  which 
for  evening  work  in  very  inconvenient. 

We  dined  to-day  with  Dr.  C.  C.  Fenn,  President  of  the 
Union  Theological  College,  and  in  the  early  afternoon  had  a 
very  satisfactory  meeting  with  the  divinity  students.  How 
important  it  is  that  the  future  representatives  of  Christ  in 
the  Orient  be  fully  imbued  with  His  Spirit  and  know  their 
ministrations  to  be  developed  and  guided  by  Him.  Nothing- 
short  of  themselves  realizing  that  the  faith  that  they  will 
be  called  upon  to  preach  is  a  blessed  experience  in  their  own 
lives  will  suffice  in  the  difficulties  connected  with  their  la- 
bors of  the  future. 

During  the  Boxer  troubles  of  1900  the  Fenn  family  fled  to 
the  British  legation  and  resided  there  with  many  others  for 
52  days,  and  during  that  time  of  trial  a  little  daughter  was 
so  desperately  ill  that  she  was  not  expected  to  live  for  weeks 
together.  Over  220  missionaries  in  China  sealed  their  testi- 
mony to  Christ  with  their  blood,  besides  many  native  Chris- 
tians, during  those  terrible  days.  In  the  compound  of  the 
Union  Theological  College  we  to-day  stood  by  the  ruin  of  a 
tower  of  the  former  Presbyterian  Church  that  was  destroyed 
at  that  period. 

The  reprisals  made  by  Christian  nations  and  their  soldiers 
after  the  siege  of  Peking  did  small  credit  to  the  profession 
of  the  religion  of  Jesus.  Admiral  E.  H.  Seymour,  of  the 
British  navy,  in  his  autobiography,  remarks :  "I  should  think 
that  the  booty  taken  at  Peking  in  1900  was  as  valuable  as 
any  so  got  in  the  lifetime  of  the  present  generation." 

Often  we  see  funerals  in  Peking.  The  largest  so  far  ob- 
served was  met  to-day  on  Hatamen  Street.  It  was  a  great 
procession,  blocks  in  length,  with  beautifully  embroidered 
banners  and  other  paraphernalia  borne  aloft,  whilst  priests, 
drums  and  a  motley  host  lent  eclat  to  the  occasion.  The 
catafalque  was  quite  thirty  feet  long,  of  a  brilliant  red  and 
other  colors,  and  very  massive  and  heavy.  Some  thirty  or 


THE  ARCHITECTURE  AT  THE  LLAMA  TEMPLE,  PEKING,  Is  VERY 
BEAUTIFUL. 


SOME  PRIESTS  AT  THE  LLAMA  TEMPLE. 


IN  PEKING.  59 

forty  men  staggered  under  the  load.  Fully  150  or  200  men 
must  have  been  in  the  parade.  Beggars  are  employed  to 
swell  the  assumed  grief  of  the  well-to-do.  So  much  for~the 
funerals  of  the  rich.  The  converse  of  this  is  seen  when  the 
poor  are  buried.  Even  children  under  five  years  of  age  are 
— we  are  informed — considered  to  have  no  souls  and  when 
they  die,  carts  come  round  early  in  the  mornings,  and  with- 
out any  signs  of  respect,  the  little  bodies  are  hauled  away. 

Twelfth  Month  9. 

We  took  part  of  this  morning  to  ride  out  to  the  "Temple 
of  Heaven"  where  at  the  times  of  the  winter  solstice  for 
many  years  the  emperors  of  the  old  regime  would  repair  to 
offer  sacrifices  to  Heaven.  This  represented  as  near  a  spir- 
itual concept  of  religion  as  China  has  afforded.  The  prac- 
tice has  been  discontinued  since  the  establishment  of  the  re- 
public, but  it  is  understood  that  the  President,  Yuan  Shik- 
Khi,  expects  to  reinstate  the  ancient  ritual  in  person  the 
coming  season.  The  most  imposing  feature  is  the  great  pa- 
vilion, or  dome,  lavishly  decorated  with  blues,  greens  and 
gilt,  and  surrounded  by  three  tiers  of  beautifully  carved  bal- 
ustrades of  white  marble.  The  whole  place  is  weather-worn, 
whilst  weeds  intrude  into  this  sacred  place  of  by-gone  days. 

After  dinner  at  Dr.  Lowry's,  W.  B.  H.  and  I  proceeded  to 
the  compound  of  the  American  Board,  where  the  young  peo- 
ple connected  with  the  different  schools  of  the  mission  and 
some  others  met  with  us — about  250  persons  altogether.  It 
was  a  good  meeting.  My  friend  expressed  his  earnest  inter- 
est in  those  present,  and  I  followed  at  some  length.  The 
silent  part  of  the  meeting  manifested  spiritual  life  and  an 
uplift  of  the  congregation  in  reverent  heart-prayer.  Here, 
as  in  so  many  other  missions,  those  in  charge  are  full  of  hap- 
piness and  hope  in  connection  with  their  noble  work  for 
Christ. 

Twelfth  Month  10. 

Most  of  to-day  was  consumed  in  a  trip  to  Tsing  Hua  Col- 
lege, the  American  indemnity  School,  a  few  miles  out  of  the 
city.  Here  about  400  students  eagerly  listened  to  a  dis- 
course on  "Internationalism,"  which  I  delivered.  Afterward 
we  were  entertained  by  the  Dean,  Chao  Guo-Tsai,  and  his 


60  A  QUAKER  DIARY  IN  THE  ORIENT. 

charming  wife  in  their  home.     Our  return  to  Peking  was  a 
cold  experience. 

At  the  close  of  the  Boxer  troubles  the  United  States  was 
awarded  indemnity  said  to  be  to  the  extent  of  $24,000,000, 
which  sum  was  far  in  excess  of  the  actual  amount  due 
by  China  as  a  result  of  damage  and  loss  incurred  by  our 
country.  Our  government,  we  are  told,  refunded  some 
$13,000,000  to  China  with  the  understanding  that  the  monies 
returned  be  spent  in  the  education  of  young  Chinese  in 
the  United  States  and  preparation  therefor.  The  beautiful 
modern  institution  which  we  visited  to-day  is  part  of  this 
noble  scheme  on  behalf  of  international  justice  and  friend- 
ship. The  lads  were  a  keen  lot  and  required  no  interpreter. 
They  are  selected  from  every  province  in  the  great  republic 
of  400,000,000  souls,  and  the  possibilities  growing  out  of 
their  ability  and  future  educational  advantages  can  hardly 
be  estimated.  The  College  Y.  M.  C.  A.  has  200  Bible  stu- 
dents. It  was  a  privilege  to  plead  with  this  important  stu- 
dent body  on  behalf  of  the  peace  which  our  Lord  certainly 
intends  should  reign  among  civilized  peoples. 

Twelfth  Month  11. 

This  morning  we  were  engaged  in  opening  the  way  for 
letters  of  introduction  to  Canton.  W.  B.  H.  feels  jealous  lest 
we  trust  too  much  in  such  aids  and  not  enough  in  the  Lord. 
I  tell  him  that  whilst  recognizing  his  thought  in  the  matter 
I  at  the  same  time  feel  that  such  letters  with  all  the  un- 
questioned help  they  bring  us,  are  so  many  evidences  that 
the  Lord  is  making  way  for  us,  and  are  calculated  to  encour- 
age us  to  still  further  rely  on  the  divine  power.  Probably 
we  think  about  the  same,  after  all. 

We  fill  up  a  few  cracks  in  our  time  with  a  little  sight- 
seeing. The  temple  of  Confucius  is  a  place  of  great  inter- 
est. Here  is  the  Hall  of  Classics,  a  large  open  square  or 
plaza,  surrounded  by  buildings  in  which  are  placed  the  great 
stone  tablets  with  the  Chinese  classics  carved  upon  them. 
In  the  center  is  the  Emperor's  Hall  of  Examination.  A  curi- 
ously inverted  sun-dial  records  the  time  as  accurately  as  do 
our  flat  ones.  Near  this  temple,  with  its  conservation  of 
Chinese  literature,  is  the  Llama  Temple.  It  too  is  made  up 


IN  PEKING.  61 

of  a  series  of  buildings  of  distinctly  Chinese  architecture, 
with  ancient  elaborate  carvings,  and  various  colored  lacquer 
work.  Some  of  the  huge  wooden  pillars  and  great  doorways 
are  impressive.  I  secured  some  good  snap-shots  here.  In 
one  building  probably  about  one  hundred  boys  attired  in 
yellow  robes  were  shrilly  chanting  prayers,  but  their  actions 
did  not  indicate  any  religious  feeling,  as  we  count  such 
things.  Nearby  some  priests  performed  their  worship, 
which  consisted  of  beating  a  big  drum  and  ringing  a  bell. 
They  were  a  poor  looking  lot  of  men.  We  did  not  see  a 
single  worshipper  besides.  It  is  very  different  in  Japan, 
where  men  and  women  constantly  resort  to  the  temples  and 
kneel  before  their  images  and,  aloud  or  in  silence,  pray.  In 
Peking  there  are  practically  few  temples,  and  these  are  de- 
serted. Instead  a  dirty  crowd  of  priests  or  boys  disgust  the 
visitor  by  intruding  on  his  path  and  vociferously  demanding 
coppers  at  every  doorway  he  passes  through.  Everything 
in  these  places,  so  far  as  we  have  observed,  except  the  arch- 
itecture, is  vulgar. 

Twelfth  Month  13. 

Peking  is  a  marvelous  city.  I  like  it.  Even  the  great 
wall  of  seventeen  miles  that  surrounds  it  is  extraordinary. 
It  is  from  60  to  100  feet  high,  and  about  50  feet  wide.  The 
huge  towers  over  the  gateways  give  some  idea  of  what  Pe- 
king must  have  been  in  the  days  of  her  pride  and  glory. 

Last  evening  a  young  missionary  was  telling  of  the  great 
eagerness  in  his  district  for  Western  learning.  Everywhere 
in  that  province  the  authorities  are  seeking  to  pass  the  con- 
trol of  the  public  schools  into  the  hands  of  the  missionaries, 
and  desire  that  the  Bible  be  included  as  a  text-book,  which 
is  done  as  far  as  practicable.  But  the  missionaries*  facili- 
ties, both  with  respect  to  men  and  money,  are  altogether  in- 
adequate to  this  great  opportunity  to  christianize  China. 
In  this  same  province  every  resident  missionary  was  killed 
not  many  years  ago ! 

Is  not  such  an  attitude  in  China  a  challenge  to  the 
churches  at  home  ? 

In  the  evening  I  addressed  about  300  people  on  "Peace" 
at  the  American  Board  Compound. 


VIII. 
OVERTIME  IN  PEKING. 

Twelfth  Month  14. 

We  do  not  start  for  Hankow  to-day  as  anticipated,  my 
wife  having  sprained  her  ankle  very  badly.  I  feel  that  a 
divine  Providence  may  be  over-ruling  our  activities  by  this 
means,  for  our  good  and  the  furtherance  of  our  work. 

Last  night  we  met  with  over  100  medical  students  at  the 
Union  Medical  College  of  Peking.  It  was  a  fine  group  of 
men,  and  through  an  interpreter  I  addressed  them  for  about 
an  hour,  and  was  followed  by  W.  B.  H.  with  a  few  words. 
We  emphasized  the  possibilities  of  their  being  instrumental 
in  helping  the  spiritual  needs  of  others  in  their  future  labors 
as  they  themselves  receive  and  obey  the  Spirit  of  Christ. 

The  longer  I  stay  in  the  Far  East  the  more  I  hear  of  the 
fruits  of  militarism.  At  the  American  barracks  in  a  certain 
city  in  the  Orient,  where  services  are  held  once  a  week  by 
Christian  workers,  with  those  few  soldiers  who  are  willing 
to  come,  some  of  the  regular  attenders  did  not  appear  one 
evening.  They  were  reported  as  being  in  the  lock-up.  The 
ladies  who  assisted  at  the  services  asked  what  the  men  had 
done,  and  were  told  that  "it  was  too  bad  to  tell  about."  I 
often  think  that  if  church  members  who  sometimes  inno- 
cently and  sentimentally  laud  the  presumed  benefits  or  need 
of  barrack  and  war-ship  life,  knew  the  real  demoralization 
to  young  manhood  and  womanhood  growing  out  of  the  un- 
natural system,  they  would  abhor  and  protest  against  a 
scheme  which  in  its  very  essence  and  fruits  neutralizes  the 
mission  and  labors  of  the  churches. 

Here  is  another  instance :  Unavailing  efforts,  from  no  ac- 
countable cause,  had  been  made  by  some  Christian  workers 
in  a  Chinese  city  to  secure  the  attendance  at  their  Bible 
classes  of  the  students  in  a  certain  large  high  school.  The 
mystery  was  explained  recently  when  at  a  dinner  the  prin- 
cipal of  the  school  in  question  was  heard  to  comment  on 


OVERTIME  IN  PEKING.  63 

Christians  and  the  European  war  in  these  words:  "They 
talk  smoothly  to  us,  but  when  they  lay  off  their  cloak^of 
Christianity,  they  are  ravening  wolves."  The  inconsistency 
of  many  "Christians"  with  respect  to  militarism  can  not 
appeal  to  the  "heathen"  mind  and  constitutes  a  serious  han- 
dicap on  missionary  effort. 

Again,  I  heard  to-day  of  a  young  and  most  capable  Chi- 
nese Christian  who  recently  spoke  in  terms  of  extreme  pes- 
simism in  connection  with  the  surrender  of  honor,  noble 
ideals,  and  civilization  as  illustrated  in  the  actions  of  the 
military  forces  of  the  different  nations  now  engaged  in  war 
with  each  other.  The  very  spiritual  foundations  of  this 
young  man  are  being  rudely  shaken.  Can  we  wonder  at 
this? 

We  met  with  about  40  missionaries  at  the  home  of  Dr. 
Goodrich  last  evening.  Behind  grim  stone  walls,  and 
reached  by  several  courtyards,  was  found  a  beautiful  draw- 
ing-room combining  charming  Chinese  decoration  with 
American  comfort,  whilst  within  was  warmth,  fellowship, 
love,  and  prayer.  Upon  request  I  spoke  a  short  time  regard- 
ing the  importance  of  the  workers  for  Christ  adhering  to 
the  original  sense  of  the  divine  call  into  His  service  and  to 
the  spiritual  power  that  first  attended  their  ministry  for 
Him.  Having  commenced  in  the  spirit,  shall  we  be  made 
perfect  through  the  flesh? 

Twelfth  Month  15. 

This  afternoon  we  had  a  genuine  Friends'  meeting  with 
seventy  pupils  at  the  Boys'  School  of  the  Presbyterian  Mis- 
sion. The  President,  W.  H.  Gleysteen,  is  deeply  interested 
in  the  spiritual  as  well  as  the  educational  life  of  those  under 
his  care.  He  told  us,  after  the  meeting,  how  recently  a 
pupil  dying  of  consumption  declared,  "I  have  no  sickness  in 
my  heart — my  sickness  is  all  in  my  body."  Not  long  ago  a 
boy  came  to  him  and,  with  tears  in  his  eyes,  exclaimed,  "I 
wish  all  the  boys  in  this  school  knew  Jesus."  We  hear  of 
numerous  instances  indicating  the  possibilities  of  the  Holy 
Spirit  as  He  operates  on  the  hearts  of  the  new  converts  in 
this  materialistic  land. 


64  A  QUAKER  DIARY  IN  THE  ORIENT. 

Twelfth  Month  18. 

We  are  now  waiting  day  by  day  for  the  recovery  of  my 
wife — her  naturally  happy  disposition  stands  us  all  in  good 
stead.  As  to  work,  there  is  little  we  can  do  with  the  ap- 
proach of  the  holiday  season,  and  examinations  are  now  on 
in  many  of  the  schools. 

Yesterday  I  extracted  great  joy  from  the  fact  that  a  new 
rickshaw  man  pulled  me  ahead  of  W.  B.  H.  That  was  a 
most  discerning  rickshaw  man.  Generally  in  these  coun- 
tries, where  a  portly  form  is  counted  as  of  great  value  and 
an  indication  of  prosperity,  my  good  friend  with  his  clerical, 
not  to  say  priestly,  appearance,  is  quickly  transferred  to  the 
head  of  our  little  procession  of  three.  He  is  the  man  unto 
whom  all  honor  is  naturally  accorded  in  other  respects.  I, 
with  my  starved  looks,  mostly  behave  with  becoming  mod- 
esty, but  was  right  glad  that  for  once  I  did  not  yesterday 
trail  in  the  rear. 

The  help  rendered  by  E.  W.  Thwing,  China  Secretary  of 
the  International  Reform  Bureau,  has  been  much  appreci- 
ated by  me  in  connection  with  the  dissemination  of  the  ad- 
dress to  the  people  of  China  from  our  Peace  Committee  of 
Pacific  Coast  Churches.  He  translated  it,  and  had  it  placed 
before  all  the  newspapers  of  the  country,  many  of  whom 
have  printed  it. 

E.  W.  Thwing  is  a  power  for  good  in  China.  He  is  thor- 
oughly hated  by  those  who  desire  to  perpetrate  opium  and 
gambling  in  the  country.  He  has  been  so  happy  as  to  enlist 
the  interest  and  sympathy  of  the  President  in  his  work,  who 
has  extended  to  him  many  evidences  of  his  support.  Opium 
selling  has  been  abolished  from  the  parts  of  the  Republic 
under  the  control  of  the  Government.  But  to  the  lasting 
shame  of  the  Christian  Powers  of  the  world  they  not  only 
fail  to  support  the  President  of  China,  but  permit  and  en- 
courage their  nationals  in  China  to  extend  the  traffic  in 
opium.  The  financial  gains  of  these  citizens  of  foreign 
"Christian"  countries  is  esteemed  of  more  importance  than 
the  moral  and  physical  conservation  of  the  Chinese.  In 
Shanghai  there  are  said  to  be  666  places  where  opium  is 
sold,  and  all  of  these  are  in  the  foreign  quarter  where  Euro- 


OVERTIME  IN  PEKING.  65 

peans  or  Americans  live,  and  which  is  under  their  civic  con- 
trol and  administration,  with  Englishmen  in  the  majority. 
Into  this  Christian  quarter  of  that  great  city  flock  the  Chi- 
nese to  purchase  the  deadly  drug  which  they  can  not  obtain 
in  other  parts  of  their  own  country. 

Unfortunately  the  labor  of  our  good  brother  Thwing, 
whilst  valued  by  the  missionaries  of  China,  and  whilst  ac- 
knowledged as  an  honor  to  their  great  movement,  is  little 
understood  or  appreciated  by  the  church  people  of  America. 
He  sorely  needs  the  financial  aid  which  they  would  otherwise 
be  glad  to  give  him.  He  sacrificed  his  all  to  the  great  re- 
forms which  his  unique  personality  is  so  splendidly  extend- 
ing among  the  millions  of  inhabitants  of  this  land.  May 
God  continue  to  bless  his  untiring  efforts ! 

Twelfth  Month  22. 

The  evening  of  last  First-day  found  us  at  the  barracks  of 
the  United  States  marine  corps  attached  to  the  American  Le- 
gation at  Peking.  Out  of  the  270  men  in  the  two  companies 
kept  there,  some  24  attended.  This  was  a  larger  number 
than  is  generally  expected  at  services  held  for  these  soldiers. 
I  earnestly  pleaded  with  them  to  come  out  boldly  and  con- 
fess Christ  and  endure  the  cross  for- His  sake.  Conversa- 
tion afterward  with  some  of  them  elicited  honest  expression 
that  led  the  way  into  a  deeper  personal  interest  in  them. 

Since  that  service  we  have  had  interesting  information 
concerning  other  men  in  the  United  States  army  in  China. 
One  man  has  recently  been  converted  through  the  faithful 
efforts  of  missionaries.  He  has  resigned  from  the  service, 
and  is  endeavoring  to  buy  himself  out,  under  the  profound 
conviction  that  if  ever  engaged  in  war  he  could  not,  as  a 
Christian,  kill  another.  He  told  his  commanding  officer  the 
exact  reason,  adding  that  he  would  shoot  his  gun  into  the 
air  under  such  circumstances,  and  would  expect  himself  to 
suffer  the  death  penalty  therefor. 

It  has  been  a  source  of  pleasure  to  meet  with  a  number 
of  young  Christian  soldiers  in  the  Orient.  One  young  man 
some  time  back  received  as  payment  for  a  gambling  debt  a 
Bible  from  a  comrade  who  had  nothing  else  to  give.  The  re- 
cipient of  the  precious  volume  commenced  to  read  it,  then 


66  A  QUAKER  DIARY  IN  THE  ORIENT. 

fell  into  the  hands  of  Christian  workers  among  the  soldiers, 
and  has  since  come  under  powerful  conviction  because  of  his 
past  life.  He  told  me  that  he  could  not  kill  a  man  now,  witn 
the  new  light  shed  on  his  pathway,  and  was  resolved  to  quit 
the  service  as  soon  as  he  could. 

We  have  met  in  the  Orient  a  young  soldier  who  desired  us 
to  furnish  him  with  religious  books.  In  conversation  he  re- 
ferred to  the  moral  dangers  of  barrack  life,  where  "the 
boys"  have  from  1 :30  p.  m.  to  10  p.  m.  to  go  and  do  as  they 
please.  He  said  that  fifty  per  cent,  of  the  young  men  have 
never  had  a  chance  to  speak  to  a  respectable  woman  since 
they  entered  the  service,  and  that  if  the  Christian  people  of 
America  knew  of  the  temptations  connected  with  the  mili- 
tary system  they  would  never  uphold  it,  no  matter  how 
much  they  felt  that  their  personal  wealth  was  protected 
or  increased  by  it.  This  voluntary  statement  by  him  har- 
monized with  my  personal  observations  in  many  lands. 

Today  by  special  appointment  of  Yaun-Shih-Khi,  the  Pres- 
ident of  China,  we  met  with  the  First  Master  of  Ceremonies, 
Wong  Kai-wen,  at  the  President's  Palace,  to  present  infor- 
mation and  facts  connected  with  the  address  I  brought  from 
the  Peace  Committee  of  Pacific  Coast  Churches,  and  also  to 
offer  any  message  that  we  might  desire  to  convey  to  the 
President.  We  had  about  half  an  hour's  frank  expression 
of  opinion  with  Wong  Kai-wen.  I  endeavored  to  place  be- 
fore him  the  sincerity  of  purpose  that  animated  many  of  the 
church  leaders  of  America  in  their  recent  opposition  to  the 
system  of  militarism,  supporting  my  assertions  by  facts  of 
recent  date.  In  the  course  of  conversation  I  expressed  the 
regret  of  many  of  China's  friends  that  her  statesmen  are 
being  freely  advised  by  some  well-meaning  and  excellent 
Christians  to  create  an  enormous  army  wherewith  to  resist 
the  encroachments  of  foreign  powers.  I  offered  my  individ- 
ual belief  that  to  endeavor  to  militarize  the  Republic  would 
tend  to  still  further  depress  the  economic  condition  of  the 
masses,  create  apprehensions  on  the  part  of  foreign  govern- 
ments as  to  the  ulterior  motive  of  China,  and  thereby  pre- 
maturely invite  attacks  upon  her,  which  would  very  likely 
result  in  depletion  of  her  power  and  territory.  This  dis- 


AMERICAN  BOARD  COMPOUND,  PEKING. 
TYPICAL  OF  MISSIONARY  CENTERS  IN  THE  ORIENT. 


ONE  OF  THE  MANY  TOWERS  OF  PEKING. 


OVERTIME  IN  PEKING.  -       67 

cussion  was  followed  by  W.  B.  H.  presenting  the  evils  of  ex- 
tending the  lottery  system,  the  efforts  of  civilization  to 
abolish  it,  and  a  protest  against  the  "premium  bonds"  TWW 
being  advertised  for  sale  by  the  Chinese  Government  as  a 
means  of  raising  money  based  on  their  lottery  and  gambling 
features.  Our  courteous  auditor,  as  the  personal  repre- 
sentative of  the  President,  promised  to  convey  to  the  latter 
a  resume  of  our  expressions,  and  will  no  doubt  do  so. 

To  get  to  the  President's  office,  which  is  in  the  center  of 
the  Forbidden  City,  we  had  to  pass  many  groups  of  soldiers 
and  present  our  authority  to  progress  at  numerous  places. 
Three  cups  of  tea  in  as  many  different  waiting-rooms  were 
proffered  us.  The  grounds  were  gray  and  beautiful  in  their 
cold  and  wintery  setting.  The  palace  of  the  last  Emperor 
was  on  an  island  surrounded  by  the  frozen  lake.  I;s  gables, 
roofs  and  pavilions,  gayly  decorated  with  lacquer  in  which 
red,  green,  blue  and  gilt  predominated,  made  a  novel  and 
beauteous  spectacle. 

President  Yuan-Shik-kai  is  a  remarkable  man.  He  has 
many  enemies.  Theoretically  he  maintains  a  republic,  but 
practically  he  has  destroyed  constitutionalism.  He  has  built 
up  a  tremendous  political  machine.  He  has  improved  the 
efficiency  of  government,  and  holds  his  authority  by  virtue 
of  a  military  force  acting  as  police.  The  fires  of  revolution 
have  not  ceased  to  smoulder,  and  his  strong,  if  sometimes 
ruthless,  hand  may  possibly  be  the  only  one  fit  to  control  in 
the  great  tribulations  through  which  China  is  now  passing. 


IX. 
IN  THE  HEART  OF  CHINA. 

Twelfth  Month  25. 

We  had  a  hard  time  getting  out  of  Peking  the  morning  of 
the  23rd  inst,  owing  to  the  route  to  the  station  being  blocked 
by  soldiers  to  protect  the  President  returning  from  his  early 
visit  to  offer  sacrifices  to  heaven.  He  had  not  been  out  of 
his  palace  for  many  months.  Within  three  minutes'  walk 
of  the  station  our  carriage  was  turned  back,  and  we  were 
compelled  to  make  a  detour  of  some  eight  miles.  The  poor 
little  brown  horses,  not  much  higher  than  my  waist,  finally 
became  exhausted  in  a  wretched  "road"  of  loose  cobbles, 
which  was  the  only  available  way  into  the  shed-end  of  the 
station.  My  poor  wife  got  out  and  limped  along  the  tracks 
to  where  the  train  was  standing.  We  had  just  ten  minutes 
and  our  luggage  had  not  yet  arrived.  Suddenly  it  appeared, 
and  then  the  officials  refused  to  acknowledge  our  tickets  pur- 
chased of  Cooks',  insisting  that  we  must  each  pay  $42  for 
new  tickets  to  our  destination,  Hankow.  Finally  they  re- 
lented to  the  extent  of  permitting  us  to  board  the  train  as  it 
moved  off  and  settle  after  it  started.  Our  trunks  went 
aboard  without  our  securing  checks.  Then  we  had  to  meet 
repeated  challenges  on  the  train  as  to  the  validity  of  our 
tickets,  but  our  rightful  position  was  finally  acknowledged. 
W.  B.  H.  and  I  were  two  excited  Friends!  Even  the  very 
cold  car  failed  to  cool  us  down  for  a  long  time ! 

It  takes  two  days  and  one  night  to  travel  from  Peking  to 
Hankow  right  through  the  heart  of  China.  As  everywhere 
else  in  China,  all  the  station  platforms  were  lined  with  sol- 
diers. The  station  scenes  were  wild  with  people.  Often  we 
noted  the  out-door  restaurants  where  eatables  were  offered 
for  sale — sometimes  the  vendors  perched  on  a  stone  wall  or 
on  a  fence  by  the  railroad  tracks.  At  one  place  a  mob  of 
adults  and  children,  clothed  in  rags,  fought  like  beasts  to  se- 
cure the  refuse  from  the  restaurant  car  which  was  dealt  out 
to  them,  and  with  claw-like  fingers  savagely  conveyed  the 


IN  THE  HEART  OF  CHINA.  69 

stuff  hardly  fit  for  pigs  to  their  mouths.  Yet  right  at  Pitts- 
burg,  U.  S.  A.,  my  wife  once  witnessed  just  such  a  sight! 

The  country  scenes  are  interesting.  You  go  past  big 
walled  cities  and  humble  adobe  villages.  The  people,  clad  in 
blue  garments,  stand  in  groups  to  watch  the  train.  The  lit- 
tle towns  throng  with  queerly  dressed  people  reeking  in  dirt 
and  outdoor  cookery.  The  flat  country  is  covered  with 
graves — hundreds  to  be  seen  from  any  one  point  anywhere— 
and  you  wonder  if  the  living  will  have  enough  ground  to  till 
before  many  years.  Sometimes  you  see  women  weaving  as 
they  sit  on  the  frozen  earth.  Oxen  go  round  and  round  the 
big  stone  mills  crushing  grain  beneath  the  huge  stones  con- 
nected with  their  harness.  Donkeys,  bulls,  horses  or  mules 
are  indiscriminately  hitched  to  primitive  ploughs  or  cumber- 
some carts.  Black,  furry  pigs  often  race  with  the  train. 
At  one  place  we  fly  by  two  men's  heads  in  a  sort  of  cage  fas- 
tened to  a  telegraph  pole — a  horrible  grisly  sight ! 

The  usages  on  the  train  were  not  those  of  the  Twentieth 
Century  Limited.  A  few  times  daily,  coolies  would  bring 
face  towels  wrung  out  in  hot  water,  and  the  Chinese  pas- 
sengers would  therewith  very  carefully  mop  their  faces- 
only  their  faces.  Hot  water  and  tea  was  served  every  little 
while  by  men  who  brought  the  kettles  from  car  to  car.  The 
restaurant  car  was  not  a  success.  Finally  we  quit  patroniz- 
ing it.  Our  attendant  there,  the  only  man  on  the  train  who 
understood  our  language,  explained  that  the  reason  for  the 
reproachable  condition  of  the  linen  was  that  it  started  clean 
from  Hankow  to  Peking,  and  now  after  four  days  we  were 
en  route  Peking  to  Hankow.  The  table  manners  in  China 
are  quite  different  from  those  of  America.  As  a  general 
proposition,  traveling  on  railroads  and  steamships  in  this 
country  is  good. 

From  Tokyo  to  Hankow — thousands  of  miles — we  have 
been  the  only  white  people  traveling  at  any  one  time  any 
distance,  and  excepting  for  a  few  miles  in  Korea,  my  wife 
has  been  the  only  white  woman  on  the  train.  People  are 
afraid  to  travel  on  account  of  the  war.  There  are  no  tour- 
ists, and  most  foreigners  in  the  Orient  who  are  active  and 
able  to  travel  have  gone  home  to  fight. 


70  A  QUAKER  DIARY  IN  THE  ORIENT. 

This  is  a  quiet  Christmas  day  for  us,  in  the  middle  of  a 
strange  land,  far  from  those  at  home  whom  we  love. 

Twelfth  Month  27. 

Hankow  is  the  first  place  since  leaving  home  where  there 
seems  little  for  us  to  do.  No  doubt  but  the  fact  that  we  are 
here  in  the  full  Christmas-tide,  and  have  few  introductions, 
accounts  for  our  unusual  experience.  But  if  it  is  not  intend- 
ed that  we  are  to  be  the  means  of  imparting  many  spiritual 
gifts  to  others  it  may  be  that  our  visit  here  will  reveal  some 
of  the  needs  of  non-Christian  lands  which  in  turn  we  can 
feebly  depict  to  our  friends  in  America. 

Yesterday  we  crossed  the  Yang-Tze-kiang  (river)  in  a 
sampan  to  Wuchang,  accompanied  by  a  guide,  who  could  not 
speak  English,  and  who  was  kindly  furnished  by  the  Amer- 
ican Episcopal  Mission.  We  were  cordially  received  by 
Dr.  Jackson,  President  of  Boone  College,  and  after  tiffin  with 
Arnold  Foster,  of  the  London  Mission,  returned  to  Hankow. 
Our  progress  during  the  day  was  through  the  narrow  streets 
and  amidst  the  filth  of  Wuchang,  where  multitudes  bar- 
gained, and  families  made  fire-crackers  and  matches  or 
rocked  their  babies  in  crude  cradles  out  in  the  sunshine  in 
front  of  their  grimy  homes.  But  at  every  turn  somebody 
tried  by  deceit  or  intimidation  to  exact  from  us  far  more 
than  the  usual  pay  for  services  rendered.  W.  B.  H.  was 
once  actually  threatened  with  personal  violence.  The  half- 
starved  wretches  we  were  compelled  to  deal  with  could  not 
forego  an  opportunity  to  add  to  their  meager  fare.  When 
finally  we  reached  Boone  College  and  the  gate  was  closed  on 
the  dreariness  of  the  non-Christian  world,  and  the  serene 
beauty  of  the  college  grounds  with  their  architectural  at- 
tractions and  the  spirit  of  love  depicted  on  the  countenances 
of  those  we  met  burst  upon  our  view,  we  felt  as  if  we  had 
passed  through  a  little  purgatory  into  Paradise.  And  so  is 
it  everywhere.  The  contrast  between  where  Christ  reigns 
and  where  He  is  unknown  is  vivid  throughout  the  Orient. 

On  Christmas  morning  an  errand  took  me  out  of  the  for- 
eign concession,  with  all  its  fairness  of  palms  and  flowers, 
broad  streets  and  handsome  buildings,  into  the  better  part 
of  the  Chinese  quarter  of  the  city.  In  one  place  I  saw  a  boy 


IN  THE  HEART  OF  CHINA.  71 

about  eight  years  of  age,  stark-naked  except  for  a  narrow 
wisp  of  straw  round  his  waist,  lying  on  the  cold  pavement, 
moaning  and  shaking  pitifully.  The  shop-keepers  and-pe- 
destrians  clad  in  their  padded  or  fur-lined  garments  smiled 
contemptuously  on  the  lad  whose  little  basket  by  his  side, 
with  a  few  "cash"  in  it,  each  worth  about  one-twentieth  of 
an  American  cent,  proclaimed  he  was  a  beggar.  About  fifty 
feet  away  was  a  policeman.  There  was  no  doubt  about  the 
sufferings  of  the  child — I  could  hardly  keep  warm  in  an  over- 
coat and  heavy  clothing.  By  signs  I  tried  to  show  my  feel- 
ings to  some  who  stood  by,  but  could  do  nothing.  As  I 
turned  away  from  this  sorrowful  scene  on  the  very  day  de- 
voted to  commemorating  the  birth  of  the  Babe  of  Bethlehem 
and  remembered  the  often  pitiful  sights  daily  witnessed  in 
the  heart  of  China,  I  felt  that  what  we  see  rebukes  the 
thought  that  missionaries  are  not  an  appointed  means  for 
the  relief  of  spiritual  and  physical  woes.  Is  it  not  true, 
"God  is  not  willing  any  should  perish"?  Are  any  races  ex- 
cluded from  this  benign  intent  of  God  ?  Are  we  not  blessed 
as  we  sow  by  all  waters  ? 

The  lower  classes  of  China — as  in  all  other  countries- 
may  sometimes  lie,  grab  and  steal,  and  even  some  Chris- 
tian converts  may,  at  times,  be  somewhat  affected  by  hered- 
ity and  environment.  Yet  the  fact  remains  that  not  a  few 
grand  witnesses  for  Christ,  yielding  the  fruits  of  the  Spirit, 
are  throughout  the  Orient  splendid  and  living  exponents  of 
the  value  of  the  missionary  propaganda.  Is  not  even  a  rush 
light  in  the  darkness  better  than  the  darkness  without  light  ? 

Arnold  Foster  told  me  yesterday  that  Isaac  Sharp,  when 
over  80  years  of  age,  on  his  missionary  journey  round  the 
world  was  describing  his  unquestionably  dangerous  experi- 
ences descending  the  rapids  of  the  Yang-tze-kiang.  He  was 
asked  if  he  was  not  afraid.  "No,"  replied  Isaac  Sharp,  "I 
was  not  afraid;  I  knew  my  Heavenly  Father  had  promised 
to  take  care  of  me — but  whether  in  this  world  or  the  next 
He  had  not  shown  me !"  Here  was  faith. 

Twelfth  Month  31. 

On  the  29th  inst.  we  held  a  real  conservative  Friends' 
meeting  at  the  Boone  University,  which  represents  part  of 


72  A  QUAKER  DIARY  IN  THE  ORIENT. 

the  splendid  missionary  activity  of  the  American  Episcopal 
Church.  How  closely  the  ritualistic  Episcopalian  and  the 
non-ritualistic  Quaker  can  get  together  in  Christ!  The 
Spirit  of  God  was  with  us  during  the  hour  in  which  we  par- 
ticipated in  our  simple  form  of  worship.  Our  association 
with  Dr.  James  Jackson,  the  President  of  this  institution, 
has  been  particularly  helpful  to  me;  his  sympathy,  spirit 
of  love  and  broad  view  of  the  spiritual  concept  of  the  reli- 
gion of  Christ  all  form  a  most  winning  personality,  which 
it  will  be  a  pleasure  to  remember. 

Hankow  is  an  exceedingly  interesting  city.  The  foreign 
concession  has  some  handsome  buildings,  and  beautiful 
streets.  One  of  the  unique  sensations  when  going  through 
the  Russian  quarter  of  the  city  is  to  inhale  the  fragrance 
of  tea  which  emanates  from  the  big  tea-packing  warehouses 
and  which  is  wafted  on  the  breeze  for  blocks  down  the 
streets. 

That  night  we  left  Hankow,  and  after  a  delightful  voyage 
of  about  forty  hours  arrived  at  Nanking.  The  water  scenes 
on  the  Yang-tze  were  full  of  life  and  interest.  The  poor 
men  engaged  in  discharging  or  receiving  cargoes  everywhere 
excite  our  commiseration.  They  stagger  under  loads  fit 
only  for  a  horse.  They  are  fortunate,  as  elsewhere  in  China, 
if  they  average  a  daily  compensation  equal  to  ten  cents  in 
American  money.  Up  to  the  ship's  side,  tossing  on  the  cold, 
yellow  waters  in  old  dilapidated  boats  or  strange  big,  round 
tubs,  would  come  beggars  clad  in  filthy  rags  and  gesticulat- 
ing wildly  as  they  plead  for  alms.  Upon  landing  at  Nan- 
king we  experienced  some  difficulty  owing  to  the  stupidity 
of  soldiers,  and  the  usual  imposition  of  luggage-carriers,  in 
spite  of  the  valuable  assistance  of  a  lady  connected  with 
mission  work,  who  kindly  met  us.  After  a  ride  of  some  five 
miles  in  the  cutting  winter  wind  we  found  grateful  shelter 
in  'The  Quakerage,"  which  is  to  be  our  home  for  the  ensu- 
ing week. 

Speaking  of  these -soldiers  reminds  me  that  one  of  tliem 
held  his  bayonet  one  foot  distant  from  my  wife's  face  dur- 
ing the  parley  at  the  gate  of  the  city,  whilst  they  were  de- 
ciding as  to  whether  we  should  be  permitted  to  enter  or  not. 


IN  THE  HEART  OF  CHINA.  73 

All  the  way  through  Japan,  Manchuria  and  China  we  have 
been  subject  to  polite  scrutiny  and  quiet  examination  on 
trains  and  at  stations.  Every  foreigner  naturally  seems  to 
be  an  object  of  suspicion  to  these  Orientals  during  this  time 
of  war. 

First  Month  2,  1915. 

We  met  with  about  60  students  at  the  Union  Theological 
College  this  morning.  It  was  my  lot  to  present  to  them  the 
call  and  qualification  essential  for  the  exercise  of  the  Chris- 
tian ministry,  and  endeavor  to  encourage  them  in  the  faith, 
patience,  consecration  and  divine  guidance  which  will  be 
necessary  in  the  future  years  of  their  service  for  Christ. 
The  Christ-like  attributes,  which  alone  can  win  men  to  him, 
can  only  be  revealed  through  his  ministers  as  they  them- 
selves daily  live  in  intimate  heart  and  spiritual  relationship 
with  Him.  This  Union  College  represents  seven  different 
denominations,  and  members  of  the  faculty  were  most  kind 
afterward  in  declaring  their  gratification  at  the  message  de- 
livered. This  has,  of  course,  cheered  me. 

First  Month  3. 

At  the  Nanking  University  chapel  service  this — First-day 
—morning  part  of  the  hour  of  worship  was  given  to  me. 
My  heart  was  filled  with  a  great  desire  that  the  students 
present — Christians  and  non-Christians — yield  themselves 
to  Christ  and  to  the  illuminating  guidance  of  His  Spirit.  I 
spoke  about  forty  minutes  from  the  text,  "Christ  shall  give 
thee  light." 

We  have  greatly  enjoyed  meeting  with  our  friends,  John 
W.  Nipps  and  wife. 

First  Month  4. 

Under  a  sudden  apprehension  that  I  should  go  over  to  the 
Language  School,  I  immediately  after  breakfast  went  for 
W.  B.  H.,  who  is  boarding  a  few  blocks  distant,  and  we  pro- 
ceeded there.  The  dean  of  the  school,  Charles  L.  Keen, 
proved  to  have  been  a  pupil  of  Friends'  School  in  Camden, 
N.  J.  (Race  Street  connection),  and  promptly  invited  me  to 
speak  at  the  morning  chapel  exercises  which  commenced  a 
few  minutes  thereafter.  I  had  no  message  at  first  except 


74  A  QUAKER  DIARY  IN  THE  ORIENT. 

that  I  reminded  those  present  that  as  future  and  present 
Christian  workers  they  would  all  need  to  learn  and  know 
beyond  everything  else  the  language  of  the  Spirit.  Once  on 
my  feet  I  was  enlarged  in  expression  on  this  line,  and  it  was 
a  reverent  and  heart-contriting  season.  The  Friends  have 
apparently  a  good  school  for  girls  in  Nanking,  although  we 
have  seen  but  little  of  it.  Their  hospital  for  women,  under 
the  efficient  management  of  Dr.  Tsao,  is  accomplishing  ex- 
cellent work.  Another  hospital  and  dispensary,  across  the 
Yang-tze-kiang,  under  the  care  of  Dr.  De  Vol  and  his  wife,  is 
doing  noble  service.  It  is  the  only  hospital  within  a  range 
of  thirty  miles,  and  its  possibilities  for  good  are  only  limited 
by  financial  needs. 

Much  of  the  missionary  work  around  Nanking  is  union- 
ized. The  University  is  a  fine  institution  and  is  the  center 
of  Christian  activities.  Missionaries  everywhere  are  dis- 
covering that  their  success  is  largely  wrapped  up  in  mini- 
mizing denominational  differences.  They  must  all  teach 
and  preach  the  fundamentals.  To  my  mind,  part  of  the 
great  value  of  the  magnificent  labor  of  the  foreign  workers 
for  Christ  will  be  found  in  its  creating  a  common  bond  of 
spiritual  sympathy  and  friendship  among  the  churches  in 
the  home  lands. 

After  visiting  many  missionary  centers  the  past  few 
months  in  the  Orient  another  thing  is  very  apparent.  It  is 
that  where  the  evangelical  side  of  the  Christian  faith  is  em- 
phasized and  preached — where  Jesus  is  held  up  as  the  one 
sovereign  cure  for  the  sins  of  the  world  and  the  crucifixion 
accepted  as  the  means  appointed  by  God  for  the  forgiveness 
and  redemption  of  men — there  the  largest  spiritual,  numer- 
ical and  material  results  are  detected.  The  men  and  women 
who  preach  this  doctrine  have  a  message.  It  is  a  winning 
message.  Most  of  the  missionaries  we  meet  with  believe  in 
it.  They  see  that  faith  in  the  blood  of  Jesus  the  Son  of  God 
really  does  cleanse  from  sin ;  and  that  obedience  to  the  Spirit 
of  God,  which  they  also  powerfully  witness  to,  does  actually 
preserve  their  converts  from  future  sin. 


A  PEKING  STREET  BARBER.    NOTE  STAND  FOR  HOT 
WATER,  TOOLS,  ETC. 


BOAT  LIFE  IN  CANTON. 


IN  THE  HEART  OF  CHINA.  75 

First  Month  5. 

Probably  about  300  students  from  the  University  jind 
others  selected  from  the  nearby  schools  listened  to  a  peace 
address  this  afternoon.  As  usual  the  young  people  were 
deeply  interested. 

Some  missionaries  and  Y.  M.  C.  A.  workers  here,  as  in 
many  other  places,  tell  me  of  how  leading  non-Christians 
come  to  them  and  say  that  the  European  war  is  conclusively 
proving  to  their  minds  that  Christianity  is  a  failure.  These 
non-Christians  say  that  the  moral  forces  of  Christianity  are 
not  sufficient  to  hold  Christian  civilization  in  check.  Some 
of  these  men  laugh  the  faith  of  Christ  into  derision.  They 
claim  to  have  lost*  respect  for  it,  and  some  doubtless  have. 
Others  say,  "You  see  there  is  nothing  in  your  propaganda  of 
love  and  faith — see  how  the  rulers  of  your  Christian  nations, 
some  of  them  members  of  the  same  families,  plunge  their 
peoples  into  war;  see  the  Christians  behaving  toward  each 
other  like  brutes.  We  know  better  than  you.  You  come 
over  here  to  tell  us  one  thing,  while  your  own  people  at  home 
are  doing  exactly  the  reverse."  Other  Chinese  say,  "We 
must  imitate  you;  we  are  afraid  of  you;  we  must  build  a 
great  military  machine  of  our  own  which  will  make  us  im- 
pregnable." 

I  meet  these  superficial  but  natural  arguments  with  prov- 
ing that  Christianity  is  not  a  failure — that  it  does  control 
the  passions  of  men  who  submit  to  its  sway — but  we  must 
admit  that  many  professors  of  Christianity  in  this  matter 
are  failures.  The  forces  that  make  for  peace  are  still  grow- 
ing and  the  conviction  of  Christians  as  to  the  sins  of  mili- 
tarism are  constantly  developing.  Those  who  have  the  mind 
of  Christ  must  stand  firm.  Just  as  slavery  and  other  evils 
have  gone  down  before  the  work  of  the  living  Christ,  so  war 
must  ultimately  be  destroyed  amongst  civilized  peoples. 

Everywhere  university  presidents,  Y.  M.  C.  A.  secretaries 
and  leading  missionaries  eagerly  ask  me  to  speak  on  peace. 
They  seem  to  feel  that  at  this  critical  period  much  of  their 
success  is  locked  up  with  being  able  to  refute  the  condemna- 
tion of  the  critics  of  their  faith.  They  are  glad  just  now  to 
have  Christians  from  America  come  and  preach  the  Gospel 


76  A  QUAKER  DIARY  IN  THE  ORIENT. 

of  Peace.  Indeed,  so  often  am  I  erroneously  advertised  to 
"preach  on  Peace,"  without  authority  from  me,  that  the  re- 
sult is  both  ludicrous  and  embarrassing  at  times.  The  only 
way  under  such  circumstances  is  to  frankly  announce  at  the 
beginning  of  a  meeting  that  it  is  intended  to  be  a  season  of 
worship  and  that  I  cannot  preach  on  peace  that  day  unless  I 
feel  that  such  a  message  is  granted  me.  I  like  to  keep  peace 
lectures  and  religious  meetings  separate  and  have  them  rec- 
ognized as  such.  But  often  in  the  Peace  meetings  the  Gos- 
pel is  preached,  and  this  always  seems  to  rejoice  the  hearts 
of  our  missionary  friends. 

Wherever  we  go  I  make  investigations  regarding  the  effect 
of  the  war  upon  missionary  effort.  Contrary  to  the  diverse 
theories  or  statements  contained  in  missionary  magazines 
or  papers — some  almost  optimistic  and  others  very  pessi- 
mistic— I  am — as  before  written — everywhere  confronted 
with  facts  tending  to  show  that  Oriental  Christian  work  is 
largely  curtailed  by  the  war.  Reduced  funds  in  many  quar- 
ters and  terrible  criticism  of  the  Christian  profession  are 
discouraging  many  workers  abroad.  So-called  Christians 
all  over  the  world  are  too  filled  with  the  spirit  of  revenge, 
and  are  too  busily  engaged  in  trying  to  kill  one  another  to 
follow  with  much  ardor  the  propaganda  that  of  all  others  is 
based  on  divine  and  human  love.  In  some  places  I  have 
found  a  distinctly  cold  and  ironical  attitude  toward  human- 
ity in  general  as  indicated  in  the  thought  and  conversation 
of  ministers  who  hale  from  the  nations  now  engaged  in  war. 
What  else  can  we  expect? 

First  Month  6. 

We  attended  the  service  at  Friends'  Church,  connected 
with  the  Friends'  Mission,  this  afternoon,  where  a  large  con- 
gregation was  present,  mostly  from  the  schools  connected 
with  the  mission.  I  preached  on  the  necessity  of  the  new 
birth  and  what  being  born  into  the  Kingdom  of  God  implies. 
The  house,  as  usual  in  China  in  winter,  was  very  cold,  with 
windows  open  on  all  four  sides  in  spite  of  the  terrible  chill. 
I  have  suffered  much  in  this  country  owing  to  the  practice 
of  keeping  halls  and  churches  unheated  or  open  in  the  midst 
of  winter.  Everywhere  I  am  warned  by  kind  friends  of  the 


IN  THE  HEART  OF  CHINA.  77 

• 

dangers  to  the  unacclimated  at  this  time  of  year.  They  in- 
form us  that  many  visitors  have  died  as  a  result  of  laboring 
hereabouts.  I  am  only  keeping  at  my  work  with  the  exer- 
cise of  all  the  will-power  possible.  Sometimes  I  think  it  re- 
quires more  courage  to  work  when  handicapped  by  imper- 
fect health  than  it  does  to  face  a  machine  gun ! 

First  Month  12. 

We  came  to  Shanghai  on  the  fifth  inst.  and  I  have  been 
ill.  The  dampness  is  very  trying,  and  it  seems  necessary 
to  get  away  into  more  favorable  climatic  conditions  as  soon 
as  possible.  I  had  anticipated  much  work  in  this  busy  city. 
My  numerous  introductions,  and  the  earnest  spirit  of  the 
Christian  workers  here,  have  flung  wide  open  to  me  many 
doors  for  service,  but  they  are  all  closed  by  reason  of  illness. 
Surely  if  God  really  intended  work  in  Shanghai  he  would 
have  given  the  strength  to  perform  it.  Possibly  I  have  been 
mistaken  in  my  apprehended  call  to  work  here.  Ministers 
of  the  Gospel  can  easily  make  mistakes,  and  these  errors  are 
humiliating.  I  should  not  have  gone  to  Hankow,  and  would 
then  have  reached  here  sooner  than  I  did. 

It  has  been  a  source  of  regret  to  me  not  to  have  had  the 
privilege  of  socially,  or  in  connection  with  our  work,  meeting 
with  many  of  the  higher  class  of  Chinese.  I  have  been  told 
that  they  often  represent  delightful  attributes  and  generous 
hospitality.  My  introductions  into  China  included  few  op- 
portunities to  meet  with  them,  and  the  missionaries  and  Y. 
M.  C.  A.  men  in  this  country  do  not  seem  to  be  quite  as  close- 
ly in  touch  with  them  as  they  are  in  Japan. 

The  feeling  of  nationalism,  of  the  need  of  justice  toward 
their  own  country  and  of  the  bigness  of  international  rela- 
tions is  tremendously  developing  in  China.  As  I  have  ad- 
dressed thousands  of  young  Chinese  the  past  weeks,  I  could 
not  fail  to  be  impressed  with  the  belief  that  whatever  wrongs 
may  be  meted  out  to  China  in  the  future  from  any  source 
will  in  the  long  run  react  on  those  who  take  advantage  of 
her.  The  "Golden  Rule"  is  the  method  wherewith  to  win 
this  wonderful  country.  The  Chinese  will  respond  thereto. 

The  difference  between  the  lower  classes  of  Japan  and 
China  is  most  marked.  During  our  eight  weeks  of  life  in 


78  A  QUAKER  DIARY  IN  THE  ORIENT. 

the  former  country  I  never  met  with  a  single  intended  dis- 
courtesy, and  only  one  effort  to  take  financial  advantage  of 
me  from  the  many  humble  servitors  upon  whom  the  traveller 
is  dependent  in  a  foreign  land.  During  a  thus  far  almost 
similar  period  in  China,  we  have  found  almost  all  rickshaw 
or  sampan  men  or  others  of  similar  position  disposed  to  over- 
charge, and  resent  efforts  to  treat  them  even  more  than  fair- 
ly, and  then  they  retire,  apparently  reviling  us  in  their  own 
language.  This  is  only  personal  experience.  In  hotels  or 
missionary  homes  or  among  the  higher  classes  in  both  coun- 
tries true  courtesy  prevails  among  servants  and  employees 
—as  we  naturally  expect. 

Just  here  I  will  refer  to  another  matter.  I  have  found 
that  it  is  the  common,  but  mistaken,  impression  that  the 
Japanese  banks  are  officered  by  Chinese  because  of  the  as- 
sumed superior  integrity  of  the  latter,  and  because  the  Jap- 
anese can  not  trust  their  own  people  with  respect  to  handling 
money.  The  facts  do  not  bear  out  these  statements.  Prob- 
ably these  erroneous  statements  originate  in  the  fact  that 
the  Chinese  possess  superior  linguistic  abilities  and  are  em- 
ployed in  the  Yokohama  and  Kobe  branches  of  the  Hong- 
kong and  Shanghai  Banking  Corporation  (British, Chinese) 
where  many  tourists  in  Japan  do  their  banking  business. 
Upon  authority  I  can  say  that  with  possibly  one  or  two  ex- 
ceptions where  contact  with  foreigners  is  demanded,  there 
are  no  Chinese  employed  in  Japanese  banks  in  the  latter 
country.  A  glance  over  the  working  force  in  the  numer- 
ous very  large  banking  institutions  of  Japan,  or  at  the  print- 
ed lists  of  their  officials  and  directors,  clearly  reveals  that 
their  personnel  is  Japanese,  both  as  to  appearance  and 
names.  Again,  when  one  attempts  to  buy  goods  outside  of 
the  few  one-price  shops  in  either  Japan  or  China,  we  find 
that  the  margin  between  offering  price  and  selling  price  is 
vastly  broader  in  the  latter  country  than  in  Japan.  Some 
Chinese  know  how  to  ask  big  prices  to  a  degree  that  I  have 
not  seen  in  any  other  country.  This  remark  does  not  dis- 
credit the  Chinese  nation  as  a  whole,  for  in  it  we  have  met 
with  other  men  who  have  accorded  us  the  most  honorable 
treatment.  It  would  seem  to  be  an  error  to  make  invidious 
illustrations  when  comparing  the  two  countries. 


X. 

SOUTHERN  CHINA. 

First  Month  19. 

On  the  14th  inst.  we  left  Shanghai  for  Hongkong,  but  the 
steamship  Nankin  did  not  sail  until  the  following  day,  as  her 
steering  apparatus  was  frozen  because  of  the  very  cold 
weather.  The  cabins  were  uninhabitable,  having  no  heat- 
ing facilities,  but  the  dining  saloon  was  warm,  and  in  it  I 
slept  the  first  two  nights  of  the  voyage. 

There  were  thirteen  first-cabin  passengers,  most  of  them 
en  route  for  London.  All  the  men,  except  W.  B.  H.  and  my- 
self, were  middle-aged  or  young  Englishmen  going  to  Eng- 
land to  join  the  colors.  They  somewhat  glibly  talked  about 
"getting  at"  the  Germans.  All  these  men  were  well  be- 
haved, quiet  gentlemen,  but  no  doubt  will  be  fully  prepared, 
when  at  the  front,  to  mangle  and  kill  their  fellow-men,  blow 
enemies  to  atoms,  stab  and  shoot,  turn  women  and  children 
out  into  pitiless  weather,  and  wreck  innocent  homes,  and  in- 
dulge in  other  devilish  acts  that  ordinarily  would  bring  upon 
them  the  execration  of  humanity. 

The  harbor  of  Hongkong  is  very  beautiful.  Yesterday  we 
came  up  the  Pearl  River  to  Canton — a  charming  little  voyage 
of  about  six  hours'  duration.  On  our  upper  deck  I  noticed 
two  soldiers  with  guns,  evidently  on  guard,  and  asked  the 
Captain,  "Why  do  you  have  armed  men  on  board  ?"  He  re- 
sponded, "Pirates."  He  proceeded  to  inform  me  that  these 
waters  are  infested  with  pirates,  and  horrible  tragedies  have 
at  times  occurred,  and  went  on  to  show  how  in  various  ways 
the  ship  we  were  on  was  prepared  for  attacks  from  them. 

(On  our  return  trip  from  Canton  the  Captain  conducted 
us  over  his  vessel  and  showed  us  the  great  precautions  taken 
against  pirates.  The  second  and  third-class  passengers  were 
placed  on  different  decks,  and  all  separated  from  the  upper 
decks  and  working  parts  of  the  ship  by  iron  gates  or  bars. 


80  A  QUAKER  DIARY  IN  THE  ORIENT. 

In  addition  the  officers  were  all  armed  and  six  soldiers  with 
rifles  walked  the  upper  deck  where  we  stayed  during  the 
voyage.  Barbed  wire  was  strung  over  the  sides  of  the  ves- 
sel. All  this  seems  to  indicate  the  helplessness  of  this  great 
country  with  respect  to  protecting  its  own  citizens  or  for- 
eigners by  means  of  the  modern  constabulary  of  civilized 
lands.) 

At  Canton  our  hearts  were  made  glad  when  we  saw  Dr. 
Win.  W.  Cadbury  on  the  wharf  awaiting  us.  He  brought  us 
to  his  home,  and  at  once  entered  into  efforts  to  arrange  for 
work  in  this  city. 

First  Month  20. 

We  met  probably  about  250  girls  at  the  morning  assembly 
of  the  True  Light  Seminary  for  Girls  and  Women,  wherein 
I  spoke  to  them  on  the  subject  of  "Prayer." 

First  Month  21. 

We  had  a  good  meeting  with  forty  students  of  the  Union 
Theological  Seminary  of  Canton. 

First  Month  22. 

This  evening  we  had  a  meeting  with  225  students  of  the 
Presbyterian  School  for  Boys.  I  was  expected  to  speak  on 
peace,  but  preached  the  Gospel  to  them. 

Yesterday  I  was  told  a  good  story  credited  to  my  friend, 
the  well-known  missionary,  Dr.  Arthur  H.  Smith.  The  lat- 
ter had  heard  an  address  in  which  the  speaker  said  that  the 
need  of  the  old-fashioned  Christian  doctrine  and  teaching 
had  become  obsolete  because  ethics  and  moral  instruction 
and  philosophic  ideals  were  more  suited  to  the  needs  and 
development  of  modern  civilization.  Dr.  Smith  remarked 
that  you  might  as  well  say  that  condensed  milk  had  reached 
such  a  state  of  perfection  that  there  was  no  more  need  for 
the  cow. 

First  Month  23. 

Dr.  Cadbury  is  much  interested  in  the  religious  work  con- 
nected with  the  Canton  Hospital  and  Christian  College,  and 
this  morning  I  spoke  a  little  while  to  about  forty  patients  at 
the  former  institution.  They  were  a  sorrowful  looking 


SOUTHERN  CHINA.  81 

group  with  a  few  exceptions.  Do  many  of  them  need  Christ  ? 
In  the  afternoon  1  addressed  some  350  pupils  in  the  Chapel 
of  the  Baptist  Mission,  just  a  short  distance  outside  of  the 
city.  As  everywhere  a  warm  welcome  awaited  me  as  an  ad- 
vocate of  "Internationalism,"  which  was  my  theme. 

First  Month  24. 

It  was  our  privilege  to  go  last  night  to  the  residence 
of  Dr.  C.  K.  Edmunds  and  enjoy  the  family  life  in  his  house. 
He  is  President  of  the  Christian  College  of  Canton.  There 
I  to-day,  at  the  regular  First-day  morning  service,  spoke  to 
about  200  students,  the  faculty  and  others,  on  "Peace."  My 
appeal  was  largely  based  on  the  ultimate  triumph  of  the  spir- 
itual over  the  material  forces  in  civilization,  and  was  a  call 
to  the  young  men  present,  who  are  being  developed  in  the 
leading  educational  institution  of  South  China,  to  enlist 
themselves  in  the  ranks  of  the  army  of  the  Prince  of  Peace. 

In  the  evening  a  short  message  was  delivered  by  me  to 
about  150  missionaries  at  a  missionary  meeting,  held  in  the 
residence  of  Dr.  Cadbury,  and  it  seemed  acceptable  to  them, 
although  I  apprehend  that  a  definite  note  of  warning  accom- 
panied it. 

Canton  is  a  fascinating  city,  said  to  contain  about  one  mil- 
lion five  hundred  thousand  population.  The  streets  are  very 
narrow  and  sedan  chairs  can  pass  or  meet  only  with  great 
difficulty.  The  tide  of  humanity  ebbs  and  flows  through 
these  devious  passages  all  the  day.  The  boat  life  of  the 
city  is  its  most  remarkable  feature.  The  river  and  canals 
are  crowded  with  junks,  sampans  and  little  craft  propelled 
by  steam.  It  is  estimated  that  200,000  people  live  on  the 
little  vessels  and  sampans.  They  are  born,  live  and  die  on 
the  water.  Their  livelihood  is  secured  by  transporting 
freight  or  carrying  passengers  for  the  smallest  charges. 

Observing  the  personal  habits  of  these  water  people  is  ex- 
ceedingly interesting.  Generally  a  man,  his  wife  and  family 
constitute  the  crew.  All  ply  oars — sometimes  two  will  work 
one  oar.  The  women  wear  trousers,  and  are  agile  at  every 
sort  of  manual  labor.  The  heads  of  the  babies,  who  are  fas- 
tened to  the  backs  of  their  mothers,  jerk  to  and  fro  at  every 
turn  of  the  oars.  Those  babies'  heads  must  be  screwed  onto 


82  A  QUAKER  DIARY  IN  THE  ORIENT. 

their  small  bodies  very  tightly.  The  smallest  children  are 
tethered  so  they  will  not  fall  overboard.  In  one  corner  of 
these  boats  will  be  the  kitchen,  wherein  is  the  place  for  a 
fire,  a  brass  teakettle  and  a  pot  in  which  to  boil  rice.  Some- 
times the  cooking  outfit  is  a  little  larger.  Some  prettily 
painted  cups  and  saucers  and  a  few  plates  and  chopsticks 
complete  the  equipment  of  the  commissary  department. 
The  part  of  these  sampans  which  are  covered  with  hoods 
are  often  adorned  with  pictures  or  mottos  from  the  litera- 
ture of  China.  Often  gay  little  flags  flutter  in  the  breeze 
right  alongside  of  the  garments  that  are  hung  out  to  dry. 
Everything  is  most  scrupulously  clean;  the  tiny  decks  are 
constantly  scrubbed  and  washed.  These  river  people  are  re- 
garded as  of  the  lowest  social  scale  in  this  country,  yet  they 
have  their  own  ideas  of  propriety.  They  perform  their  laun- 
dering in  the  yellow  waters  of  the  Pearl  River,  and  have 
also  adopted  the  toothbrush  of  more  favored  peoples  and  re- 
ligiously clean  their  teeth  in  the  same  dubious  fluid.  They 
certainly  represent  the  simple  life. 

Our  days  in  China  are  fast  drawing  to  a  close.  The  con- 
dition of  the  poor  has  deeply  impressed  me.  We  see  but  few 
beggars.  The  great  majority  toil  for  a  pittance.  The  equiv- 
alent of  ten  cents  a  day  in  American  money  suffices  for  a 
usual  daily  wage.  But  even  allowing  for  the  difference  be- 
tween the  purchasing  power  of  money  in  China  and  the 
United  States,  the  margin  between  starvation  and  a  little 
here  is  terribly  narrow.  Dirt  abounds.  People  buy  in  the 
markets  an  ounce  of  meat  or  the  wing  of  a  fowl.  The  food 
is  vastly  different  in  separate  parts  of  the  country,  and  is 
regulated  by  the  climatic  conditions  of  each.  Although  the 
poor  eat  much  rice  they  are  able  in  different  localities  to  vary 
this  diet  with  such  foods  as  beans  and  vegetables,  sweet  po- 
tatoes, millet  used  as  porridge  or  baked  into  cakes,  pickled 
turnips  and  carrots,  sugar  cane  or  corn.  The  more  well-to- 
do  add  to  their  diet  some  of  the  products  of  wheat,  beef, 
of  which  they  utilize  parts  of  the  animals  which  foreigners 
would  consider  unfit  to  eat,  and  game  or  fowl.  Candy  made 
of  millet  is  very  good,  but  you  wonder  about  its  history,  dur- 
ing manufacture,  whilst  you  eat  it.  The  rich  people  of 


A  "SLIPPER  BOAT"  AT  CANTON. 


ON  THE  PASIG  RIVER  AT  MANILA. 


SOUTHERN  CHINA.  83 

China,  as  in  all  lands,  live  well.  But  there  are  very,  very 
few  rich  people  in  China. 

As  we  have  passed  through  China  we  have  heard  much 
of  the  reputed  venality  of  officials.  We  are  told  that  most 
of  them  used  to,  and  many  still,  operate  under  the  system  of 
"squeeze".  What  is  squeeze?  It  is  the  often  illegitimate 
and  frequently  secret  commissions  that  are  exacted  and  re- 
tained in  business  transactions  and  in  connection  with  the 
collection  and  distribution  of  the  public  revenue.  It  is  a 
universal  system.  The  servant  buying  for  his  master  has 
his  "squeeze".  The  man  who  sells  to  a  tourist  adds  to  the 
price  of  his  wares  enough  additional  charge  to  pay  "squeeze" 
to  the  confidential  friend  or  guide  who  may  have  recom- 
mended him  to  the  intending  purchaser.  The  officials  often 
get  squeeze  from  everybody  instead  of  salaries.  The  more 
you  can  retain  in  such  ways  the  richer  and  more  honorable 
you  become.  I  heard  of  one  notable  exception  when  in  Nan- 
king. The  manager  of  the  Exposition  held  in  that  city  a 
year  or  so  ago  was  widely  remarked  upon  because  he  did 
not  avail  himself  of  his  great  opportunities  to  "squeeze". 
He  is  a  Christian. 

The  adherents  of  Yahn  Shih-kai  control  Canton  with  an 
iron  hand.  Suspicions  of  disloyalty  to  the  President  means 
instant  death  without  process  of  law.  Here  is  a  case  which 
there  is  no  evidence  was  authorized  by  him,  but  which  illus- 
trates the  methods  of  his  viceroy.  The  latter  one  day  in- 
vited the  Chief  of  Police  of  Canton  to  tiffin  at  his  home,  and 
at  the  conclusion  of  the  meal  told  his  guest  that  he  was  to 
be  shot.  The  unfortunate  city  official,  who  had  really  insti- 
tuted numerous  reforms  in  Canton,  was  immediately  taken 
from  the  palace  of  his  host  and  executed. 

It  must  be  a  source  of  humiliation  to  the  right-thinking 
people  of  this  great  country  to  see  foreign  soldiers  guard- 
ing so  many  railways,  and  to  see  them  so  conspicuous  in  the 
foreign  concessions  of  their  great  cities.  It  is  apparent  evi- 
dence that  many  of  the  Chinese  do  not  trust  themselves  to 
administer  their  own  affairs,  or  are  not  trusted  by  foreign 
governments.  Probably  just  plain  "grab"  on  the  part  of  the 
foreign  powers  is  responsible  for  this  condition.  It  at  least 


84  A  QUAKER  DIARY  IN  THE  ORIENT. 

reveals  the  helplessness  of  their  own  authorities  with  re- 
spect to  controlling  their  own  soil.  It  is  one  of  the  evidences 
of  the  lack  of  unity  throughout  the  vast  dominion.  The 
record  of  the  treatment  of  China  by  the  United  States  is 
generally  clean  and  fair,  and  the  Chinese  appreciate  it.  We, 
too,  may  be  thankful  because  of  that  record. 

Another  evidence  of  the  need  of  solidarity  in  China  is 
found  in  the  lack  of  a  uniform  system  of  currency.  The 
traveler  goes  from  city  to  city  and  everywhere  finds  a  dif- 
ferent monetary  standard.  Bank-notes  or  silver  coins  that 
are  good  in  one  province  are  very  likely  not  negotiable  in 
adjacent  provinces.  Everywhere  the  tourist  or  merchant  is 
compelled  to  pay  to  bankers  or  money-changers  the  most 
outrageous  commissions  for  exchange  of  funds.  This  is  one 
of  the  many  annoyances  associated  with  travel  in  China. 
The  government  seems  unable  to  cope  with  this  fundamental 
evil  which  is  apparently  maintained  by  the  great  financial 
institutions  for  their  own  profit. 

As  in  so  many  countries  that  are  non-Christian  the  ap- 
pearance of  the  old  people  calls  forth  the  sympathy  of  our 
little  party.  In  Japan  and  China  the  poorer  women  look  old 
and  wrinkled  at  the  age  of  forty.  Are  they  without  hope 
and  without  God  in  the  world  ?  Yet  China  has  religious  peo- 
ple. The  shops  of  Canton,  and  often  the  sampans  on  the 
river,  have  little  shrines,  in  one  corner,  in  which  incense  is 
burned  at  least  once  a  day.  These  offerings  are  frequently 
made  to  the  god  of  earth  and  to  the  god  of  wealth.  Whilst 
missionaries  report  that  the  young  people  often  remarkably 
respond  to  spiritual  appeals,  and  are  open  to  spiritual  under- 
standing, the  general  life  and  thought  of  China  is  essential- 
ly materialistic. 

The  people  are  eager  to  listen  to  a  ministry  which  will 
point  the  way  to  better  material  conditions — their  cry  often 
is,  "What  can  I  get  out  of  religion  ?"  It  has  been  my  lot  to 
preach  in  many  places  that  material  benefits  may  not  alto- 
gether develop  from  obedience  to  the  spiritual  religion  of 
Jesus  Christ,  but  can  only  be  fully  expected  by  those  who 
love  and  confess  the  Savior  for  his  own  dear  name's  sake. 
What  this  huge  toiling,  suffering  country  needs  is  Christ! 


SOUTHERN  CHINA.  85 

Then  the  material  development  will  naturally  follow  the  spir- 
itual uplift.  The  hope  of  these  teeming  millions  is  bound  up 
with  the  success  of  the  self-denying  missionaries  who,  un- 
der the  constraint  of  Christ,  are  teaching  and  praying  in 
their  midst. 

First  Month  26. 

My  wife,  accompanied  by  two  ladies  of  the  college  and  a 
man  missionary,  whilst  being  conveyed  through  the  narrow 
streets  of  Canton  in  sedan  chairs,  were  suddenly  dropped  by 
their  chair-bearers,  who  vociferously  demanded  more  pay. 
A  veritable  riot  ensued,  and  they  soon  were  followed  by  a 
howling  mob  which,  as  if  by  magic,  accumulated  and  jammed 
all  traffic.  Finally  they  found  refuge  in  a  shop  until  the  po- 
lice interfered.  Then  the  party  walked  a  long  distance  to 
the  hospitable  home  of  Dr.  Cadbury. 

Yesterday  was  a  day  of  rest.  We  were  interested  in  vis- 
iting a  large  hospital  for  the  insane,  where  Dr.  Sheldon,  who 
devotes  his  life  to  the  service  of  these  500  unfortunates,  most 
kindly  conducted  us  around.  This  hospital  was  founded  by 
Dr.  John  E.  Kerr,  and  is  one  of  the  many  splendid  institu- 
tions of  Canton  owing  their  existence  to  Christian  labor  and 
love. 

Our  union  meeting  in  the  Second  Presbyterian  Church 
this  afternoon  resulted  in  some  350  persons  attending.  I 
thought  I  had  clearly  arranged  with  the  good  brother  who 
conducted  the  meeting,  that  it  was  to  be  held  in  the  conserv- 
ative Friends'  way.  But  he  could  not  forego  the  joy  of  song, 
and  three  hymns  were  sung.  Still,  good  periods  of  silent 
prayer  or  waiting  on  God  were  afforded,  and  I  preached  on 
the  peace  of  God,  and  how  and  where  restless  men  can  find 
happiness — even  in  Christ. 

I  am  glad  to  feel  that  some  of  the  difficulties  connected 
with  arranging  for  and  prosecuting  Christian  work  through 
even  good  interpreters  is  drawing  to  a  close. 

Dr.  Cadbury  tells  us  of  a  Christian  friend  of  his,  a  Chinese 
of  wealth  and  culture,  and  of  a  splendid  spirit,  who  was  re- 
cently married  according  to  the  usual  Christian  ritual. 
When  the  wedding  party  repaired  to  the  house  where  the 
reception  was  to  be  held,  a  hymn  was  sung,  the  Bible  read, 


86  A  QUAKER  DIARY  IN  THE  ORIENT. 

a  prayer  offered,  and  then  the  company  sat  down  to  the 
wedding  feast.  How  real  the  religion  of  Jesus  is  to  those 
who  are  really  converted  to  Him! 

First  Month  28. 

At  a  conference  of  some  120  of  the  missionaries  of  Can- 
ton to-day,  most  of  the  time  was  devoted  to  the  subject  of 
the  effect  of  the  war  on  missions.  The  two  programmed 
speakers  were  from  one  of  the  warring  nations,  and  were 
very  optimistic  as  to  the  great  good  to  Christian  effort,  and 
the  extension  of  Christ's  Kingdom,  which  they  felt  would 
develop  from  the  beastly  conflict.  Their  principal  apology 
for  the  war,  when  dealing  with  non-Christians,  was  to  sug- 
gest to  the  latter  that  the  States  of  Europe  were  really  not 
Christian  nations.  This  is  true,  but  contradicts  their  ex- 
pressed belief  that  war  may  sometimes  be  right.  One  of  the 
speakers  interested  in  the  war  said  that  Christianity  was 
"a  religion  of  ideals,  not  one  of  principles."  Attention  was 
called  to  the  fact  that  this  war  has  been  prosecuted  in  nu- 
merous missionary  districts  throughout  the  world. 

I  was  asked  to  address  the  meeting  and  felt  compelled  to 
take  issue  with  some  of  the  assumptions  made  by  our  apolo- 
getic and  optimistic  brethren.  Many  afterward  declared 
their  gratitude  because  I  had  made  the  address  I  had,  yet  in 
a  way  not  to  create  discord.  During,  or  at  the  close  of  the 
discussion,  such  remarks  were  made  as,  "We  are  feeling  the 
strain  of  this  awful  war" ;  and  again,  "God  will  bring  about  a 
solution,  not  because  of  the  war  itself,  but  because  of  His 
own  self."  Again,  "Those  who  say  that  they  do  not  believe 
in  the  teaching  of  Tolstoi  can  not  believe  in  the  teaching  of 
Christ,  because  Tolstoi  only  taught  what  Christ  did  about 
war."  Some  seemed  to  feel  that  the  non-Christian  Chinese 
people  talked  or  thought  little  about  the  war — some  gave 
facts  to  prove  exactly  the  reverse.  One  missionary  told  of 
how  one  of  his  people  going  to  worship  asked  a  man  to  attend 
the  Christian  service  with  him.  The  reply  was,  "I  am  not  a 
man-killer!" 

First  Month  29. 

Yesterday  we  left  Dr.  Cadbury  and  came  to  Hongkong. 
Dr.  Cadbury,  along  with  the  other  missionaries,  is  doing  a 


SOUTHERN  CHINA.  87 

signal  work  in  Canton,  which  his  home  friends  can  little 
understand  or  appreciate.     We  parted  from  him  with  regret. 

First  Month  31. 

A  slight  illness  precludes  working  in  Hongkong  to-day.  I 
heard  to-day  of  a  certain  foreign  union  prayer  meeting  held 
not  long  ago  in  a  big  Oriental  city  at  which  a  prominent  dig- 
nitary in  one  of  the  churches  of  one  of  the  nations  now  en- 
gaged in  war  spoke,  and  at  which  some  of  his  opponents,  by 
special  invitation,  were  present.  The  said  dignitary  in  the 
course  of  his  opening  remarks  took  occasion  to  bitterly  refer 
to  the  enemies  of  his  own  land,  adding,  "There  can  be  no 
peace  of  the  world  except  by  the  triumph  of  our  arms." 
Then  he  repeated  the  Lord's  prayer,  "Thy  will  be  done" ;  and 
my  informant,  a  well-known  Christian  worker,  added  that  he 
never  felt  so  like  crying  as  he  thought  of  the  unchristian  at- 
titude of  this  exponent  of  the  religion  of  Jesus.  The  situa- 
tion was  partly  relieved  when  an  old  missionary  of  thirty 
years'  residence  in  China,  whose  nation  was  also  involved, 
soon  afterward  offered  a  prayer  in  which  he  exclaimed,  "0 
Lord,  may  Thy  will  be  done,  even  though  it  hits  us." 

Many  misunderstandings  between  peoples  of  various  races 
are  the  outcome  of  difference  in  language.  The  wife  of  Gil- 
bert Bowles  illustrated  this  by  telling  me  how  she  once  ob- 
served an  altercation  between  an  Englishman  and  a  Japanese 
rickshaw-man.  She  listened,  and  found  that  the  Japanese 
was  trying  to  impart  information  to  the  Englishman  in  order 
to  help  him,  whilst  the  latter  thought  that  the  former  was 
demanding  more  money  and  repeatedly  gave  him  additional 
coin,  which  the  Japanese  did  not  desire.  They  both  meant 
well,  yet  almost  came  to  blows  over  the  matter,  until  M.  P.  B. 
intervened  and  explained  the  situation  to  both  men. 

Foreigners  in  China  do  not  treat  the  Chinese  as  they 
should  in  many  instances.  Missionary  effort  is  sadly  handi- 
capped by  this  fact. 


XL 
THE  PHILIPPINES. 

Second  Month  8. 

We  had  a  hard  time  getting  to  Manila.  Twice  the  ships 
we  had  engaged  passage  on  were  taken  out  of  the  service, 
but  finally  we  got  off  on  a  "toothpick,"  as  my  wife  called  it, 
the  steamship  Kueichow,  a  little  craft  of  2000  tons,  and  with 
only  four  cabins  for  first-class  passengers,  a  tiny  dining 
saloon,  etc.,  all  heaped  together,  and  quite  without,  to  us, 
at  least,  ventilating  facilities  for  disagreeable  weather.  My 
wife  was  the  only  woman  on  board.  I  had  been  ill,  the  hu- 
midity distressing,  and  altogether  our  little  voyage  from 
Hongkong  commenced  under  depressing  conditions.  No- 
body had  given  the  China  Sea  a  good  name.  Happily  after 
the  first  twenty-four  hours  we  had  a  smooth  sea,  and  were 
hourly  thankful  for  it.  Our  engine  pushed  us  along  at  only 
eight  knots  an  hour;  so  the  trip  which  usually  consumes 
forty-eight  hours  took  almost  4  days  for  us.  I  could  eat  but 
little  of  the  fare  provided,  and  glad  we  were  to  land  yester- 
day morning  and  to  receive  a  warm  greeting  from  our  friend, 
Prof.  Alvin  J.  Cox,  who  speedily  took  us  in  his  motor-car  to 
a  pleasant  boarding-house  which  he  had  selected  for  us.  In 
the  drier  air  of  Manila,  and  with  things  I  can  eat,  I  am  im- 
proving and  hope  to  soon  be  ready  for  work. 

Nothing  interesting  occurred  on  the  ship  unless  it  was  the 
discussions  participated  in  by  all  hands  on  things  relating  to 
this  world  and  the  next.  One  young  man  at  tiffin  one  day 
briskly  challenged  my  use  of  the  word  "providence".  I 
made  no  reply  until  another  said,  "You  do  not  seem  very 
willing  to  dispute  what  he  says."  I  replied,  "I  have  learned 
that  there  is  not  much  use  in  arguing  with  any  man  who 
flys  in  the  face  of  the  simplest  facts  in  the  creation,  and  is 
so  foolish  as  to  claim  that  he  does  not  believe  in  a  God." 
Then  I  took  my  turn  detailing  the  miracles  of  prophecy,  and 


THE  PHILIPPINES.  89 

putting  question  after  question  to  the  would-be  non-believer, 
following  it  by  telling  those  present  of  statements  made  by 
Sir  Oliver  Lodge,  and  others,  acknowledging  their  inability 
to  base  spiritual  truths  on  recently  questioned  scientific  so- 
called  facts,  and  Sir  Oliver's  admission,  over  one  year  ago, 
that  many  scientific  beliefs  that  have  been  in  vogue  for  a 
good  many  decades  must  be  recast.  My  young  opponent  re- 
minded me,  and  I  told  him  courteously  thereof,  of  the  old 
Quaker  who  met  a  doubting  youth  who  declared  that  he 
would  not  believe  in  anything  that  did  not  appeal  to  his 
senses.  The  old  Friend  asked,  "Hast  thou  ever  seen  thy 
brains?"  "No,"  was  the  reply.  "Hast  thou  ever  smelled 
thy  brains?"  "No."  "Has.t  thou  ever  tasted  thy  brains?" 
Reluctantly  again  came  the  answer,  "No."  Then  followed 
the  inquiry,  "Art  thou  sure  that  thou  hast  any  brains  ?" 

Our  conversation  concluded  by  my  speaking  of  the  fact 
that  many  do  not  want  to  believe  in  a  God  because  they  dare 
not  bring  their  lives  in  conformity  to  His  laws  or  go  through 
the  processes  of  repentance  and  a  changed  life.  Above  all, 
they  are  so  very  foolish  as  to  bar  themselves  out  of  the  joy 
and  peace  in  believing  which  upholds  them  in  this  life  and 
qualifies  them  for  that  which  is  to  come.  Possibly  I  was  on 
that  trying  little  voyage  for  the  purpose  of  giving  a  few 
young  men  something  to  think  about  before  they  entered 
into  the  temptations  of  their  colonial  career.  They  were 
nice  young  fellows. 

One  small  table  in  the  little  dining-saloon  was  filled  with 
Americans,  and  the  other  one  with  Chinamen.  The  latter 
were  educated  gentlemen,  and  most  agreeable  to  meet  with. 
The  Americans  were  mostly  assertive,  talked  loudly,  some 
used  indifferent  grammar  and  could  eat  a  course  dinner  in 
about  twenty  minutes.  The  Chinese  were  almost  exactly 
the  reverse  as  to  table  manners.  Yet  most  of  the  Ameri- 
cans eyed  the  Orientals  suspiciously  or  refused  to  talk  direct- 
ly to  them  when  they  met  on  our  meager  deck  space.  I  was 
a  "go-between."  If  our  country  is  to  get  its  share  of  com- 
merce in  the  Far  East,  and  wield  the  influence  there  that  we 
ought  to  in  many  respects,  our  people  must  be  taught  to  as- 
sume a  different  attitude  from  what  many  of  them  do  toward 
other  races.  A  broad  Christian  spirit  is  our  only  hope. 


90  A  QUAKER  DIARY  IN  THE  ORIENT. 

Second  Month  11. 

We  have  passed  a  good  deal  of  the  past  two  days  in  pre- 
senting introductions  and  arranging  for  future  work.  The 
educational  institutions  are  most  open  with  respect  to  lis- 
tening to  addresses  on  peace.  I  had  expected  not  to  under- 
take such  labor  in  Manila,  or  little  of  it;  but  in  the  face  of 
such  an  open  door  into  institutions  which  are  likely  to  affect 
the  future  thought  and  action  of  this  country  I  dare  not  re- 
fuse to  engage  in  this  work  for  Christ. 

This  morning  we  visited  what  is  probably  one  of  the  larg- 
est public  primary  schools  in  the  world — the  Meisic  School 
of  Manila.  It  boasts  3,100  pupils  and  sixty-five  teachers, 
most  of  the  latter  Filipinos.  At-  10  o'clock  it  was  an  inspir- 
ing sight  to  see  the  bright-eyed  youngsters  lined  up  in  the 
long  porticos  around  the  great  square,  in  the  center  of  the 
building,  and  at  a  given  signal  make  a  rush  for  the  luncheon 
counters  in  the  middle  of  the  square.  Then  there  was  much 
munching  and  playing.  Most  of  the  little  boys — about  2,000 
of  them — were  dressed  in  white,  whilst  the  girls  were  at- 
tired in  the  brilliant  and  picturesque  garments  that  so  be- 
come the  natives  of  this  interesting  city. 

Second  Month  12. 

At  7 :30  a.  m.  we  were  on  the  platform  of  the  Normal 
School  facing  about  800  prospective  teachers.  Men  predom- 
inated, which  is  unusual  in  institutions  of  that  character.  I 
spoke  on  international  peace.  I  was  frequently  applauded 
when  making  appeals  to  obey  the  law  of  righteousness  felt 
in  the  human  heart,  and  to  carry  their  influence  on  behalf 
of  good  out  into  their  fields  of  future  effort. 

Second  Month  13. 

A  crowded  assembly  room,  with  "many  standing,  bore  wit- 
ness to  the  interest  felt  in  the  international  peace  question 
by  the  students  of  the  University  of  the  Philippines,  where 
I  spoke  to-day.  As  on  the  preceding  day,  my  address  seemed 
to  give  great  satisfaction  to  the  faculty. 

A  ride  to  Los  Banos  yesterday  was  very  interesting.  The 
countryside  is  most  picturesque.  Town  succeeds  town  in 
rapid  succession.  Quaint  old  churches,  with  the  priests' 


IN  OLD  MANILA. 


A  NIPA  HOUSE  IN  THE  PHILIPPINES. 


THE  PHILIPPINES.  91 

houses  attached,  and  the  municipal  buildings,  all  sheltered 
by  tropical  foliage  and  surrounding  the  plazas  in  the  cejiter 
of  these  towns,  constitute  the  central  feature  of  interest  to 
the  hastening  visitor.  The  homes  of  the  well-to-do  are  of 
Spanish  architecture,  except  where  a  modern  type  resulting 
from  American  occupation  has  crept  in.  The  houses  of  the 
poor  are  of  bamboo  frames  fastened  with  bamboo  or  rattan 
cords  and  covered  with  Nipa.  They  are  exceedingly  inflam- 
mable, and  a  friend  has  told  me  how,  during  a  fire,  she  once 
saw  300  burned  up  in  one  hour.  They  are  built  on  high 
posts,  and  beneath  the  first  floors  wagons  can  be  stored  and 
children  play.  Wide  windows  are  opened  during  the  day, 
and  inside  can  be  seen  all  the  family  furniture,  and  life,  but 
at  night  these  windows  are  closed,  resulting  in  an  appalling 
record  throughout  the  country  with  respect  to  tuberculosis. 
Often  a  fanciful  bamboo  fence  separates  these  simple  homes 
from  the  roadway.  Few  flowers  are  seen.  Yet  even  the 
most  indigent  have  their  ideas  of  decoration.  In  every  coun- 
try of  the  world — so  it  seems  to  me — the  people  of  all  races 
feel  like  the  French  poet  who  said,  "If  I  had  but  two  sous  in 
the  world,  with  one  I  would  buy  bread,  with  the  other  a 
hyacinth,  for  the  hyacinth  would  feed  my  soul."  This  spirit 
is  discerned  throughout  the  poverty-stricken  Orient. 

At  the  Agricultural  College  at  Alabang,  we  stopped  for 
lunch.  Every  courtesy  was  extended  to  us,  and  when  some 
of  the  young  men  found  who  I  was,  they  pressed  me  to  ad- 
dress them,  promising  an  improvised  company  of  over  300 
listeners  if  I  would  talk  on  peace. 

Around  Manila  the  stranger  is  impressed  with  the  school 
life  of  the  Philippines.  In  the  city  some  fine  modern  build- 
ings devoted  to  education  are  most  impressive  as  denoting 
the  possibilities  of  the  American  Administration.  Out  in 
the  country,  old  school  buildings  are  filled  with  swarms  of 
happy  children  who  are  acquiring  a  modern  education  such 
as  their  parents  never  dreamed  of.  Most  of  these  children 
speak  English.  A  definite  standard  of  dress  and  manners  is 
demanded  of  them.  The  most  astonishing  thing  is  their  de- 
votion to  American  games.  Everywhere  is  that  grand  old 
game  of  baseball  played.  Even  the  girls  play  it.  The  effect 


92  A  QUAKER  DIARY  IN  THE  ORIENT. 

upon  the  rising  generation  is  marked  in  many  ways.  The 
physical  size  and  mental  power  of  the  young  people  has  per- 
ceptibly developed,  according  to  statistics  and  measurements, 
within  the  past  fifteen  years.  Baseball  takes  the  place  of 
cock-fights  among  the  young.  In  driving  around  the  coun- 
try we  often  see  men  fondly  holding  roosters  in  their  arms, 
and  in  groups,  evidently  discussing  the  prowess  of  their  pets. 
You  do  not  see  boys  preparing  for  the  pastime.  People 
hereabouts  inform  me  that  the  cock-pits  are  now  almost  al- 
together patronized  by  the  older  men.  I  was  told  the  other 
day  that  "even  the  old  men  who  hold  on  to  their  roosters 
will  go  to  watch  a  baseball  game,  and  do  not  indulge  in  the 
cock-pit  as  they  used  to."  All  this  speaks  loudly  in  praise  of 
the  American  educational  system. 

^Sometimes  when  driving  through  the  country  near  sun- 
down the  villages  are  alive  with  little  children  arrayed  in 
very  abreviated  costumes — often  one  garment  extending 
down  to  their  knees.  It  is  enough  in  a  climate  where  in  win- 
ter you  feel  like  sitting  down  whenever  you  can,  and  where, 
at  noon-time,  repose  of  several  hours  is  fashionable.  These 
little  folks  wave  their  small  brown  hands  at  us  and  in  chorus 
call  out  "hello"  in  the  purest  American  accent. 

Second  Month  14. 

Last  night  we  were  most  generously  entertained  at  the  at- 
tractive home  of  Prof.  Wm.  T.  Hilles,  a  Friend.  Another 
Friend,  Dr.  Alvin  J.  Cox,  of  the  Bureau  of  Science,  has  been 
exceedingly  hospitable  and  kind  to  us.  We  have  met  with 
most  sincere  courtesy  from  many  Americans  in  Manila. 

This  morning  found  us  at  the  M.  E.  service  for  native  Fil- 
ipinos. All  are  young  people,  and  most  of  them  are  con- 
nected with  the  University.  Their  pastor,  E.  S.  Lyons,  in- 
formed me  that  about  seventy-five  people  present  represent- 
ed eight  or  nine  different  dialects,  and  that  a  good  many  of 
them  could  not  understand  the  speech  of  each  other,  but  that 
all  understood  English.  After  the  preliminary  exercises  the 
meeting  was  turned  over  to  me,  and  conducted  as  a  Friends' 
meeting  for  worship,  after  I  had  explained  our  method.  I 
spoke  on  "Faith"  from  Hebrews  11 :  24,  and  my  sermon  was 
preceded  by  a  long  period  of  silent  waiting  on  God.  This 


THE  PHILIPPINES.  93 

was  very  impressive.  In  many  lands  and  with  many  races, 
and  among  people  of  vastly  different  creeds,  I  have  proved 
that  the  Friends'  way  of  worship  is  so  broad  and  inclusive 
that  those  of  most  diverse  faiths  and  practice  can  together 
participate  in  it.  They  can  all  unite  in  silent  prayer  or  wait- 
ing on  God.  We  had  a  good  meeting. 

Second  Month  16. 

Last  night  we  were  entertained  at  the  home  of  G.  W. 
Wright,  a  leading  missionary.  We  were  the  guests  of  the 
Evangelical  Union  of  Manila.  After  a  social  time,  in  which 
about  35  people  participated,  I  was  called  upon  to  speak  to 
the  company.  I  had  felt  most  decidedly  that  a  message  was 
required  of  me,  which  I  endeavored  to  deliver — a  word  of 
encouragement  and  suggestion.  Afterward,  some  simple 
refreshments  concluded  a  most  agreeable  occasion.  It  did 
me  good  to  be  with  them. 

My  discriminating  wife  declares  that  the  sundaes  of  Ma- 
nila are  very  good.  Indeed,  for  months  we  have  sometimes 
been  favored  with  excellent  ice-cream  made  from  condensed 
cream.  Milk  frorp  the  "iron  cow"  is  not  bad. 

This  morning  I  addressed  the  high  school  on  "Interna- 
tional Peace".  The  student  body  constituted  600  young  people 
and,  as  usual,  they  manifested  intense  interest.  The  Fili- 
pino audiences  are  more  emotional  and  applaud  much  more 
easily  than  do  those  of  China.  A  curious  indication  of  the 
national  temperament  was  manifested  when  I  happened  to 
refer  to  the  sufferings  of  women  in  times  of  war.  About 
half  the  students  looked  very  sober,  but  the  rest  ot  them 
giggled.  At  the  conclusion  of  the  lecture  one  of  the  audi- 
ence remarked  upon  the  different  mental  attitude  of  many 
Filipinos  toward  trouble  from  that  of  Americans.  For  in- 
stance, a  young  person  will,  with  smiles,  announce  that 
he  or  she  has  just  lost  a  parent  by  death.  A  teacher  in 
one  of  the  schools  of  Manila  told  me  recently  that  when 
she  was  going  over  a  lesson  she  spoke  of  how  Ghazan  Khan 
had  some  of  his  enemies  thrown  into  a  caldron  of  boiling  oil. 
Immediately  the  whole  class  laughed  outright.  She  asked, 
"Why  do  you  laugh  ?  Would  you  like  to  be  thrown  into  boil- 


94  A  QUAKER  DIARY  IN  THE  ORIENT. 

ing  oil?"  They  responded,  "No."  At  the  same  time  the 
thought  of  suffering  amused  them  very  much. 

Our  intercourse  with  the  educators  of  Manila  has  deeply 
impressed  me  with  the  feeling  that  whilst  many  of  them  are 
not  church  people,  or  identified  with  the  missionary  move- 
ment, they  are  at  the  same  time  animated  by  the  most  sin- 
cere interest  in  the  moral  and  even  religious  advancement  of 
the  students  under  their  control.  The  true  missionary  spirit 
is  in  some  respects  discovered  in  many  of  these  teachers,  and 
they  gladly  welcome  the  aid  of  outside  workers  who  appeal 
to  the  better  emotions  of  the  heart.  Some  of  them  have 
warmly  thanked  me  for  my  public  advocacy  of  the  religion 
of  Christ  as  the  hope  of  humanity.  They  tell  me  that  God, 
and  trust  in  Him,  are  too  little  spoken  of  in  the  schools  of 
the  Philippines,  as,  unfortunately,  is  the  case  in  those  of  the 
home-land.  These  men  are  no  doubt  correct. 

We  go  from  place  to  place  in  "calessas,"  which  are  peculiar 
to  this  country.  They  are  much  like  old-fashioned  chaises, 
and  have  broad  seats  between  the  two  big  wheels,  whilst  the 
drivers  sit  on  little  seats  in  front,  close  to  the  dashers. 
Sturdy  ponies  pull  these  vehicles.  It  is  impossible  to  walk 
much  in  this  climate. 

We  see  United  States  army  and  navy  men  patronizing 
these  calessas  very  much.  By  the  way,  a  few  days  ago  a 
well-known  man  in  Manila — whose  name  is  nowhere  men- 
tioned in  this  diary — gave  me  an  interesting  description  of 
how  excitement  reigned  among  the  officers  of  the  army  and 
navy  one  year  ago,  when  our  country  was  so  close  to  war 
with  Mexico.  My  informant  stated  that  some  of  these  pub- 
lic servants  were  heard  to  say,  "Now,  we  will  have  promo- 
tion/' or  "Now  we  will  have  a  chance  to  get  better  pay." 
But  when  their  hopes  of  advancement  were  destroyed  by  the 
peaceful  attitude  of  the  Washington  Government,  they  were 
very  bitter  in  denouncing  President  Wilson  for  refusing  to 
embark  our  country  into  war  with  Mexico.  Men  in  the 
army  or  navy  often  include  most  attractive  personalities,  but 
professionalism  is  naturally  strong  among  them.  Does  this 
bode  ill  for  the  democracy  of  America? 


XII. 
SOUTHWARD  BOUND. 

Second  Month  18. 

At  12:15  noon  to-day  we  left  the  pier  at  Manila  on  the 
beautiful  Japanese  steamship  Hitachi  Maru  for  Australia. 
Our  kind  friends,  Wm.  T.  Hilles  and  wife,  came  down  to  see 
us  off. 

Probably  75  attenders  at  the  Union  Church  service  last 
night  seemed  glad  to  hear  an  address  on  the  relation  of  the 
church  to  militarism.  At  the  conclusion  of  the  meeting  a 
few  questions  were  asked  regarding  the  present  war.  I 
never  encourage  discussion  on  this  subject — there  are  too 
many  emotions  and  prejudices  represented  in  a  mixed  audi- 
ence to  make  it  helpful.  As  we  were  separating,  a  few  men 
encouraged  me  by  expressing  their  pleasure  because  of  "the 
spiritual  note  to  the  address."  One  young  man,  dressed  in 
the  uniform  of  the  United  States  navy,  came  forward,  and 
was  evidently  laboring  under  much  excitement,  as  he  pro- 
tested that  the  great  European  war  was  necessary.  Before 
we  parted  he  said,  "I  have  just  two  months  more  in  the 
navy — then  I  go  home."  I  asked  where  he  came  from. 
"Iowa,"  he  responded.  "A  great  State,"  said  I ;  "they  grow 
fine  men  in  Iowa."  "Yes,"  he  replied,  "and  I  will  be  back 
in  the  navy  inside  of  a  year  in  the  war."  I  asked,  "What 
war?"  He  exclaimed,  "In  a  war  the  United  States  will 
have.  We  will  be  at  war  inside  of  a  year."  Then  with  an 
expression  of  disgust  he  added,  "We  would  have  been  at  war 
before  this  if  it  had  not  been  for  Wilson.  He  is  afraid," 
laying  great  emphasis  on  the  word  "afraid".  I  told  him 
that  the  people  of  American  generally  thought  that  Presi- 
dent Wilson  had  manifested  great  bravery,  and  advised  this 
young  fire-eater  to  "get  into  God's  eternal  quiet."  His  lip 
quivered,  and  he  understood  what  I  meant.  So  much  for 
our  peace-loving  navy  which  we  are  soberly  told  desires  new 


96  A  QUAKER  DIARY  IN  THE  ORIENT. 

guns  and  battleships  only  that  we  may  enjoy  peace  with  the 
rest  of  the  world ! 

I  regretted  not  seeing  more  of  Bishop  Brent,  who  was  ab- 
sent from  Manila,  but  returned  in  time  for  us  to  call  the 
day  before  sailing.  He  is  a  power  in  the  Philippines.  It 
was  a  pleasure  to  listen  to  his  presentation  of  personal  con- 
viction as  he  conducted  us  through  the  beautiful  garden  of 
the  Episcopal  residence.  All  through  the  Orient  I  have  seen 
that  whilst  there  is  naturally  a  great  difference  in  Christian 
laborers,  some  of  God's  best  workmen  have  been  chosen  and 
sent  by  Him  into  the  foreign  field. 

Manila  has  treated  us  very  well.  I  landed  there  eleven 
da>s  ago  suffering  so  much  with  neuralgia  in  the  stomach 
that  I  was  afraid  the  port  quarantine  doctor  would  see  my 
distress  as  I  was  compelled  to  stand  in  line  for  examination 
and  that  he  would  mistake  my  trouble  for  some  disease 
which  would  impel  him  to  refuse  permission  to  the  ship's 
company  to  land.  Anyhow,  I  got  on  land,  and  the  dry  air, 
even  if  hot,  has  wonderfully  benefited  me.  Unexpected  op- 
portunities for  work  have  developed.  I  have  actually  been 
able  to  play  the  tourist  a  little  and  see  some  of  the  beauties 
of  this  tropical  land.  So  we  leave  the  broad  streets  of  new 
Manila  with  its  American  improvements,  and  the  charming 
old  architecture  of  the  Spanish  regime,  with  regret.  Our 
hearts  are  afresh  filled  with  gratitude  to  God  because  of  His 
mercies  to  us. 

The  revolutionary  talk,  and  efforts,  in  the  Philippines  at 
the  present  time  is  creating  apprehension  in  some  quarters 
and  is  treated  with  contempt  in  others.  It  seems  strange 
just  at  the  moment  when  the  Washington  Government  is 
endeavoring  to  grant  larger  liberty  to  the  people  of  the  isl- 
ands that  efforts  to  promote  insurrections  should  be  discov- 
ered. On  the  face  of  it  there  would  seem  reason  for  think- 
ing that  these  little  revolts  are  instigated  by  mercenary  men 
who  do  not  wish  their  present  influence  diminished,  and  who 
desire  to  prove  at  this  juncture  the  political  irresponsibility 
of  the  Filipinos.  On  the  other  hand,  even  if  such  be  the 
case,  I  very  much  question  if  the  Filipinos  will,  for  a  genera- 
tion, be  able  to  govern  themselves.  Too  few  of  them  have 


SOUTHWARD  BOUND.  97 

the  education,  ideals,  or  common  dialect,  or  the  political  poise 
and  temperament  to  successfully  continue  the  work  that  has 
been  carried  on  by  our  country.  We  have  done  a  few~rml- 
lions  of  Filipinos  much  service,  particularly  with  respect  to 
education  and  developing  their  cities.  But  I  feel  that  we 
have  impaired  the  ideals  of  one  hundred  millions  of  our  own 
people  by  holding  colonies,  at  first  against  their  will,  and, 
subsequently,  subjecting  them  by  processes  of  force  which 
our  own  country  resented  being  applied  to  itself  in  the  be- 
ginning of  its  career.  Their  civil  administration  does  not 
cost  the  United  States  any  financial  outlay.  But  unhappily 
our  control  of  them  affords  an  excuse  to  the  military  party 
in  the  United  States  to  advocate  a  big  navy,  wherewith  to 
presumably  protect  them,  and  this  carries  with  it  a  huge 
national  expenditure  and  the  development  of  a  system  and 
military  aristocracy  which  may  yet  become  a  menace  to 
the  republic. 

Second  Month  20. 

Our  ship  called  at  Zamboanga  to-day.  It  is  at  the  south- 
ern corner  of  the  Philippine  group.  We  had  just  one  hour 
ashore.  It  is  a  beautiful  little  city.  Close  by  the  landing 
are  the  custom  house,  Governor's  residence,  treasury  and 
postoffice,  all  in  a  lovely  setting  of  flowers  and  palms.  We 
went  up  to  the  Moro  part  of  the  town,  where  were  to  be  seen 
the  gaily  attired  Moros,  with  their  brilliant  head-dresses  or 
fezs.  Here  we  took  a  few  snap-shots  and  then  rushed  to 
the  boatlanding.  Soon  thereafter  the  Hitachi  Maru  bore  us 
away  to  the  sunny  southern  seas. 

The  past  two  days  have  been  largely  engaged  in  revising 
the  great  post  of  thirty-three  letters  and  many  other  pack- 
ages that  awaited  us  when  we  boarded  our  ship  at  Manila. 
It  is  with  the  barbarian's  joy  I  observed  that  a  few  of  our 
most  cultured  correspondents  make  mistakes  in  spelling,  for 
I  am  myself  a  terrible  speller.  They  write  Manila  with  two 
Ps,  and  Philippines  with  two  Ps  and  one  p,  so  for  just  once  in 
my  life  I  excell  them  in  spelling. 

Second  Month  22. 

Last  night  we  passed  the  equator  at  half  past  one  o'clock. 
My  wife  and  I  went  out  on  deck  later  in  the  morning,  and 


98  A  QUAKER  DIARY  IN  THE  ORIENT. 

saw  the  creamy  foam  speed  by  the  ship  beneath  us,  and 
watched  the  tropical  glory  of  the  stars  above.  One  magnifi- 
cent planet  reflected  its  marvelous  light  in  the  tossing  waters 
—a  broad  band  of  sun  reflecting  silver  from  the  horizon  to 
our  feet.  See  what  one  of  the  smallest  stars  can  do!  As 
for  the  firmament,  I  remember  that  it  is  written  of  the  Cre- 
ator: 

He  counteth  the  number  of  the  stars, 
He  calleth  them  all  by  name ; 
Great  is  our  Lord  and  mighty  in  power, 
His  understanding  is  infinite. 

-(Psalms  147:4-5) 

As  we  leave  the  Orient,  the  faithfulness  of  the  Christian 
workers  in  that  part  of  the  world  stands  out  as  a  ray  of 
living  light  against  a  background  of  danger  and  darkness. 
The  missionaries  are  the  hope  of  China  and  Japan.  A  non- 
Christian  civilization  in  those  countries  can  not  attain  to  the 
height  of  a  Christian  civilization  and  will  be  but  an  imitation 
of  the  latter.  A  genuine  belief  in  Christ  and  resulting  obe- 
dience to  the  moral  code  that  He  enjoined  can  make  the  only 
sure  basis  for  spiritual  and  material  prosperity.  The  mis- 
sionaries are  the  pioneers  of  civilization — and  international 
trade,  biblical  teaching,  and  domestic  happiness  follow  in 
their  wake.  Whilst  confronted  with  difficult  problems,  fre- 
quently separated  from  their  children  and  denied  many  of 
the  privileges  of  the  home  land,  they  yet  are  the  happiest 
of  women  and  men.  I  can  not  but  extol  the  courage  and 
faith  with  which  they  carry  the  glad  tidings,  and  physical 
and  medical  assistance,  to  these  almost  Christless  nations 
abroad. 

Associated  with  them  are  the  Y.  M.  C.  A.  workers.  Their 
Bible  and  industrial  classes,  and  lectures  on  religious  and 
moral  questions,  attract  the  attendance  of  many  non-Chris- 
tian students,  merchants  and  clerks,  a  large  part  of  whom 
ultimately  find  membership  in  the  churches.  The  attend- 
ance at  these  classes  has  of  late,  in  those  Y.  M.  C.  A.'s  where 
spiritual  work  is  emphasized,  been  rapidly  increasing.  I 
have  noted  that  in  those  cities  where  less  attention  is  paid  to 


IN  THE  HEART  OF  MANILA. 


ONE  OF  THE  OLD  GATES  OF  MANILA. 


SOUTHWARD  BOUND.  99 

religious  work  in  the  Y.  M.  C.  A.'s  of  the  Orient  the  mem- 
bership is  less  and  enthusiasm  lags.  It  is  truly  the  case,  as 
a  prominent  secretary  recently  wrote  me,  that  " thousands 
realize  as  never  before  that  sterling  character  is  China's 
greatest  need,  and  that  the  power  of  Christ  is  the  only  thing 
that  can  enable  us  to  attain  it."  I  can  in  this  little  diary 
bear  witness  to  the  physical  and  spiritual  labor  poured  out 
upon  the  people  of  the  Orient  by  men  and  women  connected 
with  the  Y.  M.  C.  A.'s  who,  for  the  love  of  Christ,  have  uti- 
lized all  the  financial  and  spiritual  forces  at  their  command 
on  behalf  of  the  young  men  of  the  Far  East.  These  young 
people  will  before  many  years  control  the  destinies  of  their 
respective  countries.  The  influence  for  good  exercised  upon 
them  by  the  Y.  M.  C.  A.'s,  and  through  them  to  very  many 
more,  can  never  be  estimated. 

Second  Month  26. 

We  went  ashore  one  hour  at  Thursday  Island  to-day. 
Now  we  approach  Australia.  About  one  year  ago  I  sent 
word  to  my  friends  in  Philadelphia  that  I  believed  that  work 
on  behalf  of  my  Savior  was  required  of  me  in  the  Far  East 
and  in  some  portions  of  Australasia,  but  that  I  could  not  de- 
fine its  anticipated  nature  or  extent.  As  the  time  for  enter- 
ing into  it  approached  I  could  only  ignore  the  war  and  inform 
my  friend,  W.  B.  Harvey,  that  I  felt  we  should  proceed  to 
Japan  as  originally  intended.  We  have  had  a  good  deal  of 
the  gospel  service  that  we  had  expected  in  connection  with 
the  trip,  and  in  addition  I  have  had  the  burden  connected 
with  the  peace  work,  which,  one  year  ago,  was  not  contem- 
plated. The  numerous  conferences,  addresses  and  much 
writing  associated  with  the  peace  question  have  been  absorb- 
ing, but  many  of  these  occasions  have  been  times  when  the 
Divine  Power  was  present.  [I  dare  not,  at  this  date,  differ- 
entiate between  gospel  and  peace  work.]  In  all  I  trust  that 
I  have  been  led  by  Him — all  helps  to  extend  His  imperishable 
Kingdom. 

Second  Month  28. 

Since  leaving  Thursday  Island  my  wife  and  I  have  had  our 
first  experience  in  many  years  of  travel  of  being  insulted 


100  A  QUAKER  DIARY  IN  THE  ORIENT. 

by  men  and  women  simply  because  we  are  Americans. 
Even  the  Japanese  everywhere  had  treated  us  with  the 
greatest  courtesy,  although  we  were  in  their  country  at  a 
time  when  it  was  seething  with  resentment  based  on  past 
and  apprehended  anti-Japanese  legislation  in  California. 
Not  once  while  in  Japan  did  I  hear  a  word  of  discourtesy 
or  reproach  regarding  Germany,  with  which  country  Japan 
was  at  war.  The  Japanese  are  non-Christians!  Now  we 
are  among  "Christians."  The  newspapers  of  Australia, 
brought  aboard  at  Thursday  Island,  contained  false  "infor- 
mation" and  insulting  comments  regarding  the  United 
States,  growing  out  of  the  difficulties  involved  in  the  neutral 
position  of  our  country.  Our  fellow-passengers  were  much 
excited  and  have  been  very  rude  toward  us.  This  is  a  most 
extraordinary  position  to  assume  by  our  Australian  friends, 
as  the  sympathy  in  America  during  the  war  has  been  almost 
altogether  with  England.  It  is  bad  policy  to  insult  your 
friends.  Our  personal  experiences  have  been  exceedingly 
unpleasant  the  past  few  days.  The  psychological  and  moral 
lapses  developing  from  the  hatreds  and  sins  of  war  make 
men  and  women  do  and  say  things  that  they  would  certainly 
be  ashamed  of  in  their  sober  moments. 

Under  these  annoying  circumstances  I  felt  we  should  have 
a  Friends'  meeting  for  worship  on  the  ship  to-day.  W.  B. 
Harvey  heartily  joined  in  the  suggestion.  All  the  passen- 
gers absented  themselves,  except  a  man  and  his  son  who 
sit  opposite  us  at  meals,  and  the  Captain,  a  Japanese  Shinto- 
ist.  After  a  period  of  silent  devotion,  I,  in  a  simple  way, 
spoke  of  Christ.  At  the  conclusion  of  our  little  service  the 
Captain  invited  us  to  his  room  to  show  us  pictures,  and  re- 
galed the  minute  ex-congregation  with  lemonade.  This  I 
could  not  but  recognize  was  his  courteous  method  of  express- 
ing sympathy-for  us. 

Third  Month  1. 

We  called  at  Townsville  to-day.  Whilst  speeding  in  the 
tender  towards  the  wharf,  I  glanced  over  my  clothing  and 
recalled  that  it  represented  the  cosmopolitan  life  I  have  led 
for  many  years.  My  hat  was  bought  in  San  Jose,  Califor- 
nia ;  its  band  in  Hongkong ;  collar  in  Philadelphia ;  underwear 


SOUTHWARD  BOUND.  \  \  \,\  ;*j  '.  J;0i 

in  Redlands;  duck  suit — coat  and  trousers — in  Porto  Rico; 
negligee  shirt  in  London ;  stockings  in  Philadelphia ;  shoes  in 
Oakland,  and  shoe-strings  in  Peking,  China.  Where~~iKe 
handkerchief  cajne  from  I  could  not  remember,  but  know 
that  these  useful  articles  generally  appear  at  the  holiday 
season ! 

Third  Month  4. 

At  the  Brisbane  customs  house  we  had  the  unique  experi- 
ence of  having  two  young  sailors  with  dirty  hands  invading 
almost  every  corner  of  our  luggage,  opening  little  boxes  or 
laboriously  investigating  the  most  sacred  of  our  personal 
effects.  The  results  were  both  ridiculous  and  exasperating. 
One  of  them  advised  us  to  not  show  our  United  States  flags, 
which  were  in  the  trays  of  our  steamer  trunks,  "around 
here."  Then  our  belongings  were  trundled  across  weeds 
and  lifted  over  rails  to  the  luggage  van. 

Upon  arriving  at  the  Brisbane  pier  early  in  the  morning, 
whilst  my  wife  was  alone  in  her  cabin,  dressing,  an  officer 
representing  the  customs  demanded  entrance,  and  went 
through  the  formality  of  examination  lest  any  Chinamen  be 
secreted  there.  Invasion  of  the  privacy  of  first-class,  or 
any  other  accommodation,  by  an  officer  of  the  colony  under 
such  circumstances  need  not  be  commented  upon.  This  was 
vastly  different  from  any  of  our  Oriental  experiences,  even 
where  we  have  necessarily  been  under  surveillance  grow- 
ing out  of  the  present  war. 

We  have  had  a  most  agreeable  voyage  of  two  weeks'  dur- 
ation. The  Japanese  certainly  understand  how  to  organize 
and  maintain  a  first-class  service  on  the  sea.  With  our  leav- 
ing the  good  Japanese  ship  and  landing  on  the  pier  at 
Brisbane,  Australia,  our  Oriental  experiences  have  termi- 
nated. God  has  been  kind  to  us.  His  great  goodness  and 
transcendent  mercy  have  followed  us  from  place  to  place. 
I  feel  that  I  have  acquired  much  more  from  those  among 
whom  our  lot  has  been  cast  than  I  have  been  a'ole  to  give 
them  in  return. 

THE  END. 


LD2lA-60m-3/70 

(N5382slO)476-A-32 


320981 - 


UNIVERSITY  OF  CALIFORNIA  LIBRARY 


